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SAND, CHALK. Aug |
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SAND. Jul |
SAND, CHALK. |
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SAND, CHALK. Jul |
SAND, CHALK. Aug |
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SAND, CHALK. Jun-Aug |
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All world-wide classification codes consist of 3 digits, the first of which specifies the diameter of the fully developed bottom floret of the spike, thus:-
These corms make very big plants with flowers that are at least 5.5 inches (14-15 cms) across. They are very popular for backs of borders, displays in hotels and churches and for that special func-tion as well as for exhibition work. |
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IDIOT SIGHTING NO. 5
I was at the airport, checking in at the gate when an airport employee asked, 'Has anyone put anything in your baggage without your knowledge?' To which I replied, 'If it was without my knowledge, how would I know?' He smiled knowingly and nodded, 'That's why we ask.' Happened at Luton Airport |
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Ivydene Gardens Gladiolus Corm Gallery: |
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Gladiolus Flowerhead Height from Text Border |
Brown = 0-12 inches (0-30 cms) |
Blue = 12-24 inches (30-60 cms) |
Green = 24-36 inches (60-90 cms) |
Magenta = 36-48 inches (90-120 cms) |
Red = 48-60 inches (120-150 cms) |
Black = 60+ inches (150+ cms) |
Bulb Soil Moisture from Text Background |
Wet Soil |
Moist Soil |
Dry Soil |
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Flowering months range abreviates month to its first 3 letters (Apr-Jun is April, May and June). |
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GLADIOLUS CORM GALLERY PAGES FLORET DIAMETER FLOWERING SEASON SEED/CORM COLOUR BED PICTURES
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Click on Number in the Flower Colour Wheel below to link to that Gladiolus Flower Colour Page |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb European A-E, F-M, N-Z Galleries for those classified by The British Gladiolus Society, or Non-Classified Gallery. Nigel Coe from the British Gladioli Society has kindly let me use his photos. If a mail-order nursery from the UK is prepared to donate the use of their photos of the flower, foliage, overall plant, corm, flower arrangement, floret or award photo of any of their mail-order gladioli to this website, then more information can be provided with the existing gladioli from Europe and new ones added and compared. There are more than 600 Classified Code Gladioli in the list from the British Gladiolus Society and over 2500 in the classified list from the North American Gladiolus Council. This gallery and the other Gladioli galleries in this website were set up to detail and compare all those Gladioli. |
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7 Flower Colours per Month in Colour Wheel below in BULB, CORM, RHIZOME and TUBER GALLERY. Click on Black or White box in Colour of Month. |
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BULB, CORM, RHIZOME AND TUBER INDEX - There are over 700 bulbs in the bulb galleries. |
Besides the above Bulb Flower Colour Comparison Pages, you also have the following Comparison Pages:- |
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Gladiolus INDEX link to Corm Description Page |
Flower Colour is the Second |
Flowering Months Blue back-ground if I have found a current mail-order supplier in October 2015 |
FLORET DIAMETER - 1st digit of 3 digit code Description Width of bottom floret |
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Notation for Gladioli in UK Classification System following 3 digit code in the Flower Colour Column
Notation for Gladioli in USA Classification System following 3 digit code in the Flower Colour Column
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x |
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
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Not usually known for non-exhibition Gladioli |
Miniature |
Small |
Medium |
Large |
Giant |
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Unknown Width |
Less than 2.5 inches (6.25 cms) |
2.5-3.5 inches (6.25- 8.75 cms) |
3.5-4.5 inches (8.75- 11.25 cms) |
4.5-5.5 inches (11.25- 13.75 cms) |
Over 5.5 inches (13.75 cms) |
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White (Pale) - 500 EM |
June, July, August |
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Bright Red edged |
May, |
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Pink (Medium) - 444 EM |
June, July, August |
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Ivory White with Purpley-Brown centre |
August, September |
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Light Pink with dark |
May, June |
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Orange-Scarlet - |
June, July, August |
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June, July, |
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June, July, August, |
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Red (Pale) - 253 M |
August |
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June, July |
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Yellow (Pale) - 310 M |
August |
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Pink with Red blotch - 443 M |
June |
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Red (Pale) - 253 M |
August |
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July, August America |
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Red-Brown - 398 E |
June, July, |
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Vermilion Red, White vain - |
August |
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Green (Medium) - |
June, July, August |
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Yellow (Medium) - |
July, August |
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Lavender (Light) - |
September |
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Pink with Yellow throat - 445 E |
July |
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Yellow (Light) - 312 M |
August |
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Golden-Yellow - 416 LM |
September, October |
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Salmon-Pink with White throat - 445 M |
August |
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Sky-Blue - 482 LM |
August |
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Rose (Deep) - 267 EM |
August |
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Red (Deep) - 256 M |
August |
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Red with White Arrows - 356 M |
August |
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Pale Pink with deep pink markings |
May, June, July, August, September |
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Yellow (Medium) - |
July |
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Salmon-Pink - |
August |
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Scarlet-Red - 253 M |
August |
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Orange - 224 M |
August |
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Rose flecked with Gold - 263 M |
July, August, |
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Soft Toffee-Brown - 294 M |
August
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Orangey-Red - |
July, August |
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Lavender - 271 EM |
August |
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Creamy-White - |
August |
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Pink with White |
September |
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Lavender - 470 M |
August |
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Salmon - 433 EM |
August |
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White with Dark Pink markings - x01 |
June, July, August |
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Lavender-rose with Cerise blotch - 463 EM |
August |
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Rose - |
August |
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White - |
August |
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Salmon-Orange - 225 M |
August |
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Yellow - 314 M |
July, August |
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Soft Yellow, striped |
May, June, or October, November, December |
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Cream with Rose blotch on Yellow throat - 213 M |
August |
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Gladiolus in Autumn Bulb Gallery |
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Deep Magenta - |
June, July |
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Red and Yellow - |
July, August |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb American A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, XYZ Galleries for those registered with North American Gladiolus Council pre 2008 If Peeters Enterprises Gladiolus , Pleasant Valley Glads & Dahlias , Honker Flats or other mail-order nursery from America are prepared to donate the use of their photos of the flower, foliage, overall plant, corm, flower arrangement, floret or award photo of any of their mail-order gladioli to this website, then more information can be provided with the existing gladioli from America and new ones added and compared. |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb American A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, XYZ Galleries for those registered with North American Gladiolus Council in 2008 |
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Red - |
August |
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Pink - |
August |
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Orange - 425 M |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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White - |
August |
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Yellow - 311 LM |
July |
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Yellow - 413 M |
July |
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Lavender - 375 EM |
July |
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Rose - 365 EM |
July |
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Rose - 265 E |
July |
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Lavender - 473 M |
July |
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Rose - 267 EM |
July |
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White - 200 M |
July |
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Yellow - 215 EM |
July |
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Rose - 466 M |
July |
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Smokies - 295 E |
July |
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Yellow - 313 LM |
July |
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Rose - 465 M |
July |
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Lavender - 474 M |
July |
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Violet - 584 LM |
July |
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Orange - 325 M |
July |
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Orange - 424 EM |
July |
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Salmon - 235 M |
July |
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Orange - 521 LM |
July |
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Rose - 465 M |
July |
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Lavender - 473 M |
July |
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Yellow - 315 LM |
August |
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Yellow - 313 VE |
July |
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Yellow - 111 M |
July |
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Yellow - 215 M |
July |
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White - 100 VE |
July |
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Pink - 243 EM |
July |
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Rose - 365 M |
July |
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Pink - 541 LM |
July |
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Blue - 485 LM |
July |
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Rose - 363 M |
July |
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Salmon - 335 M |
July |
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Lavender - 171 VE |
July |
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Orange - 127 EM |
July |
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Lavender - 371 L |
August |
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Pink - |
July |
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Salmon - 435 M |
July |
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Lavender - 373 LM |
August |
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Yellow - 314 M |
July |
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Salmon - 435 LM |
July |
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Rose - 365 VE |
July |
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Red - 453 M |
July |
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Red - 354 EM |
July |
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Pink - 345 EM |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Purple - 278 E |
July |
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'Rozovaya Fantazia |
Rose - 462 L |
August |
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Salmon - 333 M |
July |
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Lavender - 475 LM |
August |
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Salmon - 435 LM |
July |
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'Slastena |
Smokies - 493 LM |
July |
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Green - 103 VE |
July |
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White - |
July |
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Pink - |
July |
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Orange - 525 LM |
August |
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Pink - |
August |
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Orange - 426 M |
July |
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'Vosmoe Marta |
Rose - |
August |
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Rose - |
August |
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Brown - 298 EM |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb American A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, XYZ Galleries for those registered with North American Gladiolus Council in 2009 |
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Purple - 379 LM |
August |
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Red - 454 LM |
July |
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White - 201 M |
July |
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Orange - 423 E |
July |
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Rose - 267AA M |
July |
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Lavender - 373 M |
July |
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Rose - 265 EM |
July |
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Orange - 227 EM |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Lavender - 175 M |
July |
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Yellow - 112 E |
July |
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Pink - |
July |
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Yellow - 213 EM |
July |
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Lavender - 473 M |
July |
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Salmon - 235AA EM |
July |
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Yellow - 314 M |
July |
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Salmon - 435 M |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Yellow - 515AA EM |
July |
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White - |
July |
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Purple - 279 EM |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Orange - 222 M |
July |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb American A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, XYZ Galleries for those registered with North American Gladiolus Council in 2010 |
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Red - 252 M |
July |
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Pink - |
July |
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Pale Blue - 483 EM |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Salmon - 233AA M |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Yellow - 313 M |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Lavender - 273 EM |
July |
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Orange - 423 LM |
August |
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Salmon - 431 EM |
July |
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Pink - |
August |
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Lavender - 273 E |
July |
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Orange - 225 M |
July |
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Rose - |
August |
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Red - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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White - |
August |
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Orange - 225 M |
July |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb American A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, XYZ Galleries for those registered with North American Gladiolus Council in 2011 |
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Yellow - 412 M |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Salmon - 433 M |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Pink - |
July |
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Yellow - 210 M |
July |
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Rose - 463AAS EM |
July |
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Orange - 223 EM |
July |
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Pink - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Yellow - 315AA M |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Orange - 425 M |
July |
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Gladiolus in Gladiolus Bulb American A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, XYZ Galleries for those registered with North American Gladiolus Council in 2012 |
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Rose - |
July |
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Salmon - 433 M |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Salmon - 235 M |
July |
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Orange - 424 AAS LM |
August |
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Rose - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Salmon - 433 AAS M |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Salmon - 435 M |
July |
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Pink - |
July |
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Yellow - 413 M |
July |
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Salmon - 333 L |
August |
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Red - |
July |
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Yellow - 413 LM |
July |
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Orange - 425 EM |
July |
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Purple - 278 EM |
July |
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Lavender 477 EM |
July |
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White - |
July |
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Lavender - 475 M |
July |
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Red - |
July |
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Rose - |
July |
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Orange - 227 E |
July |
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Lavender - 377 M |
July |
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Black - |
July |
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Lavender - 475 M |
July |
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Antanas Markevieius from Lithuania has kindly allowed me to use the photos from www.geles.biz, where he sells some Russian varieties as well as his own. If you want to buy the corms to grow in Lithuania or for export to your garden in your country, please contact him prior to middle of November each year. Lithuania became independent from Russia on 11 March 1990. The gladioli that he has registered with the North American Gladiolus Council are listed and linked to his website in the Cultivar from Russia / Lithuania Page. He has very kindly stated that he will provide the flowerhead height of his gladioli, so that I can create the relevant Gladiolus Description Page and then add them to the comparison pages and then they will appear in the next row. |
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Gladiolus are grown and hybridised in Australia and when a mail-order nursery donates the photos and cultivation details together with the specific climactic conditions appertaining to the gladioli that they have hybridised, then those can be added to the row below, together with their Gladiolus Plant Description Pages and comparison pages for those that they can export to you for your own garden in Australia and perhaps other countries. |
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The Integrated Sustainable Energy and Ecological Development Association (INSEDA) is the national India organization formed by the grassroots NGOs who had been involved in the promotion of renewable energy, ecological and natural resources development programmes with special focus on the implementation of biogas development in rural areas of the country, since 1980. They have hybridised some new varieties - see Gladiolus Bulb Site Map. These Gladiolus are grown in India and if a mail-order nursery donates the photos and cultivation details together with the specific climactic conditions appertaining to the gladioli that they have hybridised, then those can be added to the row below, together with their Gladiolus Plant Description Pages and comparison pages for those that they can export to you for your own garden. |
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Disc - Many daisies are easy to grow and very free-flowering. The typical colour contrast between the disc and the surrounding rays creates a lively effect 
Floret is a small or reduced flower, especially 1 of a cluster in a composite flower - such as the florets of a sunflower (The very small flowers in a ring inside the yellow petals of 
UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
|
40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
|
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
|
Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
|
(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
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Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
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Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
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Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
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Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
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Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
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Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
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Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
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Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
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Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
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Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
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Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
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Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
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Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
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Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
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Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
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Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations
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From the Ivydene Gardens Box to Crowberry Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
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The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
FORCED INDOOR BULBS in Window Box Gardens. |
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Theme |
Plants |
Comments |
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Thyme |
Thymus praecox, wild thyme Thymus pulegioides Thymus leucotrichus Thymus citriodorus |
Thymes make a very fragrant, easy to care for windowbox, and an excellent choice for windy sites. The flower colour will be pinky/purple, and you can eat the leaves if your air is not too polluted. Try to get one variegated thyme to add a little colour when there are no flowers. |
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Herb |
Sage, mint, chives, thyme, rosemary |
Get the plants from the herb section of the supermarket, so you can eat the leaves. Do not include basil as it need greater fertility than the others. Pot the rosemary up separately if it grows too large. |
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Mints |
Mentha longifolia, horse mint Mentha spicata, spear mint Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal Mentha piperita, peppermint Mentha suaveolens, apple mint |
Mints are fairly fast growers, so you could start this box with seed. They are thugs, though, and will very soon be fighting for space. So you will either have to thin and cut back or else you will end up with one species - the strongest. The very best mint tea I ever had was in Marrakesh. A glass full of fresh mint was placed in front of me, and boiling water was poured into it. Then I was given a cube of sugar to hold between my teeth while I sipped the tea. Plant this box and you can have mint tea for months. |
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Heather |
Too many to list See Heather Shrub gallery |
For year-round colour try to plant varieties that flower at different times of year. Heather requires acid soils, so fertilise with an ericaceous fertilser, and plant in ericaceous compost. Cut back after flowering and remove the cuttings. It is best to buy plants as heather is slow growing. |
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Blue |
Ajuga reptans, bugle Endymion non-scriptus, bluebell Myosotis spp., forget-me-not Pentaglottis sempervirens, alkanet |
This will give you flowers from March till July. The bluebells should be bought as bulbs, as seed will take a few years to flower. The others can be started from seed. |
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Yellow |
Anthyllis vulneraria, kidney vetch Geum urbanum, wood avens Lathryus pratensis, meadow vetchling Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lotus corniculatus, birdsfoot trefoil Primula vulgaris, primrose Ranunculus acris, meadow buttercup Ranunculus ficaria, lesser celandine |
These will give you flowers from May to October, and if you include the primrose, from February. Try to include a vetch as they can climb or trail so occupy the space that other plants can't. All can be grown from seed. |
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White |
Trifolium repens, white clover Bellis perennis, daisy Digitalis purpurea alba, white foxglove Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette |
All can be grown from seed. The clover and daisy will have to be cut back as they will take over. The clover roots add nitrogen to the soil. The mignonette flower doesn't look very special, but the fragrance is wonderful, and the alyssum smells of honey. |
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Pink |
Lychnis flos-cucli, ragged robin Scabiosa columbaria, small scabious Symphytum officinale, comfrey |
The comfrey will try to take over. Its leaves make an excellent fertiliser, and are very good on the compost heap, though windowbox gardeners rarely have one. |
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Fragrant |
Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Alyssum maritimum Redsea odorata, mignonette Lathyrus odoratus, sweet pea |
The sweet pea will need twine or something to climb up, so is suitable if you have sliding windows or window that open inwards. You will be rewarded by a fragrant curtain every time you open your window. |
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Spring bulbs and late wildflowers |
Galanthus nivalis, snowdrop Narcissus pseudonarcissus, narcissius Crocus purpureus, crocus Cyclamen spp. |
The idea of this box is to maximize your space. The bulbs (cyclamen has a corm) will flower and do their stuff early in the year. After flowering cut the heads off as you don't want them making seed, but leave the leaves as they fatten up the bulbs to store energy for next year. The foliage of the wildflowers will hide the bulb leaves to some extent. Then the wildflowers take over and flower till autumn |
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Aster spp., Michaelmas daisy Linaria vulgaris, toadflax Lonicera spp., honeysuckle Succisa pratensis, devil's bit scabious Mentha pulgium, pennyroyal |
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Bee Garden in Europe or North America |
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden. Follow the links below to explore our show gardens, and when you visit, be sure to pick up a copy of our Wildlife Gardening Trail guide
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Ivydene Gardens Water Fern to Yew Wild Flower Families Gallery: |
Only Wildflowers detailed in the following Wildflower Colour Pages |
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White A-D |
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Flowering plants of |
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The 10,000 cultivars are classified into 3 major groups: they are Nanus, Primulinus and Grandiflorus. • Hybrids and cultivars in the group of Nanus bloom in early summer with two/three 22 to 35 cm spikes per corm, the spike each bearing 3 to 5 open flowers at a time. • Those in the group of Primulinus bloom in midsummer with a single very slender 30 to 60 cm stem per corm, the stem bears 20 buds with up to 7 open at a time. • Cultivars and hybrids from the Grandiflorus group bloom from late spring through autumn with as many as 28 buds on (usually) a single spike of usually 35 to 90 cm tall, dozen of flowers may be open at a time. Gladioli of the Grandiflorus group are classified further by flower size and color in an elaborate trinomial system, with first digit indicating size, the second indicating color and the third intensity of color. The largest Grandiflorus cultivars can get up to 1.7 metre tall, while some miniatures do not reach 90 cm in height. From the British Gladiolus Society:- "ALL ABOUT CLASSIFICATION OF GLADIOLUS. For anyone interested in the Gladiolus, and particularly for those of you interested in attending and competing in Gladiolus classes in shows, you should try and acquaint yourself with the world-wide classification codes. All codes consist of 3 digits, the first of which specifies the diameter of the fully developed bottom floret of the spike, thus:-
The second digit denotes colour (i.e. green, yellow, orange etc, 0-9) and the third digit denotes the "strength" or hue of that colour. Second digits may be (0) = Pale, (2) = Light, (4) = Medium, (6) = Deep and (8) = Very Deep. Notice that the third digits are all even numbers: even numbers indicate that the colour is without any conspicuous markings present, whereas by increasing the number by 1 to make it an odd number signifies that conspicuous markings are present. For example, Doris Darling 442 is a large flowered pale Pink bloom without distinctive markings whereas Pink Elegance 443 is a large flowered pale pink with a distinctive mark, in this case a white throat. The table below indicates how the second and third digits in the classification are used. So to summarize, all you need to do to become reasonably proficient at recognising Gladiolus codes is to learn the floret width codes (1-5, narrowest to widest) denoted by the first digit (see table above), and below, the second digit COLOUR codes (0-9) and the third digit COLOUR STRENGTH code (0-8). Don't forget that if the third code digit is an odd number it means that the floret has distinctive markings.
This can be followed by:-
For Gladiolus in The British Gladiolus Classification System, the following applies:-
Usually the number of days above from a May planting in the ground the flower will actually open all of its florets but those at the base need to be removed as they die otherwise they may start to set seed pods which will take energy from the florets higher up. Usually its about 14 days from the first floret opening to when the last is out on that flower spike" from Nigel Coe. For Gladiolus in The North American Gladiolus Council Classification System and in Russia, the following applies:-
from Irina of The First Acquaintance in Russia.
The corms can be started earlier in peat pots in frost-free conditions in a greenhouse before planting outside after the last Spring frost, if you want flowering earlier in the year. After this the Breeders Name and Year of Introduction, and three numbers (e.g. 8;23;30):-
Instead of the Fieldheight, which is the normal height used in comparison pages for all other plants, all the Gladioli are compared throughout all the comparison galleries using their Flowerhead size. Cultivation details are provided in the The British Gladiolus growing page." and the North Dakota State University with the U.S. Department of Agriculture article. |
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How to grow Gladioli from article in The Telegraph 15 February 2008 by Sarah Raven:- "All gladioli are easy to grow. As soon as the soil has warmed up in March or April, plant the corms 20cm (8in) deep; this is deeper than most books will tell you. I use a bulb planter but a long trowel or leek dibber will do. Secured deep in the ground, you are less likely to need a stake. Plant them about 15cm (6in) apart. If you have bought quite a few, don't plant them all at once. Stagger their planting and you will get a better succession of flowers. Gladioli need plenty of water to flower well. So, if you can, dig a trench and pile well-rotted manure into the base before planting. This will help feed the bulbs and will also retain water. On well-drained poorer soil, extra watering will be required. As soon as the flowers appear and until at least three weeks after flowering, apply a high-potash feed (like Tomarite or comfrey juice) every two weeks. This is essential on poorer soils where flowering will diminish with each successive season. It's always said you need to lift your gladioli - that, like dahlias, they'll be frosted if left in the ground. It's my fourth year of growing them at Perch Hill and I've never lifted them. I mulch them deeply with 6-7cm (2.5in) of mushroom compost to give them an insulating duvet over their heads in late autumn. You should be safe with this in the south of England and the western fringes of the British Isles, but in colder counties, grow them in a sheltered spot and lift them for the winter when the leaves turn yellow-brown. Lift them and snap the corms from the stems. Dust with sulphur and dry them out for a couple of weeks. Then snap the new corms from the old, discarding the old. The new must be kept dry and cold (but frost-free) until they are replanted. You can dig and divide the clumps every few years to select the best corms for replanting. Without this, the new cormlets forming will invade the space of the original corm and the nutrients will have to be shared. The risk is lots of foliage and no flower spikes." |
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Plant Combinations:- The Extension Bulletin 9 December, 1916 Cornell Extension Bulletin Published by the New York State College of Agriculture at Cornell University, Ithaca, New York Gladiolus Studies - I Botany, History and Evolution of the Gladiolus states:- "Unless used in masses, the plants are likely to appear rather spindling; but when properly planted, the bed of gladioli is one of the most showy features of summer or autumn. The beds so used need not be for gladioi exclusively, but may have some annuals or perennials growing with them. Good combinations result from planting early in the spring a bed of white Phlox Drummondii, and later using the gladiolus 'America' between the plants; or pink phlox and the gladiolus 'Rochester White' may be combined. Especially effective is the combination of gladiolus with the summer hyacinth - Galtonia hyacinthiis candicans, the tall spikes of white bloom and the bold foliage of the latter seeming especially harmonious. No better combination is available than that which results from the planting of some corms among irises, which have leaves in perfect harmony with the gladiolus and which bloom in a widely separated season. The stately spikes are attractive when used in large clumps of one variety among shrubbery. Care must be taken not to place the plants within the detrimental influence of large tree roots or in too much shade. Gardeners frequently start certain good varieties in boxes or pots, and, when in full growth, transplant them in clumps to places in the border where a bit of color is needed after some other plants have failed. Miss Andres advocates combining columbines, petunias, and gladioli, not only because of their colors, but also, and mainly, for the excellent succession of bloom provided. Bold masses of Gladiolus primulinus hybrids are extremely effective, since their various colors blend so well. 'Blue Jay' and 'Baron Joseph Hulot' are violet and blue varieties which harmonize well with yellow varieties, such as 'Golden King' or 'Sulphur King'. Excellent combinations have been made with roses and gladioli. The June-flowering roses are best for this purpose, since they are entirely out of season when the gladiolus is at its best." |
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The Extension Bulletin 9 December, 1916 Cornell Extension Bulletin Published by the New York State College of Agriculture at Cornell University, Ithaca, New York Gladiolus Studies - I Botany, History and Evolution of the Gladiolus states:- DEPTH OF PLANTING DIFFERS WITH THE SOIL TYPE It is seen that many of the growers consulted prefer a sandy loam. E. H. Cushman says that the gladiolus does equally well on any soil, if given the proper culture. The commercial grower, however, who must produce stock at a profit, will choose soil as nearly ideal as possible — in other words, a light loam.
FERTILIZERS AND THEIR USE The production of gladiolus corms is very analagous to the production of a crop of potatoes. A good standard special potato fertilizer is therefore recommended. Such a fertilizer will be rich in phosphoric acid and potash. The gladiolus is a rank grower and a gross feeder, and responds to any treatment that increases the available plant-food. Either manures or chemicals may be applied as a fertilizer, both of which are valuable in their way. The first kind, stable manure, is of prime importance, but each year it is getting more difficult to obtain this. When possible it is well to use cow, pig, sheep, or poultry manure, rather than that from the horse. It must be borne in mind that sheep manure and poultry manure are especially strong and cannot be applied too abundantly without danger of causing too great vegetative growth, watery corms, or perhaps even a burning of the whole plant. It is thought that the gladiolus is very susceptible to the presence of any manure in contact with its roots. All manure, then, should be thoroughly incorporated with the soil, rather than left in lumps. This is best accomplished by application in the autumn. All humus-making material produces acidity when rotting in the soil. This can be easily overcome, or neutralized, by the use of lime. B. C. Auten is emphatic in his denunciation of lime. He writes: " Two years' planting upon ground limestone nearly put me out of business." Cooper (1914 c) believes that it will be necessary to use lime "rather freely where heavy applications of stable manure are made or where green manure crops are plowed under, to prevent possible excessive acidity and fungoid or scab diseases." A method of soil treatment and enrichment is outlined by W. P. Wright substantially as follows in Popular Garden Flowers: In autumn remove the top soil and break up the subsoil, turning in a dressing of three inches of decayed manure. If the ground is very stiff, leaf mold and sand may be added. Leave the surface lumpy. In February, spread on a coat of wood ashes, with an additional quantity of bone flour, at the rate of three ounces per square yard, and fork it in. This operation will simultaneously reduce the lumps to small particles. H. H. Groff has used the same land for fifteen years, and the only fertilizer he has needed is stable manure and hardwood ashes applied in the autumn before plowing. Hardwood ashes are rich in potash and phosphoric acid as well as in calcium. B. C. Auten prefers dried blood and steamed bone, with a top-dressing of nitrate of soda and potassium sulfate or muriate. The fertilizer is applied in the seed drill at the bottom of the furrow. Steamed bone and bone meal are to be strongly advocated, since they possess the necessary phosphoric acid and potash. N. L. Crawford has used an application of five hundred pounds of potassium sulfate per acre at the time of planting, and from three to five hundred pounds more in July or August. L. M. Gage applies barnyard manure in the fall, and a complete potato fertilizer (4-7-10) in the drills at the time of planting. S. E. Spencer places a little sheep manure in the furrow at the time of planting, and works a chemical phosphate into the soil when the buds start. C. W. Brown has used seven cords of manure per acre in the late fall, plowing it under at once to kill the witch grass. C. Hoeg distributes hardwood ashes at planting, and nitrate of soda two or three times during the growing season. W. C. Bull, of Ramsgate, England, uses " stable dung dug in during the winter, and superphosphate of lime at the rate of a double handful per square yard, dusted over the surface of the soil immediately after planting." J. L. Moore uses hen manure and stable manure once in three years. Besides this, he sows a cover crop of rye after the bulbs are dug, and plows under the green growth in the spring. C. Betscher also seeds rye at the time of the last cultivation, the earlier the better. This he would, no doubt, plow under when in greatest growth and full of sap, for the green crop should not be allowed to get woody, thereby losing its greatest value as a humus maker. F. C. Thomanh has used, besides sheep manure and hardwood ashes, a great deal of soot. It seems impossible to account for the freedom from disease of his 'Rochester White' gladioli in any other way than by the probability that the soot prohibits the spread of the infection. Coleman (1914 b) writes: "We make our own fertilizer, so do not have to pay freight on ' filler.' A formula that has given us the best of satisfaction and that the Glads respond to, is represented by 50 per cent sulphate of potash, 25 per cent sulphate of ammonia and 25 per cent nitrate of soda, by weight." This is applied sparingly along the top of the row at planting.
TIME AND MANNER OF PLANTING When possible a succession of bloom should be planned, the corms being planted in lots every week or ten days until July | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||