Ivydene Gardens Photo Damage to Trees in Madeira 2:
Page 25 has photos of Damage to Trees in the Pavement of Funchal in Madeira from the
Madeira 12601 Folder
taken in January 2019 in Funchal of Madeira.

Photos taken by Chris Garnons-Williams using a digital camera in the original size and as a thumbnail.
These can used in the Public Domain for educational purposes in schools, or at home.

Row 1 has the Pass-Through Camera image of Thumbnail image named in Row 2
and is usually 4000 x 3000 pixels.

Row 2 has same image reduced to fit the image frame of 160 x 120 pixels as a
Passthrough Thumbnail to show all of the Camera Image. This image has been
reduced to 72 pixels per inch by Freeway before I stored it as a Passthrough image
for use both here (from August 2019) and as the image in
Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens A 1 Gallery.

Click on either image and drag to your desktop.
Then you can crop the Pass-Through Camera image to obtain the particular detail
that you require from that image, before using that cropped result in your endeavour.

Copying the pages and then clicking on the images to drag them may not work.

Item is
Tree 91 from pestana promenade to forum telephone post IMG 6021.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
Is this the same telephone wires as in Photo 6017 on Page 24 going through tree
foliage? Seems strange to have them twisted together. One would appear to go
down inside the metal support tube and the other appears to terminate at a box.

Item is
Tree 91 from pestana promenade to forum telephone wire through foliage IMG 6022.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
Whose job is it to report this telephone wire may be in danger of being interferred
with by tree foliage and to whom? Who is then responsible for doing something
about it? Who is responsible for keeping the record of what was done and where
is it to be kept and who has access to it? The same problems for tree foliage
interferring with street lights.

The wounded branch stump has created a large cavity in the trunk of this tree.
This requires urgent repair work using 1 of my solutions.

Item is
Tree 92 from pestana promenade to forum broken signpost tree in road IMG 6032.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
Was this a sign indicating hazard - tree in road?

Tree has overgrown concrete pavement, its kerb and the into the road. Its
roots are breaking up the tarmac. The lighter colour of tarmac indicates where
the tyres of the heavier traffic have compressed the tarmac. Because the lateral
roots are under this tarmac, then the continual pounding keeps where the traffic
is actually passing over in a compressed state, but where it does not the roots
are trying to spring back and that is causing the break-up of the tarmac, especially
within 2-3 inches (5-7.5 cms) of the trunk.
If you should happen to read pages 44-45 of the Spon's Landscape Handbook
Edited by Derek Lovejoy and Partners - Architects, Landscape Architects,
Planning Consultants Third Edition. Published in 1986 by E.& F.N. Spon Ltd
ISBN 0 419 13380 1 then you will note the following:-

"Tree root protection
At the depths od excavation required for roads and paths, backfilling with the
foundation material, e.g. sharp sand, should be carried out by hand, by placing
sufficient small material over the root to avoid its laceration when consolidation
by heavy equipment takes place.
At the greater depths of excavation required for kerbs and drainage installations,
roots of 50 mm diameter or more should be bridged. This should be done with a
beam or lintel, preferably of precast concrete, to protect the roots from
immediate damage and the pressure of consolidation.

3.2.2 TREE ROOTS AND BUILDINGS
This useful book 'Tree Roots and Buildings, Cutler, D.F. and Richardson, I.B.K.,
London, Construction Press, 1981" sets out the results of data collected mainly
between 1977 and 1979. Its main object was to test the existing and often
empirical knowledge on the relationship between trees and buildings, and to
give authoritative guidance on tree planting near new or existing buildings.
...
The booklet includes the following observations and advice resulting from
survey work.

• The maximum tree-to-damage distance in metres. Distance
  calculated for 90% of cases.
• Normal maximum height in shrinkable clay in urban areas.
• Proportion of cases of damage occuring within certain bands
  of distance from the tree species on shrinkable clay soils.
• Graph showing the reduction in percentage of cases of damage
  recorded as the distance of trees from buildings increases
  (for shrinkable clay soils).

These tables merit individual study, but a very general result covering
90% of cases can be given in terms of maximum tree-to-damage distance as:

• 18-20 metres - poplar, elm, oak and willow
• 12-15 metres - horse chestnut, ash, sycamore and maple
• 10-11 metres - beech, lime, plane and robinia
• 8-9.5 metres - birch, hawthorn and rowan.

The remainder of common species listed gave figures below 5 metres."

Item is
Tree 92 from pestana promenade to forum raised pavement IMG 6029.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
The view of the broken apart tarmac is easier to see in this photo of the same
tree, but from the other side of it. The roots have elevated the pavement.

You can also see how extremely close to the trunk the heavier traffic wheels
come to on the further side.

Item is
Tree 93 from pestana promenade to forum roots growing between pavers IMG 6033.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
Same problem as for Tree 92 except more extensive damage by the roots within the
road to the tarmac. Also needs the same precaste concrete beam or lintel over these
roots. The trunk is growing over the concrete pavers, and concrete kerb and uprooting others.

Item is
Tree 93 from pestana promenade to forum roots growing between pavers IMG 6034.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
Same tree as last photo, except showing it from the side where the traffic comes
from. The lighter grey of the tarmac extends almost to the tree, where the tree
roots have broken up a section of the tarmac - a section about 12 inches (30 cms)
in width has been replaced, but this is now breaking up as well. Precaste concrete
beams or lintels are required.

Item is
Tree 94 from pestana promenade to forum hollow trunk IMG 6035.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
NOW THERE IS NO NEED TO PANIC MR MANNERING - THE ROTTEN HOLE IN
THIS TRUNK IS CONTINUING TO ROT AND EVENTUALLY THE TREE WILL FALL
DOWN. BUT BEING IN MADEIRA, THEY ARE NOT WORRIED, SO WHY SHOULD
YOU BE?
THE FOLLOWING 2 PHOTOS SHOW THE ROT IN FURTHER DETAIL. SHOULD I
BE WORRIED FOR MY WIFE WHEN WE PASS THIS TREE ON A REGULAR BASIS -
SHE IS STANDING IN THE BACKGROUND HAVING WALKED PAST THIS TREE.

Item is
Tree 94 from pestana promenade to forum hollow trunk IMG 6036.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams

Item is
Tree 94 from pestana promenade to forum hollow trunk IMG 6038.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams

Item is
Tree 94 from pestana promenade to forum hollow trunk view next road section IMG 6042.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
Quite a weight of wood and foliage above this rotting trunk!!! I wonder if Madeira
has heard of fulcrums? The current fulcrum of this tree is this rotten part of the trunk -
can the weight above it be supported by this fulcum or will this fulcum fail?

Item is
Tree 95 from pestana promenade to forum hollow trunk IMG 6040.JPG
taken in January/February 2019 in Funchal, Madeira by Chris Garnons-Williams
So kind to continue to pour concrete round the trunk of this tree to prevent it
getting rainwater, nourishment or gaseous exchange in order to live!!!I did not
take another photo of this branch stump wound to see the depth of rot into the
trunk, but this tree needs my solutions to put it to rights. The callus that was
trying to repair this branch stump wound is rotting at the base and that may
be extensive as the black hole nearest the bottom of the photo may well link
up to the black hole above it and then to the black hole in the trunk.

I have copied the archived post below, because what is stated there is extremely important, since 99.99% of
gardeners in the UK totally ignore the fact that plants require humus and think that double-digging is beneficial
every year. That is why they are killing their soil and their plants do not grow well.

How Soil Works in the Category Archives: Flowering House Plants of Houseplantsguru. com:-

"Nature’s plan is to build up the humus year after year and this can only be done by organic matter. There is need
to replace and return that which has been taken out. The Chinese, who are the best gardeners, collect, ‘use’, and
return to the soil, every possible kind of waste, vegetable, animal and human. In over 4000 years of intensive
cultivation they still support more human beings per hectare than any other country in the world! On the other
hand in areas like the Middle West of the U.S.A. And the Regina Plain of Canada, where the Wheel of Life has not
been recognized, tens of thousands of hectares which once grew heavy crops are now useless, or practically so.

Every flower crop grown reduces the organic content of the ground. Every piece of work done helps to break down
the humus. The value of the soil in your garden, therefore, is not the mica particles or grains of sand. It lies in the
humus that the soil contains. Humus makes all the difference to successful gardening. Have plenty of humus
present and the soil is in good tilth. Humus is the organic colloid of the soil. It can store water, it can store plant
foods, it can help to keep the soil open. It can help to ensure the right aeration. It will give ideal insulation against
heat and cold.

Using Compost

Garden owners proposing to dig their land shallowly in preparation for flower growing, should realize the
importance of adding ample quantities of organic matter before they start. Composted farmyard manure, fine
wool shoddy, properly composted vegetable refuse, or hop manure should be added at the rate of one good
barrow-load to 10 m2 (12 sq yds) and in addition into the top 25 or 50 mm (1 or 2 in) of soil finely divided sedge
peat, non-acid in character should be raked in at about half a bucketful (9 litres) per square metre (2 gallons per
sq yd). This organic matter in the top few millimetres of soil gives the little roots a good start and so sends them
on to find the organic matter below.

It is when the organic content of the soil has been helped in this way, that the gardener dares to add plant foods
of an organic origin. These are usually applied on the surface of the ground and raked in. Fertilizers with an
organic base are particularly useful. Fish Manure may be applied at 105 to 140 g/m2 (3 oz to 4 oz per sq yd), or a
meat and bone meal or even hoof and horn meal mixed with equal quantities of wood ashes may be used at a
similar rate. These plant foods can be supplied not only when the flower garden is first made but every season
very early in the spring. A good dried poultry manure to which a little potash has been added is another fertilizer
that is very useful when applied at this time.

Minimum Digging

Flower growers must realize that proper soil treatment is the first essential to success. The millions and millions
of soil bacteria that live in the ground to help the gardener, much appreciate little or no digging. It enables
them to work better, for they need conditions which are natural. So do give them what they need.

Liming

Lime should be regarded as an essential except in very definite cases where acidity is demanded, e.g. the
heaths and heathers, rhododendrons and azaleas.

Lime not only prevents soil from being acid but it ‘sweetens’ it, as well as playing its part as a plant food.
It improves the texture and workability of heavy soils. It helps to release other plant foods, and it
decomposes organic compounds in the soil so that they can be used as plant food also.

Generally speaking it should be applied at about 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd). It should not be dug in, as it
washes down into the soil very quickly. It should be sprinkled on the surface of the ground after the digging
and manuring has been done. Do not mix lime with organic fertilizers. There are three main types of lime:
Quicklime, sometimes sold as Buxton Lime or Lump Lime, which has to be slaked down on the soil;
Chalk or Limestone, often sold as Ground Limestone, only half as valuable as quicklime; and
Hydrated Lime, which is perhaps the most convenient to handle and is therefore most usually used by gardeners.
The quantity of lime mentioned previously i.e. 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd), refers to hydrated lime."
 

The following is the opinion of Chris Garnons-Williams to the above:-

If you walk through an old wooded area, which is not intensively managed, you will see dead leaves on the
ground, together with fallen branches, brambles, nettles, other weeds and juvenile plants. There will be
waste material from birds and animals and this has not been cleared up and disposed of. This mulch then
provides the organic material to be recycled via the ground with its different organisms to the roots of those
same trees for them to continue to grow.
Nobody digs up the ground to push this material in a few inches or to the depth of the topsoil, nature does it
with earthworms and other organisms at the rate required by the organisms down below to then use it. The
trees in this wood then grow fairly uniformly using the available resources.

So, do not dig the manure, wool shoddy, vegetable refuse or hop manure or anything else in. Leave it on top
as a mulch and that includes the organic fertilizers and the lime.
Instead of adding finely divided sedge peat, add spent mushroom compost which contains peat which has
already been used; and so you are using their waste product for recycling, instead of destroying more peat
bogs which have taken 1000's of years to be created. You could use bracken instead of peat.

The topsoil is full of organisms, either the waste products from are used by another or they are. If you turn
them up from the bottom of the topsoil to the top, then those new top ones will starve to death and the ones
who were at the top are now at the bottom and they will as well since it is only waste down there which is
not their normal fare. They do have a bus transport system to get them back to their original levels, since water
is the only transport system down there, which unfortunately normally goes downwards.

So why do you not use the companion planting cultivation method as further detailed in Companion Planting?
You may follow this with the following which is normally used for the vegetable garden:-

"Spinach is sown in spring in rows 50cm apart over the whole vegetable garden area for the following
purposes:

• these rows divide the vegetable garden up for the whole year,
• the spinach roots prevent erosion, so the usual paths between beds are omitted,
• young spinach plants provide protection and shade for the vegetable crops to be grown between them,
• spinach provides ideal material for sheet surface composting, which becomes an intermediate space, a footpath, and
• it is in between these lines of spinach that the other vegetable varieties are arranged."

This could be used in the flower beds as the system between the permanent plants of trees, shrubs
and perennials, which is where you may put bedding. This will also provide you with access to the bedding
and the permanent plants together with the nitrogen fertilizer for the other plants from the legumes of
spinach.
You plant your bedding, bulbs or vegetables through the mulch between the lines of spinach. The damage you
do to where you plant is fairly quickly repaired by the organisms in the surrounding soil, who each come into
the level below the ground level where they normally reside, until they meet their relatives onthe other side of
the planting hole. The ecosystem is then restored.