Ivydene Gardens Photos of Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens: Click on 1 of 48 Colours or 4 colours of Black in |
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I am taking photos of rock garden plants suitable for small gardens and if they do not have their own Plant Description Page in this website, then each photo of each plant will be located at the bottom of the relevant 1 of 52 Rockgarden Flower Colour Wheel pages. Usually a link in *** to that page will be included in the Name field of the respective Index Page. If there is more than 1 photo for that plant that I wish to display then, this Gallery will have photos of that plant in its page. |
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There are 256 plant photos in the following flower colour months in this Gallery:-
There are 35 plant description pages in this Gallery:-
The Site Map which links to all the |
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" Pans are used in preference to the wooden flats for raising alpine plants from seed and there are 3 reasons for their use:-
All pans must be scrupously clean for seed raising and these and all crocking materials are best washed in hot soapy water. Give these a good scrubbing with a pot brush to remove all dirt and stains. After this treatment a plunge into a strong solution of permanganate of potash, to act as a partial steriliser and a deterrent to formation of fungi, lichens, etc. The pans should then be placed on one side to dry, but do not allow them to become too dry, otherwise they will extract all the moisture from the seed compost. Wet pans must not be used for they will cause the soil to adhere to the sides. Thus when attempting to remove the seedlings it will be found that both the soil and roots of the seedlings have become attached to the pans and a subsequent loss of seedlings is likely to occur. New pans must not be used straight from the makers, for they will have been kiln fired and therefore need soaking for at least 24 hours before use. Then, these also must be partly dried after the potash of permanganate plunge. The preparation of the pans for raising plants from seed is simple. At the same time it is necessary to take care, for there is a possibility that they will have to remain in use for a long period. First of all a piece of perforated zinc should be placed over the vent of the pan. This is preferable to crocks which are often used, for the zinc will prevent the entry of undesirable pests such as woodlice, slugs, worms etc., from making a home in the drainage, to say nothing of the damage these will do to the young seedlings. After the piece of zinc, an inch of drainage material is put in. This can be of broken brick, chippings or the residue of Cornish sand after being riddled though a 1/16 inch sieve. On top of this a thin covering of peat roughage or flaked leaf-mould should be placed, just enough to prevent the seed compost from filtering down and blocking up the drainage. Lastly, the compost suited to the seed is used and the pan filled to within 0.5 inches of the top and made firm. It is essential that the soil around the sides of the pan be also firmed, otherwise there will be poor germination in this area. After completion of this firming process evenly over the surface, the seed pans should be placed in a container holding 2 inches (5 cms) of water and left there until the surface of the compost darkens, then the pans should be removed and all surplus water allowed to drain away." from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. |
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" No matter what type of material is to be used for cuttings, it must always be borne in mind that on no account must they be taken from flowering shoots. These will not strike, or if they do will rarely grow into first class plants. This is easily understood, for their natural aim is reproduction of the species and as nature's normal method in this matter is the production of seed; then all the available strength is diverted to the buds with this aim in view. The following are the 5 different kinds of cuttings from which new plants can be raised:- 1 - Green Cuttings These are best rooted in a closed sunny frame if at all possible, but a great deal of watering will be necessary for on no account must the compost be allowed to dry out. Many will root in a matter of days in a frame of this type. If rooted in a part shade frame, which requires less watering, from 1 to 2 weeks will suffice. Naturally everything depends on the season and type of weather experienced at the time the cuttings are taken, but in normal weather conditions May and early June are the best times. If spring is early, the date can be advanced a week or two, or retarded if spring is late or cold. All dates quoted are for the south of England, in the midlands an extra week's growth will be necessary, while in the north and Scotland up to 2 weeks. 2 - Half-ripened Cuttings 3 - Hardwood Cuttings 4 - Root Cuttings The plant is carefully removed from its pan and after taking away all drainage material, the roots are gently washed free of soil and then the thong-like roots, not less than the thickness of a pencil, are chosen for propagation. Only 1 or 2 can be taken if the plant is not to suffer unduly and these are cut into pieces 0.75 to 1 inch (2-2.5 cms) in length. Smaller sections should be avoided, as they will not root. The base of the cutting should be cut slightly on the slant so the propagator knows which is the base and which is the top when inserting the cuttings. Reversing the cuttings will almost certainly result in failure. They are not likely to strike unless placed in the rooting medium in the correct position. The pieces of root are best inserted in pans, the mixture being equal parts of leaf-mould and sharp sand. The top of the root cutting should be just above the surface of the compost. Another inch (2.5cms) of Cornish sand is placed over this and the compost is well watered. The pan is then plunged in a closed frame where fresh growth will soon take place. They should be allowed to grow on steadily for 6 weeks to 2 months keeping the soil just moist. The cuttings can then be treated as rooted cuttings and potted on in the appropriate mixture. April and May are the ideal months for taking this kind of cutting. 5 - Leaf Cuttings All chippings and loose soil should be removed from around the collar of the plant to be propagated. The leaf must then be held firmly, as near the base as possible, and given a sharp downward tug so that the whole leaf, complete with its short basal stalk, is removed. It is very important that the base of the stalk is intact for it is the point where the base was joined to the main stem of the parent plant that the embryo plant is contained. Although not strictly leaf cuttings, a plant that makes a thick fleshy main stem, such as some of the European primulas, Primula marginata and its varieties for instance, sometimes begin to rot at the apex of the stem, owing to water having lodged there. If the top is completely cut away back to a healthy stock, then all foliage removed, it will be found that at the junction where the foliage joined the stem; small fresh rosettes will appear. After a few weeks, but still while small, they can be removed and dibbled into rooting compost, where they will soon make sturdy young plants. For leaf cuttings a pan should be filled with equal parts of finely sifted leaf-mould and Cornish sand. The sand should be sifted through a 1/16 inch (2mm) sieve, well mixed with the leaf-mould and thoroughly moistened, and the whole made firm. The leaf cuttings are laid horizontally on the surface of the compost and the short basal stalk pressed into the mixture, making this firm so the leaf cannot move, for firmness is essential for rooting. This can be accomplished by using a piece of bent wire or, what I consider preferable, a small stone placed over the base of the leaf. Not only does the stone protect the base but also this vital part is kept moist and cool. The pan is then placed in the cutting frame which must be kept closed. Rooting actually takes place quickly, but new rosettes are generally slow to form. A careful watch must be maintained for as soon as these are discernible; the stone must be removed. After approximately 4 to 6 weeks the young plantlets will be ready to pot on in the suitable compost. " from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. . |
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A good supply of pans will be required for a really representative collection of alpines. I have always used half pots, not the so-called alpine pans, which in my opinion are too shallow for the cultivation of alpines. This is a personal preference but I have found that alpines, being naturally long rooting plants, require a deeper root run than is generally supposed. They also need good drainage, at least an inch (2.5 cms) of which has to be used, thus very little room is left for the growing compost if shallow pans are used. A number of the following sizes will meet most requirements, depending on the extent of the collection, but allowance should be made for plants that are naturally fast growing. Nothing is more annoying than to find that pans are not available when plants need repotting. This sometimes leads to putting off what is an important job, the health of the plants suffering in consequence. It is not only cheaper to purchase complete casts of the different sizes of pans, but also all pans in each individual cast will be of the same size, quite a labour saver when plunging plants.
The measurements are taken 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) down inside the rim. The following is Chris Garnons-Williams idea of the minimum depth for these pans for alpines:-
A number of square pans are useful and take up less room on the staging, besides being easier for packing if exhibiting, but the cost is much greater than that of the orthodox round pans. These square pans can be constructed at home quite cheaply, all that is required is a wooden former or formers, the size or sizes depending entirely on the purpose for which they will be needed. The small wooden bung is cut from a broom shank and is needed for the drainage hole. The following Fig 16 gives a good idea of the method and used in conjunction with these notes it will be possible to produce first class containers. A sheet of brown paper larger than the required size of the pan is laid on a flat surface and the wooden former is placed in the centre. A mix is made consisting of
all ingredients should be well mixed dry first and then a little water added until the whole is just moist. This is important for the cement is applied by hand, about 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) thick and just smoothed out with a trowel; if too wet the mix will not retain its shape. Cover with a damp sack or rags and leave for at least 9 days, when the complete pan can be gently eased out of the former, which can be used over and over again. Naturally if a selection of formers is made up, it is possible to build up a good collection of pans over a period of time. Another advantage is that knowing the size of the available space on the alpine house staging it will be possible to build the square pans to size so that the maximum number of plants can be accomodated. Another type of pan that is often used for growing the rarer high alpine plants, especially those with a long rooting system, is called the 'Long Tom'. This is at least twice the depth of the normal pans thus allowing the room needed for extra drainage material, required for this type of plant. Most gardeners will want to raise plants from seed as this method is very often the only way of obtaining plants from abroad. To do this seed pans will also be required. Shallow pans are quite suitable, approximately 3 inches (7.5 cms) in depth, irrespective of the size of pan. Pans are generally preferable to the old shallow wooden seed boxes which are used for raising annual bedding plants each year, which are not only perishable, lasting but a year or two, but also provide a congenial home for woodlice and other pests. A number of small pots used for cacti, 1.5 inches (3.75 cms) in diameter for the first potting up of seedlings will also be found useful. No new bisque-fired clay pan must be used before having soaked for at least 24 hours in water. It is surprising the amount they will absorb during this period, the reason being that every trace of moisture has been extracted during the oven firing process. Failure to do this will have disastrous results, for any moisture in the compost when used for potting up will be absorbed by the dry pan instead of by the plant. Cleanliness is essential when dealing with pans. It is the dirt adhering to the pan, especially at the base where the drainage goes that is the very thing you wish to avoid, and is only waiting the opportunity to infest what is otherwise clean compost. Here is the breeding home of nematodes, woodlice, slugs, etc. All pans should be scrubbed after use and before using for new plants. Warm water is best and add a soap powder. Special care should be taken that all dirt is removed from the base of the pan. A rinsing in clean cold water to which has been added a few crystals of potassium permanganate will complete the job. " from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. |
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BeeMat is a biodegradable pre-seeded growing mat that controls weeds. You can lay BeeMat from March until mid-August providing conditions remain good and the soil temperature is above 5 degrees Centigrade. It contains mixed flower seeds that have been carefully chosen to provide nectar and pollen for bees in the autumn when other flowers have finished. The bees visiting this mat will also visit your rock garden plants close by to pollinate your flowers and then you may get seeds to increase your stock of that rock plant . |
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Why "GREEN Plant Swap? For some 30 years my Dad has been selling plants to gardeners from his old rectory garden in Devon. Always by appointment, they come and take a tour of the garden with him. They talk and share a bit of gardening knowledge or life experience, depending on how the mood takes them. Then they buy some plants. Many of the rhododendron gardens in the South West, including the National Trust, now grow plants from my Dad’s garden and come back for more each year. For my parents this small garden business has delivered an invaluable income. More important, however, they've loved doing it and made many good friends in the process. For 30 years too, they have also opened their garden under the National Gardens Scheme. This fabulous programme which attracts 750,000 visitors to 3,700 private gardens, raises £2.5m for charity each year. Brilliant. But it also has another less well known statistic: 2,500 of the garden owners also sell plants. Meanwhile thousands of other smaller independent growers and nurseries, who know their plants struggle to compete with the bigger garden centres, DIY stores and supermarkets, who sell a much more limited range of popular plants. So this got me thinking. Nature is prolific. The perfectly ordered border one year is a jungle within two or three, offering up many instant plants through division. Seeds are cheap and plentiful. Bulbs multiply. Cuttings shoot roots. What if a location-based service helped gardeners grow and bag up some of these riches and sell or swap them with one another? Why, your garden could pay for itself, while you get many new plants, interests and friends along the way. What is there not to like? And what if the service made it easy to list your plants against a central database and find the ones you most want, so it helped local and specialist nurseries too? Then the whole service could help map and support the diversity of garden plants in the UK, which is at risk. We hope you like what you find on GreenPlantSwap and get as much pleasure from swapping and selling plants from your garden as my Dad has over the last 30 years. Jeremy Wright, Founder" and so, Terms of Use:- "What We Do - GreenPlantSwap is a service that lets you publish plant information and plant listings in order to help you to buy, sell and swap plants between yourselves as members. You need to be a member to do any of these things. What we don't do - We can't promise or guarantee any particular result or outcomes when you become a member. For example, we can't promise that other members definitely will or won't buy your plants or sell particular plants to you (though of course we hope they would). As a result, we require members to be solely responsible for any and all agreements or arrangements they reach with each other through use of GreenPlantSwap and any legal aspects of them, for example contract law, consumer law (including distance selling, returns and refunds), negligence and occupier's liability. This includes any potential issues about whether the plants involved are as described, fit for purpose, of any particular quality or in any particular state or condition. We will not be responsible for any loss or damage that occurs as a result of any plant sale, purchase or exchange, whether the transaction went ahead or not." So on to become a member of GreenPlantSwap. |
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Try using Peat Free compost instead of using Peat. |
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The National Herb Centre, banbury Road, Warmington, Near Banbury, Warwickshire has:- Our nature trail and display gardens are set in beautiful countryside and entry to them is free. Nature Trail Our nature trail winds down through a valley amongst fields, by ponds and into woodland with the opportunity to view three separate counties, namely Oxfordshire, Warwickshire and Northamptonshire. There are three routes to choose from and the time to complete each trail ranges from 25 minutes to approximately an hour. On the trail you may see all kinds of wildlife in its natural habitat including rabbits, foxes, badgers, bats, buzzards, partridge, a variety of deer or even a white stag, as well as seeing native trees and wild flowers. A guide to the trail and what to look out for, is available in the shop. Gardens We have six specially designed demonstration herb gardens to show you how you can make the most of herbs in your own garden, including ideas for encouraging wildlife, growing edible herbs and a garden inspired by the Roman use of herbs. When enjoying our nature trail and gardens please observe the simple rules of the countryside code and keep dogs on a lead and ensure children respect the welfare of wildlife, particularly in the spring and summer to avoid disturbing the wildlife during the important breeding months." |
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Not much room, then create a miniature garden:- "The Miniature Garden Shoppe is a family business which opened in 2008. I (Kathryn) am the creative mind, designer, and gardener behind the store and my husband, Ben, is the computer-guy and entrepreneur. My mother-in-law, Mary, is our talented photographer. The concept of miniature gardening makes so much sense. Many of us don’t have the time to tend huge gardens these days. And those who already have gardens, appreciate the opportunity for a new creative gardening outlet that doesn’t require digging up more ground or hours of maintenance. I grew up in the greenhouse business and am a garden designer and horticulturalist by trade, with a degree in Ornamental Horticulture from the University of Illinois. I was first charmed and inspired by a miniature garden that I saw on an area garden club garden walk in 2005. Like any creative soul, I started thinking of how I would make my own little landscape. I started searching for all of the miniature garden necessities and began gardening in a new direction, on a much smaller scale. The ideas are limitless but the materials can be difficult to find, hence the Miniature Garden Shoppe…. It goes without saying that all of the products on our website are not toys and not intended for children. There are many sharp edges, pointed ends, and tiny pieces that are nothing but hazardous for young kids. Having said that, I can tell you that people of all ages are charmed by these little creations. My two-year old son loved to dig in the gardens with the tiny shovel and to water our miniature garden using the tiny bucket, which he fills from the birdbath in the yard. Whatever your age or interest, I hope you find everything you need to create a tiny garden treasure of your own or for a special gift. Nothing can squash a flash of inspiration like the frustration of not being able to find what you need. If there’s something you’re looking for and can’t find it, please drop us a line. If you run into a problem when you’re creating your garden or a have a question while caring for it, please don’t hesitate to contact us. If we don’t have the answer, we’ll help you find it. These little gardens are enchanting and intriguing and I’m glad your search has led you here. I know you’re going to have fun with this idea and I hope we can help! Happy gardening, Kathryn Newman
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List of all plants with their own page in this gallery, who do not have Plant Description Pages elsewhere:-
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Rock Plant Colour Wheel - Flowers Link Map Click on Number in Colour Wheel or Black sections below:- |
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Some abbreviations have been used in compiling the list of Rock Plants for small gardens in order to make it possible to provide all the required information at a glance in a condensed form within the Rock Garden Plant Index Pages. |
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Name |
First is the name of the genus to which the plant belongs which is given in capitals. Under the generic name the names of the species and varieties are recorded. Link to photos, cultivation details or mail-order business that sells it. Link in *** to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page with photo of the plant at bottom of page. Then, More Photos Page links to further photos / description in its Rock Plant Photos Gallery Page. Followed by link in Return to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page for comparison of flower photos or link in Index Page in the Rock Garden Colour Wheel Gallery for possible further description. |
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Suitability |
Details of which container to grow the plant in:-
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Type |
Abbreviated to:-
followed by
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Height and Spread |
The approximate height is given first in inches, followed by the approximate spread, when mature. 1 inch (") = 25.4 millimetres (mm) |
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Soil |
The figures A, B, C and D denote that the plant in question requires one of the following soil mixtures:-
which may be followed by Where no additional letter is given, the plant will thrive under either condition. |
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Position and Protection |
The following terms and abbreviations used singly or in combination will minimize the risk of planting in an unsuitable spot:-
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Flower Colour, Nearest Colour Wheel - Flowers Colour and Months of Flowering |
These 3 columns are self-explanatory;
A double entry such as |
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Propagation |
A general idea to the best method of increasing the stock:-
may be followed by
A combination of the above will denote that the plant can be increased by all the methods which those abbreviated letters stand for. |
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Propagation Seed Composts |
"I am giving 3 types of composts which will be numbered 1, 2 and 3 so that they will not be confused with the potting mixtures. The number of the compost will be noted under the heading of propagation in the list of plants. These are not offered as the only types in which seedlings may be grown, but they have proved their worth over many years. As it will only be on rare occasions that a bushel of compost of any one of the seed mixtures will be required, I will give the size of the box which can be constructed easily to hold a quarter of a bushel, an amount more in keeping with the average amateur's need. The inside measurements of the box, which is best made of wood are 10 by 10 x 5.5 inches deep (25 by 25 x 13.25 cms). By doubling the depth a half bushel measure is available. Compost 1
and well mix the whole together dry. Afterwards to this is added
to each bushel of compost. If this mixture is to be used for plants which are lime haters, the chalk should be omitted.
Compost 2
Compost 3
Both composts 2 and 3 need a very fine sprinkling of superphosphate of lime, just under 0.5 ounce for a a quarter of a bushel of mixture or to be more precise 3/8 of an ounce. The superphosphate is needed by the seedlings in their early growth. In fact it is essential as a plant food as soon as the seed starts to germinate, so it must be mixed with the composts, not applied afterwards. " from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. |
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THE 2 EUREKA EFFECT PAGES FOR UNDERSTANDING SOIL AND HOW PLANTS INTERACT WITH IT OUT OF 15,000:-
or
when I do not have my own or ones from mail-order nursery photos , then from March 2016, if you want to start from the uppermost design levels through to your choice of cultivated and wildflower plants to change your Plant Selection Process then use the following galleries:-
I hope that you find that the information in this website is useful to you:- I like reading and that is shown by the index in my Library, where I provide lists of books to take you between designing, maintaining or building a garden and the hierarchy of books on plants taking you from
There are the systems for choosing plants as shown in
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Site design and content copyright ©August 2013. Added more Plant Plant Photo Pages in February 2015. Chris Garnons-Williams. DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
List of Desirable Plants (from Vancouver Island Rock
Vancouver Island Rock and Alpine Garden Society is a club of plant lovers living near Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, who visit, study, photograph, draw and grow alpine plants, bog dwellers and woodlanders, whether native or exotic. We encourage the propagation and distribution of plants. |
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There are other pages on Plants which bloom in each month of the year in this website:-
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Further details on Seed Pans, Cuttings and Pans for Rock Garden Plants in the Flower Shape and Plant Use of |
PAGES FOR PHOTOS OF ROCK GARDEN PLANTS WHO DO NOT HAVE THEIR OWN PLANT DESCRIPTION PAGE
Small size plant in Flower Colours
Miniature size plant in Flower Colours
Small Size plant flower in Month
Miniature Size plant flower in Month
FLOWERING IN MONTH
January
February
March
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
December
Dark Tone or Shades
(Colours mixed with Black)
Mid-Tone
(Colours mixed with Grey)
Pure Hue
(the Primary, Secondary or Tertiary Colour named)
Pastel
(Colours mixed with White)
ROCK GARDEN PLANT INDEX
(o)Rock Plant: A
(o)Rock Plant: B
(o)Rock Plant: C
(o)Rock Plant: D
(o)Rock Plant: E
(o)Rock Plant: F
(o)Rock Plant: G
(o)Rock Plant: H
(o)Rock Plant: I
(o)Rock Plant: J
(o)Rock Plant: K
(o)Rock Plant: L
(o)Rock Plant: M
(o)Rock Plant: NO
(o)Rock Plant: PQ
(o)Rock Plant: R
(o)Rock Plant: S
(o)Rock Plant: T
(o)Rock Plant: UVWXYZ
LISTS OF PLANTS SUITABLE FOR VARIOUS SITUATIONS AND PURPOSES:-
THE ROCK GARDEN -
Early Bloom in the Rock Garden.
Summer Bloom in the Rock Garden.
Late Bloom in the Rock Garden.
Rock plants of Creeping and Trailing Habit.
Rock plants with Evergreen Foliage.
Rock Plants with Silvery or Variegated Foliage.
Rock plants needing the protection of Sheet of Glass in Winter.
THE WALL GARDEN -
Plants for sunny sites in the Wall Garden.
Plants for Shady Sites in the Wall Garden.
Plants for a Dry Site on a Wall.
Plants for a Moderately Dry Site on a Wall.
Plants for a Moist Site on a Wall.
Plants for Positions on Top of Walls.
Plants to Hang Down from the Upper Parts of a Wall.
Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines
DETAILS OF PLANTS IN LISTS FOR THE ROCK, WALL, PAVED, WATER AND BOG GARDENS
Some Good Rock Plants with Some on Moraine
Plants for the Miniature Rock Garden with some Bulbs
Moisture-loving Trees and Shrubs for Bog or Water Garden
Plants for Wall Garden and Paved Garden
The Moraine or Scree Garden - Many of the alpines will not prosper in the ordinary rock garden. They require that the natural conditions under which they live in the wild state shall be copied as nearly as possible in the rock garden. The plants to which we refer grow on mountain slopes covered with loose stones, where the melting of the snow during summer provides them with plenty of ice-cold water and where a blanket of snow protects them during the winter. The conditions we must endeavour to reproduce are, therefore: adequate moisture for the roots in summer while the plants are growing, but at the same time good drainage:
and secondly, protection from damp in the winter. The moraine is intended to provide these requirements, and can be made quite cheaply anywhere in the rock garden. Plants requiring very diverse kinds of soil may thus, with great effect, be grown in close proximity.
Making the Moraine
An ideal and natural position for the moraine would be in the sun at the lower end of a miniature valley between 2 rocky spurs, the gorge gradually expanding into a flat bed of scree with occasional boulders strewn over it. The extent of the moraine will vary in proportion to the size of the whole rock garden. If the latter is large, the moraine may cover an area of many square yards (square metres); on the other hand, it may be nothing more than a small, well-drained pocket or crevice filled with moraine mixture in which a single specimen is grown.
To construct the moraine, dig out about 30 inches (75cms) of the soil and make the bottom of the basin or trench slope slightly towards the front: the slope must not be too steep or the moraine will become over-dry in summer. The lower 10 inches (25cms) must be made water-tight by means of puddling with clay or by means of cement. Make an outlet in front, which when closed keeps about 10 inches (25 cms) of water, but not more, in the lowest parts of the basin, while when the outlet is open no water can remain in the basin. Now cover the bottom of the trench with about 10 inches (25 cms) of rubble, stones, or any material that will afford good drainage. Above this place another 6 inches (15 cms) or so of smaller stones roughly 2 inches (5 cms) in diameter; these will fill the gaps between the larger stones and prevent the small grit above from sinking through and blocking the drainage. The hollow is then filled up with a mixture of stone chips and gravel. Over this again is thrown a covering, an inch or so (2.5 cm) in thickness, formed of a mixture of equal parts of ordinary garden soil, leaf mould, and small stone chips similar to those used in frosty weather for sprinkling on wood-paved roads. Limestone or sandstone chips are excellent and easily obtained; flint chips should not be used, as they do not conserve moisture. Place a few boulders in the moraine to break up the surface and to give the plants some protection. A natural trickle of water may be led into the top of the moraine, or each day sufficient moisture may be given from a watering-can to cause an overflow from the outlet at the bottom. From November to May, when no additional moisture is needed in the moraine, the outlet should be left open.
The overflow from the moraine may be led into a small pool, which will add great charm to the rock garden, and is easy to construct while the garden is being made. In it may be grown rushes and small water plants, while the overflow from it will provide an excellent situation for bog plants or for any alpines loving plenty of moisture. When planting, the gardener should remember the conditions under which each plant lives in its native state, and should set it in the rock garden accordingly. Many plants that have proved failures in the rock garden proper will, on transplantation to the moraine, flourish.
The inhabitants of the moraine are not so rampant as many alpines grown in the rock garden proper, but for all that, the more vigorous should be kept in check. A light top-dressing of equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, and stone chips will be required in spring and again in early autumn.
Protection of Plants in Winter
Plants whose leaves are covered with fluff or down are, when in their natural haunts, usually protected from damp during the winter by a coat of snow. When they are grown out of doors in England, they must, therefore, be given a covering of glass during the winter months: that is, from the middle of October to the beginning of March. When the plant is a small one nestling in a crevice between the rocks, it is often possible to cover it with a sheet of glass resting on the surrounding rocks; but when this cannot be done, 4 pieces of stiff galvanized wire should be inserted firmly in the ground and bent over at the top to hold the glass plate securely in position over the plant. If the weather is especially severe or the plant very delicate, 4 additional pieces of glass may be set in the soil and supported by the wires so as to form 4 walls protecting the plant. Sufficient space between the glass roof and the tops of the 4 walls should be left for adequate ventilation (but not enough to admit the rain or snow) or the plants will be liable to damp-off. Hand-lights and bell-glasses may also be used, but in all cases adequate ventilation should be provided. The frost will often raise the plants from the soil, especially those planted the previous autumn. In spring, therefore, each plant should be carefully scrutinized, and, if necessary, gently pressed down into the soil. Dead leaves must be removed from around the plants, and a top-dressing of fine, sandy loam and leaf-mould should be sifted round and close up to the crowns.
Topic |
Topic - Bulb Climber in |
Topic - Both native wildflowers and cultivated plants, with these
You know its Each plant in each WILD FLOWER FAMILY PAGE will have a link to:- |
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All Flowers 53 with |
Plant Colour Wheel Uses Uses of Bedding |
Nursery of Nursery of Damage by Plants in Chilham Village - Pages Pavements of Funchal, Madeira Identity of Plants Ron and Christine Foord - 1036 photos only inserted so far - Garden Flowers - Start Page of each Gallery |
Topic - |
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This table has been copied from P All2 Plants Index Gallery |
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The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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1 (o) |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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1 (o) |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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1 (o) |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |
This table has been copied from The colours in the Rock Plant Colour Wheel on the left; like 'Red 12 is Blood Red', correspond to the same colour 'Blood Red' in the following table:- One of these colours is to be used in these galleries to provide as near a match to the colour of the respective flower petal or respective leaf found of each plant in the internet. |
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White |
Silver or Gray 80 |
Fog or Gray 60 |
Dove Gray or Gray 40 |
Mine Shaft or Gray 20 |
Black |
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Vitamin C from Orange-s |
Orange |
Red Necta-rine |
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Green Spiritz |
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Orange Buddha Gold |
Sun-glow Yellow |
Dim Yellow Peach |
Atomic Tang-erine-Orange |
Orang-elin |
Super Red |
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Karaka Red |
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Electric |
Green Just for Fun |
Madras Blue |
Green Grass Stain |
Mossy Green Rock |
Ralph Yellow |
Electric Yellow |
Wheat Brown |
Brown Tusc-any |
Dark Cherry Red |
Blood-red |
OU Crim-son Red |
Boston Univ-ersity Red |
Red |
Water-melon Pink |
Bright Red |
Lovely Lime Green |
Young Green Grape |
Green Past-ure |
Costa del Sol Green |
Anot-her Mossy Green |
Sum-mer Orange Break |
Golden-Yellow Fizz |
Brown Gold Line |
Brown Choc-olate |
Red Claret |
Red Lady-bug |
Pers-ian Red |
Red Nect-arine |
Deep Red Rose |
Pink Bikini |
Broad-way Pink |
Bright Green |
Light Green |
Slight-ly Opt-imistic Green |
Lacan-don Green |
Not Your Green |
Pale Yellow |
Unmel-low Yellow |
Rusty Brown Pelican |
Brown Nut-meg Wood |
Brown Copper Rose |
Red Fuzzy Wuzzy |
Seat-tle Orange Salmon |
Red Colin |
Mag-enta Cornu-copia |
Rose Pink |
Process Red Pagen-ta |
Slimer 2 Green |
Time to App-reciate Green |
Vihrea Green |
Esper-anza Green |
Distant Green Neon |
Pine Glade Yellow |
Canary-Yellow |
Brow-ser Brown Caram-el |
Brown Heat-land |
Faded Red Roses |
Light Pink Salmon |
Flex-eril Pink |
Faded Red |
Fresh Red Egg-plant |
Mag-enta Razzle Dazzle Rose |
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Astro-turf Green - Empty |
Green Fabula Fabul-ae |
Verdun Green |
Lars-beck Green |
Pale Green |
Green Lime-ade |
Bone Yellow |
Peach-Orange |
Deep Orange Saffron |
Flat-pink |
Pink |
Forbid-den Mag-enta |
Mauve Red |
Dried Red Blood |
Red Bruisin |
Plain Red Jane |
Frankie The Green Lizard |
Lily Pad Green |
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Green Wasabi |
Aurora Borealis Green |
Off-white Green |
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Purple Lav-ender |
Dingy Mauve Purple |
I Dont Purple Now |
True Purple |
Royal Purple |
Purple Beet |
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Pakis-tan Green |
Swamp Muck Green |
Irish Flag Green |
Green Bonsai |
High-land Green |
Weak Green |
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Mag-enta Dev-otion |
Deeper Pink |
Mag-enta Shifts |
What Hur Violet? |
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Purple Ameth-eyst |
Purple Cali-hoe |
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Pine Green |
Her-man the Worm'n Green |
Star-bucks Green |
US Mint Greens |
Putt-ing Green |
Whisp-er Blue |
Baby Blue |
Dodger Blue |
Celest-ial Blue |
Laven-der Blue |
Mauve |
Ameth-yst Purple |
Gurple Purple |
Blue Plum Wine |
Mardi Gras Purple |
Deep Mag-enta |
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Likely Green |
Fun Green |
Pen Green |
Winter-green |
Light Cyan Blue |
Um Sunken Pool Blue |
Dell Blue |
Blue Gray |
Praise Blue |
Blue-bell |
Purple The Symbol |
Blue Serene Spirit |
Violet |
The Purple Bands |
Grape Mag-enta |
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Neon Avocado Green |
Minty (Bright Green) |
Near Lime Green |
Green Haze |
Aqua-marine Blue |
Blue Aqua |
Patina Blue |
Dark Mid-night Blue |
Dark-ening Blue Sky |
Cobalt Blue |
Blue Peri-winkle |
Blue Kimb-erly |
Purpl-ish Blue |
Anot-her Purple |
Purple Rasp-berry |
Pure Bright-ness Purple |
Spring Green |
Under The Blue Sea |
Crayola Green Sham-rock |
Cyan Blue Shift |
Lighter Turqu-oise Blue |
Gareen Light Green |
Rain-forest Green |
Skinny Blue |
Dar Powder Blue |
Royal Blue |
Sophie Blue |
Blue (pig-ment) |
Blue Steely Eyes |
A Blue Popple Eater |
Look to the Purple Sky |
Blue Safe |
Light Teal Blue |
Aphro-dite's Blue Robe |
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Robin Egg Blue |
Gentle Green |
Blue Stone |
Green Dirty Oil |
Curious Blue |
Blue Mariner |
Blue |
Blue For You |
Navy Blue |
French Blue |
Mid-night Blue |
Put the Bass in the Blues |
Corn-flower Blue |
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Green Mint to do that |
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Sky Blue |
Blue Splish |
Pole Blue |
Iris Blue |
Blue Below |
Covie Blue |
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Deep Blue |
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Arrow Blue |
Azure Rad-iance Blue |
Kiblupa Blue |
Blue Electric |
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Variegated |
Variegated |
Variegated 1 |
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Copied from Ivydene Gardens Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens in Colour Wheel Gallery: Introduction |
Vancouver Island Rock and Alpine Garden Society is a club of plant lovers living near Victoria, British Columbia, Canada, who visit, study, photograph, draw and grow alpine plants, bog dwellers and woodlanders, whether native or exotic. We encourage the propagation and distribution of plants.
List of Desirable Plants (from Vancouver Island Rock Asterisks following entries in the list denote plants known to the author from local gardens. Double asterisks indicate species which have done particularly well in the author's rock garden which is located mostly on south-facing slopes. No, or only short-term experience is available for the unmarked species, but they are expected to perform well and should be tried wherever obtainable.
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