Picture Folder Name Pages:-

Since 14 June 2019 I have also started to put my own full-sized 4000 x 3000 digital Camera images into the relevant topics in this website again for use in the Public Domain - since there may be 9 or more to a page the resulting
43 Mb website page may take some time to load. Since I have more than 26,522 photos using 111,460 Mb of my disk space, then the extra upfront cost per annum before creating more folders like Photo coleus is just over 3.16 pence per photo has been paid for the total number in that entire photo collection before any are sent to the website.
It is hoped that you may find them of interest.

Coleus Bedding Foliage Trial Folder
from Plant Trials Field in RHS Garden
at Wisley taken on
2 October 2013
1, plus Tables of Annuals with/for:-
2, Blue to Purple Flowers
3, Red to Pink Flowers 1, 2
4, Green Flowers
5, Black or Brown Flowers
6, Yellow, and Orange Flowers
7, White Flowers
8,
9, Low-Growing
10,
11, Medium-Growing
12, Tall-Growing
13, Heat-Tolerant
14, Moist Soil
15, Shade
16, Indoors
17, Cutting
18, Naturalize
19, Decorative Foliage
20, Edging
21, Fragrance
22, Hanging Baskets
23, Vining
24, Wildflower Meadows
25, Coastal Gardens
26, Mounded Habit
27, Erect Habit
28, Clump-Forming Habit
29, Compact/Bushy Habit
30, Spreading/Sprawling Habit
31, To Cover Fences
32, Odds and Sods 1, 2
Coleus Bedding Trial Index
Range, Culture and Description Details of each of the above are within
Essential Annuals The 100 best for Design and Cultivation.
Text by Elizabeth Murray. Photography by Derek Fell.
Published by Crescent Books in 1989. ISBN 0-517-66177-2

Bedding Gallery has
other bedding plants, in their
flower colour,
flower shape and
bedding plant use
pages.

Topic - Flower/Foliage Colour
Colour Wheel Galleries
Following your choice using Garden Style then that changes your Plant Selection Process
Garden Style
...Infill Plants
...12 Bloom Colours per Month Index
...12 Foliage Colours per Month Index
...All Plants Index
...Cultivation, Position, Use Index
...Shape, Form
Index
Further details on Bedding from the Infill Plants Galleries of the above topic:-
...for Spring
...for Summer
...for Autumn
...for Winter
...for Sandy Soil
...for Acid Soil
...for Chalky Soil
...for Clay Soil
...Flower Colour:-
......Black
......Blue
......Orange
......Pink
......Purple
......Red
......White
......Yellow
......Multi-coloured
...Use of Bedding:-
......Aromatic Fol
......Scented Flo
......Long Flo
......Coloured Fol
......for Bees, etc
......Cut Flos
......Hanging Pot
......Pots/ Troughs
......Screening
......Window Box
......Bedding Out
......Filling in
Further details on Annuals from the Infill Galleries:-
Uses of Annuals
...Exposed Sites
...Sheltered Sites
...in Greenhouse
...Extra Poor Soil
...Very Rich Soil
...Gap Filling
...Patio Pots
...Cut Flowers 1, 2
...Everlasting Flos
...Attract Insects
...with Fragrance
...Bee Pollinated
...Annual Pairing
...Low-Growing
...Med-Growing
...Tall Growing
...Flower Colour:-
......Black/Brown
......Blue-Purple
......Green
......Red-Pink
......White
......Yellow/Orange
...for its Foliage
...in Moist Soil
...in Shade
...as Houseplants
...Edging Beds
...Hanging Basket
...Vining Annuals

Damage to Trees in Pavement in Madeira caused by the action of man during January/February 2019.

Solution to holes in trees.
Remove mesh covers and rot within the hole. Then blast the remaining rot with a high pressure water hose to try and clear more of the rot. Spray with Boron (a water based preservative kills only wood boring insects - not spiders, birds or bats) as a treatment for insect, wet and dry rot attack. While it is still wet, apply a layer of Expanding Foam to the bottom of the hole. Immediately place bottles on this 
and allow to set for 5 minutes. Apply another layer of expanding foam and another layer of bottles. The aim of the bottles is to occupy space, they are not there as a deterrent. That is why the foam has to be in contact with the inside of the tree not the glass bottle. The poisons in the foam will kill anything eating it and the foam does stick better when wet with water. Keep up this operation until the hole is covered. 
Leave to set and then paint the foam surface twice with a recommended water-based, but not oil-based, sealant.

Solutions to stop creating holes in trees.
When a branch is cut off, remember to cut it off on the other side of the Branch Collar. (See Figure 1 - Optimum position of the final pruning cut in "Guide to Tree Pruning" by the Arboricultural Association which shows the branch collar within and outside the tree. My Comments: I disagree with their recommendation not to apply wound paint as you can see the result if you do not paint trees which are dehydrated, starved and gassed as these trees in the pavements of Madeira are.) 
Once that is done, then immediately apply Boron and 2 coats of protective sealant as used for holes in trees above.

Solution to current problem on these mosaic pavements:-
Carefully remove the existing marble mosaic, concrete, tarmac, or paver and 
the concrete/metal enclosures round the trees. If any further solid material like gravel, bricks, stones etc can be removed as well, then do so. Level the ground with sharp sand (Sharp sand is like pyramids which lock together, builder's sand is like ball bearings which displaces itself elsewhere if it can when downward pressure is applied to it). 
The time to execute the above and complete the refilling with sharp sand must 
be completed within 20 minutes, otherwise the exposed roots will dry up and die. 
It is useful to now water it to settle the sand and keep the roots wet. Put the roll 
of continuous geotextile over the top before laying down the CEDAdrive slabs on 
top. Fill the slabs with the required colours of marble pea-shingle and leave a 
3 inch (7.5 cm) gap between the trunk and the CEDAdrive section (Besides black 
and white marble, you can get many other colours). Spead Green Manure seed in 
the gap and cover to the same level as the top of the CEDAdrive with its pea-shingle; 
with sharp sand. The Green manure will provide a little nourishment for the tree 
and protection for the expanding trunk, together with protection from cigarettes. 
Further protection can be carried out by providing seating round the trunk, so that 
old fogeys like me can rest.
Pop-up irrigation water pipes can be supplied from these water manholes currently in the pavements and they can be set to irrigate each section in rotation from 
Midnight to 06:00 in the morning. A dissolved mixture of seaweed, fully composted animal waste and fully worm composted human food waste from restaurants/hotels can be applied over a pavement an hour before that section is irrigated 3 times a year to provide the same fertilizer regime as practised by the gardeners at the Pestana Mirimar for that hotel's garden. The drained solids from the above fertilizer solution can be applied over the sand between the tree and the CEDAdrive.
An alternative to using marble pea-shingle is Topmix Permeable Concrete within the CEDAdrive slabs. This would perform the same function as the marble pea-shingle, but it may be cheaper and quicker to use in other pavements. The depth of the Cedadrive slabs might have to be increased if traffic is allowed to cross or park on this type of pavement surface.

166 trees in the pavements in a short section of a road in Funchal, Madeira are being slowly, starved, dehydrated, asphyxiated, poisoned by tarmac and concrete, burnt inside their hollow trunks, roots pounded by 40 ton lorries or shoes of pedestrians, and allowed to rot until killed off during February 2019 (see information in Problems with trees in pavements in Funchal, Madeira in January/February 2018 Page, which appears to have had no effect) as shown by my 433 photos in the following pages within the Home Topic:-

• Death of tree roots and
• Death of tree trunks/branches caused by people.
• Solution to problems for trees caused by people using irrigation -
  Growth of Pollarded Tree in Hotel Garden in 1 year provides a water solution to this destruction.
• Damage to Tree Trunks 1, 2, 3, 4 caused by people,
• Damage to Tree Roots caused by people,
• Area of Open Ground round trees,
• New Trees in pavements 1, 2,
• Irrigation of current trees,
• Watersprouts on trees,
• Crossing Branches in trees,
• Utility Equipment with tree Foliage,
• Lights on trees,
• Bycycle Lane in Pavement,
• Public Gardens alongside pavements,
• Hotel/Private Gardens alongside pavements,
• Current Permeable Pavement Surface round trees and
• Irrigation and Fertilising of trees.

Articles on

• Branch Collar (see Solutions to stop creating holes in trees above) and the importance of leaving all of it while cutting off that branch
• My repair to a 1300 year old yew tree in my church at the bottom of pages 1-12
• Some of my work on trees using a chainsaw and chipper-shredder on page 13
• Protective Dressing, Cavities and 'do not use plastic twine or wire to tie a plant' are at the bottom of pages 14-25 with Forked Leaders, also Terminal Bud and Dormant Branch Growth Bud.
  Details on Boron woodworm, wet and dry wood rot treatment on Page 16.
• Ways to install trees at the bottom of pages 26-37 includes the following on watering - "Throughout the warm, summer weather, the tree will need the equivalent of 1 inch (2.5 cm) of rain per week and this water needs to be applied about twice each week (My Comments - since this is over the entire root area of this tree - which is at least the radius from the trunk of the height of the tree - then if the CEDAdrive slabs are used, apply 0.5 inchs (1.25 cms) of irrigation twice a week to that entire area).  Approximately 5-10 gallons (20 – 40 liters) of water is sufficient to moisten a 20-inch (50 cm) diameter root ball.  A 40-inch (100 cm) diameter root ball has more than twice the volume and would require 35-45 gallons (130 – 170 liters). 
  Another way to measure water need is with the following formula:   The tree needs 5 gallons minimum and 5 additional gallons per inch of diameter (DBH); hence a 3 inch DBH tree needs 20 gallons of water per week to equal 1 inch of rainfall, in other words, 5 gallons minimum + (3 X 5) 15 gallons = 20 gallons."
• The Pruning and Maintenance of Mature Trees:
  • 'Lifting' or the removal of the lower branch systems,
  • Crown Thinning and
  • Crown Reduction
  • at the bottom of
    pages 38-45
• Explaination of watersprouts and watershoots in the Watersprouts on Trees in Pavements in Funchal, Madeira Page. These should be removed from the trees since they are weakly joind to the branch/trunk from which they originated and are dangerous to use as supports for electricians or tree surgeons; as well as likely to fall down in a storm.

List of Pictures in a Picture Folder:-

Roses in
Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses
on 25 May 2014.
 

Roses Page 1

Rosa 'Alfred Colomb'
IMG 3689.JPG

Rosa 'Alfred Colomb'
IMG 3691.JPG

Rosa 'Alfred Colomb'
IMG 3692.JPG

Rosa 'Alfred Colomb'
IMG 3693.JPG

Rosa 'Attleborough'
IMG 3817.JPG

Rosa 'Attleborough'
IMG 3819.JPG

Rosa 'Attleborough'
IMG 3821.JPG

Rosa 'Baronne Prevost'
IMG 3673.JPG

Rosa 'Baronne Prevost'
IMG 3674.JPG

Roses Page 2

Rosa 'Bonica'
IMG 3713.JPG

Rosa 'Bonica'
IMG 3714.JPG

Rosa 'Bonica'
IMG 3715.JPG

Rosa 'Bonica'
IMG 3716.JPG

Rosa 'Buff Beauty'
IMG 3717.JPG

Rosa 'Buff Beauty'
IMG 3718.JPG

Rosa 'Buff Beauty'
IMG 3719.JPG

Roses Page 3

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3763.JPG

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3764.JPG

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3765.JPG

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3766.JPG

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3767.JPG

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3768.JPG

Rosa californica plena
IMG 3770.JPG

Rosa 'Capel Manor House'
IMG 3668.JPG

Rosa 'Capel Manor House'
IMG 3669.JPG

Rosa 'Capel Manor House'
IMG 3670.JPG

Rosa 'Capel Manor House'
IMG 3671.JPG

Roses Page 4

Rosa 'City of York'
IMG 3755.JPG

Rosa 'City of York'
IMG 3758.JPG

Rosa 'City of York'
IMG 3759.JPG

Rosa 'City of York'
IMG 3760.JPG

Rosa 'City of York'
IMG 3761.JPG

Rosa 'City of York'
IMG 3762.JPG

Rosa 'Comte de Chambord'
IMG 3695.JPG

Rosa 'Comte de Chambord'
IMG 3696.JPG

Rosa 'Comte de Chambord'
IMG 3697.JPG

Rosa 'Comte de Chambord'
IMG 3699.JPG

Rosa 'Comte de Chambord'
IMG 3700.JPG

Roses Page 5

Rosa 'Dunwich Rose'
IMG 3720.JPG

Rosa 'Dunwich Rose'
IMG 3721.JPG

Rosa 'Dunwich Rose'
IMG 3722.JPG

Rosa 'Dunwich Rose'
IMG 3723.JPG

Rosa 'Dunwich Rose'
IMG 3724.JPG

Rosa elegantula persotosa
'Threepenny Bit Rose'
IMG 3772.JPG

Rosa elegantula persotosa
'Threepenny Bit Rose'
IMG 3773.JPG

Rosa elegantula persotosa
'Threepenny Bit Rose'
IMG 3775.JPG

Rosa elegantula persotosa
'Threepenny Bit Rose'
IMG 3776.JPG

Rosa elegantula persotosa
'Threepenny Bit Rose'
MG 3774.JPG

Roses Page 6

Rosa 'Gold Flower Carpet'
IMG 3727.JPG

Rosa 'Gold Flower Carpet'
IMG 3728.JPG

Rosa 'Gold Flower Carpet'
IMG 3729.JPG

Rosa 'Happy Retirement'
IMG 3708.JPG

Rosa 'Happy Retirement'
IMG 3709.JPG

Rosa 'Happy Retirement'
IMG 3710.JPG

Rosa 'Happy Retirement'
IMG 3711.JPG

Rosa 'Happy Retirement'
IMG 3712.JPG

Roses Page 7

Rosa indigo
IMG 3788.JPG

Rosa indigo
IMG 3792.JPG

Rosa indigo
IMG 3794.JPG

Rosa indigo
IMG 3795.JPG

Rosa indigo
IMG 3796.JPG

Rosa indigo
IMG 3797.JPG

Rosa 'Juno'
IMG 3809.JPG

Rosa 'Juno'
IMG 3810.JPG

Rosa 'Juno'
IMG 3811.JPG

Rosa 'Juno'
IMG 3812.JPG

Rosa 'Juno'
IMG 3813.JPG

Roses Page 8

Rosa 'Kazanlik'
IMG 3800.JPG

Rosa 'Kazanlik'
IMG 3801.JPG

Rosa 'Kazanlik'
IMG 3803.JPG

Rosa 'Kazanlik'
IMG 3806.JPG

Rosa 'Kazanlik'
IMG 3807.JPG

Rosa 'Macmillan Nurse'
IMG 3778.JPG

Rosa 'Macmillan Nurse'
IMG 3780.JPG

Rosa 'Macmillan Nurse'
IMG 3782.JPG

Rosa 'Macmillan Nurse'
IMG 3784.JPG

Rosa 'Macmillan Nurse'
IMG 3785.JPG

Roses Page 9

Rosa 'Morning Jewel'
IMG 3682.JPG

Rosa 'Morning Jewel'
IMG 3683.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3738.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3739.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3740.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3741.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3742.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3743.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3744.JPG

Rosa 'Norwich Castle'
IMG 3745.JPG

Roses Page 10

Rosa 'Ophelia'
IMG 3684.JPG

Rosa 'Ophelia'
IMG 3685.JPG

Rosa 'Ophelia'
IMG 3686.JPG

Rosa 'Ophelia'
IMG 3687.JPG

Rosa 'Ophelia'
IMG 3688.JPG

Rosa 'Pearl Drift'
IMG 3731.JPG

Rosa 'Pearl Drift'
IMG 3732.JPG

Rosa 'Pearl Drift'
IMG 3733.JPG

Rosa 'Pearl Drift'
IMG 3734.JPG

Rosa 'Pearl Drift'
IMG 3735.JPG

Roses Page 11

Rosa 'Prosperity'
IMG 3823.JPG

Rosa 'Prosperity'
IMG 3824.JPG

Rosa 'Prosperity'
IMG 3825.JPG

Rosa 'Prosperity'
IMG 3826.JPG

Rosa 'Prosperity'
IMG 3827.JPG

Rosa 'Red Velvet Flower Carpet'
IMG 3747.JPG

Rosa 'Red Velvet Flower Carpet'
IMG 3748.JPG

Rosa 'Red Velvet Flower Carpet'
IMG 3750.JPG

Rosa 'Red Velvet Flower Carpet'
IMG 3751.JPG

Roses Page 12

Rosa 'Reine des Violettes'
IMG 3702.JPG

Rosa 'Reine des Violettes'
IMG 3703.JPG

Rosa 'Reine des Violettes'
IMG 3705.JPG

Rosa 'Reine des Violettes'
IMG 3706.JPG

Rosa 'Sophie's Perpetual'
IMG 3676.JPG

Rosa 'Sophie's Perpetual'
IMG 3677.JPG

Rosa 'Sophie's Perpetual'
IMG 3678.JPG

Rosa 'Sophie's Perpetual'
IMG 3679.JPG

Roses Page 13

Rosa 'Stanwell Perpetual'
IMG 3830.JPG

Rosa 'Stanwell Perpetual'
IMG 3832.JPG

Rosa 'Stanwell Perpetual'
IMG 3837.JPG

Rosa 'Stanwell Perpetual'
IMG 3838.JPG

Rosa 'Stanwell Perpetual'
IMG 3839.JPG

Rose beds
IMG 3752.JPG

Rose beds
IMG 3753.JPG

Plant Labelling - A suggestion for plant labelling to help visitors

A different solution is that each gardening member of the RHS staff at Wisley be provided with Large White Plastic Angled-Head Labels which are 20 inches (50 cms) in height with a 6 x 4 inch (16 x 10 cms) writing surface and a Marker pen with Black ink to provide a good temporary label for the above broken label (in Lost Flowers page) or for missing labels.
Then, the black background permanent label could be ordered at the end of that working day to replace this temporary label, which has been inserted into the ground in front of the relevant plant section.

If you are concerned about these labels going on "Walkabout", then insert another white label behind the plant and make it invisible to the public.

Site design and content copyright ©September 2019.
Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a
courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are
not responsible for the content and/or quality of external
web sites linked from this site.  

Ivydene Gardens Photo Peter Beales Roses Gallery:
Page 1 has photos of Roses from the
rose peter beales may 25 2014 Folder
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses.

Photos taken by Chris Garnons-Williams using a digital camera
in the original size and as a thumbnail.
These can used in the Public Domain for educational purposes
in schools, or at home, to:-

• Assist in selecting a plant.
• assist in designing your garden for the overall structure to
  provide you with mystery so that no point of the garden is
  always visible from other points of the garden to persuade
  you to go outside and look round that corner to see what
  is happening there now,
• assist in selecting areas of the garden for different seasons
  and different uses - spring bulbs in this area, vegetable
  garden in this one leading to a pond etc,
• in the shape of different plants to provide variety instead of
  regimented single shape and single height shrubs, which
  in effect turn into a uniform hedge with possibly different
  foliage colour. This becomes very difficult to maintain as
  these shrubs/trees etc simply intertwine together,
• create areas to be used like a solid effect surface for a
  wheelchair with raised boxes for plants so that the wheelchair
  owner's knees can go under them and he/she can garden
  whilst still in the wheelchair. Also he/she can use a remote
  control to operate cars on this ground surface and race them
  around under these raised beds of ponds, flowers, fruit and
  vegetables with his friends, or
• assist in providing areas to sit down in the garden to have
  a barbeque, a chat with your spouse or simply admire your garden.

Row 1 has the Pass-Through Camera image of Thumbnail image named in Row 2
and is usually 4000 x 3000 pixels.

Row 2 has same image reduced to fit the image frame of 160 x 120 pixels as a
Passthrough Thumbnail to show all of the Camera Image. This image has been
reduced to 72 pixels per inch by Freeway before I stored it as a Passthrough image
for use both here (from August 2019) and as the image in
Plant with Photo Index of Ivydene Gardens A 1 Gallery.

Click on either image and drag to your desktop.
Then you can crop the Pass-Through Camera image to obtain the particular detail
that you require from that image, before using that cropped result in your endeavour.

Copying the pages and then clicking on the images to drag them may not work.

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Alfred Colomb' IMG 3689.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Alfred Colomb' IMG 3691.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Alfred Colomb' IMG 3692.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Alfred Colomb' IMG 3693.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Attleborough' IMG 3817.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Attleborough' IMG 3819.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Attleborough' IMG 3821.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Baronne Prevost' IMG 3673.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
Rosa 'Baronne Prevost' IMG 3674.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
IMG 9558.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

Rose Plant is
IMG 9558.JPG
taken on 25 May 2014 at the Display Garden of Peter Beales Roses by Chris Garnons-Williams

I have copied the archived post below, because what is stated there is extremely important, since 99.99% of
gardeners in the UK totally ignore the fact that plants require humus and think that double-digging is beneficial
every year. That is why they are killing their soil and their plants do not grow well.

How Soil Works in the Category Archives: Flowering House Plants of Houseplantsguru. com:-

"Nature’s plan is to build up the humus year after year and this can only be done by organic matter. There is need
to replace and return that which has been taken out. The Chinese, who are the best gardeners, collect, ‘use’, and
return to the soil, every possible kind of waste, vegetable, animal and human. In over 4000 years of intensive
cultivation they still support more human beings per hectare than any other country in the world! On the other
hand in areas like the Middle West of the U.S.A. And the Regina Plain of Canada, where the Wheel of Life has not
been recognized, tens of thousands of hectares which once grew heavy crops are now useless, or practically so.

Every flower crop grown reduces the organic content of the ground. Every piece of work done helps to break down
the humus. The value of the soil in your garden, therefore, is not the mica particles or grains of sand. It lies in the
humus that the soil contains. Humus makes all the difference to successful gardening. Have plenty of humus
present and the soil is in good tilth. Humus is the organic colloid of the soil. It can store water, it can store plant
foods, it can help to keep the soil open. It can help to ensure the right aeration. It will give ideal insulation against
heat and cold.

Using Compost

Garden owners proposing to dig their land shallowly in preparation for flower growing, should realize the
importance of adding ample quantities of organic matter before they start. Composted farmyard manure, fine
wool shoddy, properly composted vegetable refuse, or hop manure should be added at the rate of one good
barrow-load to 10 m2 (12 sq yds) and in addition into the top 25 or 50 mm (1 or 2 in) of soil finely divided sedge
peat, non-acid in character should be raked in at about half a bucketful (9 litres) per square metre (2 gallons per
sq yd). This organic matter in the top few millimetres of soil gives the little roots a good start and so sends them
on to find the organic matter below.

It is when the organic content of the soil has been helped in this way, that the gardener dares to add plant foods
of an organic origin. These are usually applied on the surface of the ground and raked in. Fertilizers with an
organic base are particularly useful. Fish Manure may be applied at 105 to 140 g/m2 (3 oz to 4 oz per sq yd), or a
meat and bone meal or even hoof and horn meal mixed with equal quantities of wood ashes may be used at a
similar rate. These plant foods can be supplied not only when the flower garden is first made but every season
very early in the spring. A good dried poultry manure to which a little potash has been added is another fertilizer
that is very useful when applied at this time.

Minimum Digging

Flower growers must realize that proper soil treatment is the first essential to success. The millions and millions
of soil bacteria that live in the ground to help the gardener, much appreciate little or no digging. It enables
them to work better, for they need conditions which are natural. So do give them what they need.

Liming

Lime should be regarded as an essential except in very definite cases where acidity is demanded, e.g. the
heaths and heathers, rhododendrons and azaleas.

Lime not only prevents soil from being acid but it ‘sweetens’ it, as well as playing its part as a plant food.
It improves the texture and workability of heavy soils. It helps to release other plant foods, and it
decomposes organic compounds in the soil so that they can be used as plant food also.

Generally speaking it should be applied at about 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd). It should not be dug in, as it
washes down into the soil very quickly. It should be sprinkled on the surface of the ground after the digging
and manuring has been done. Do not mix lime with organic fertilizers. There are three main types of lime:
Quicklime, sometimes sold as Buxton Lime or Lump Lime, which has to be slaked down on the soil;
Chalk or Limestone, often sold as Ground Limestone, only half as valuable as quicklime; and
Hydrated Lime, which is perhaps the most convenient to handle and is therefore most usually used by gardeners.
The quantity of lime mentioned previously i.e. 245 g/m2 (7 oz per sq yd), refers to hydrated lime."
 

The following is the opinion of Chris Garnons-Williams to the above:-

If you walk through an old wooded area, which is not intensively managed, you will see dead leaves on the
ground, together with fallen branches, brambles, nettles, other weeds and juvenile plants. There will be
waste material from birds and animals and this has not been cleared up and disposed of. This mulch then
provides the organic material to be recycled via the ground with its different organisms to the roots of those
same trees for them to continue to grow.
Nobody digs up the ground to push this material in a few inches or to the depth of the topsoil, nature does it
with earthworms and other organisms at the rate required by the organisms down below to then use it. The
trees in this wood then grow fairly uniformly using the available resources.

So, do not dig the manure, wool shoddy, vegetable refuse or hop manure or anything else in. Leave it on top
as a mulch and that includes the organic fertilizers and the lime.
Instead of adding finely divided sedge peat, add spent mushroom compost which contains peat which has
already been used; and so you are using their waste product for recycling, instead of destroying more peat
bogs which have taken 1000's of years to be created. You could use bracken instead of peat.

The topsoil is full of organisms, either the waste products from are used by another or they are. If you turn
them up from the bottom of the topsoil to the top, then those new top ones will starve to death and the ones
who were at the top are now at the bottom and they will as well since it is only waste down there which is
not their normal fare. They do have a bus transport system to get them back to their original levels, since water
is the only transport system down there, which unfortunately normally goes downwards.

So why do you not use the companion planting cultivation method as further detailed in Companion Planting?
You may follow this with the following which is normally used for the vegetable garden:-

"Spinach is sown in spring in rows 50cm apart over the whole vegetable garden area for the following
purposes:

• these rows divide the vegetable garden up for the whole year,
• the spinach roots prevent erosion, so the usual paths between beds are omitted,
• young spinach plants provide protection and shade for the vegetable crops to be grown between them,
• spinach provides ideal material for sheet surface composting, which becomes an intermediate space, a footpath, and
• it is in between these lines of spinach that the other vegetable varieties are arranged."

This could be used in the flower beds as the system between the permanent plants of trees, shrubs
and perennials, which is where you may put bedding. This will also provide you with access to the bedding
and the permanent plants together with the nitrogen fertilizer for the other plants from the legumes of
spinach.
You plant your bedding, bulbs or vegetables through the mulch between the lines of spinach. The damage you
do to where you plant is fairly quickly repaired by the organisms in the surrounding soil, who each come into
the level below the ground level where they normally reside, until they meet their relatives onthe other side of
the planting hole. The ecosystem is then restored.