Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery:
Annual - Annuals with Green Flowers ,
"Raising Annuals in Greenhouse or Frame" by E.H. Jenkins and
List of the Best Annuals and Biennials used in 1916

Ivydene Gardens Stage 2 - Infill Plants Index Gallery:
Annual - Annuals with Green Flowers

Botanical Plant Name

with link to
UK or
European Union
mail-order supplier for you to contact to buy this plant

Flower Colour

Sun Aspect of Full Sun,
Part Shade, Full Shade

with link to external website for photo/data

Flowering Months

with row in each month that it flowers in that colour in
STAGE 4A
12 BLOOM COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY/

with link to
USA or
Canada
mail-order supplier

Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms)

1 inch =
2.5 cms
12 inches = 30 cms
40 inches = 100 cms

Foliage Colour


with row in relevant pages that it has foliage of that colour in
STAGE 4B
12 FOLIAGE COLOURS PER MONTH INDEX GALLERY
or
Background Colour nearest to middle-aged leaf colour from 212 foliage colours /

followed by
Soil Moisture:-
Dry,
Moist,
Wet

with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier

with data for rows in
STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY and
STAGE 4D
SHAPE, FORM INDEX GALLERY
Pages

Plant Type is:-

A for Aquatic
Ann for Annual / Biennial

Ba for Bamboo

Bu for Bulb

Cl for Climber

Co for Conifer

F for Fern

G for Grass

H for Herb

P for Perennial

Rh for Rhodo-dendron, Azalea, Camellia

Ro for Rose

Sh for Shrub

So for Soft Fruit

To for Top Fruit

Tr for Tree

V for Vegetable

W for Wildflower

followed by:-
E for Evergreen,
D for Deciduous,
H for Herbaceous,
Alpine for being an Alpine as well as being 1 of above Plant Type /

 

Acid for Acidic,
Alk for Alkaline,
Any for AnySoil

 

with links to
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES
1, 2, 3 and
STAGE 3
ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES
1, 2 pages
 

Comments

Adjacent Planting

Plant Associations

It is sad to reflect that in England so few gardens open to the public label their plants or label them so that the label is visible when that plant is in flower, so that visitors can identify; and then later locate and purchase that plant.

Few mail-order nurseries provide the detail as shown in my rose or heather galleries.

If you want to sell a product, it is best to display it. When I sold my Transit van, I removed its signage, cleaned it and took photos of the inside and outside before putting them onto an advert in Autotrader amongst more than 2000 other Transit vans - it was sold in 20 minutes.

If mail-order nurseries could put photos to the same complexity from start of the year to its end with the different foliage colours and stages of flowering on Wikimedia Commons, then the world could view the plant before buying it, and idiots like me would have valid material to work with.

I have been in the trade (until ill health forced my Sole Trader retirement in 2013) working in designing, constructing and maintaining private gardens for decades and since 2005 when this site was started, I have asked any nursery in the world to supply photos. R.V. Roger in Yorkshire allowed me to use his photos from his website in 2007 and when I got a camera to spend 5 days in July 2014 at my expense taking photos of his roses growing in his nursery field, whilst his staff was propagating them. I gave him a copy of those photos.

Molucella laevis 'Pixie Bells' (Bells of Ireland)

Supplier

"Give one slightly trickier plant a go, Moluccella laevis (bells of Ireland), which will still be looking good in the garden as you pick your berries and twigs for a wreath at Christmas. This can be stubborn to germinate, but should come up after the shock of a week in the freezer.

Freeze a packet of seed in the next week, sow into a seed tray, then prick out into their own pots for planting in the garden in the middle of May." from how to create summer colour with annual flowers by Sarah Raven in The Telegraph 26 April 2010.

Fragrant pale green flowers and pale green leaves. Easy annual, good cut and good dried. Sun. 30″

Before green flowers became a hot trend, there were bells of Ireland, a flower in cultivation since the 1500’s. These flowers are native to Turkey, not Ireland, but their fresh green color and symbolism of luck derived from the bell shape give them their Irish nickname.

Florists love bells of Ireland for their availability and longevity, and you’ll see them used in wedding flower arrangements as often as in St. Patrick’s day bouquets.

Bells of Ireland grow in all zones, but fare poorly in areas with hot and humid summers.

Many gardeners don’t realize that they’re growing bells of Ireland for their green calyxes, not the tiny white flowers within. These outer green sepals form the showy green “bells” that surround the tiny fragrant flowers within.

Plant bells of Ireland in the garden after the last frost date in your area in average garden soil. Leave seeds uncovered, as they require light to germinate. The seeds are slow to germinate, taking up to a month to produce shoots, so for earlier blooms start them indoors two months before the average last frost date.

Stratification increases the germination rate of bells of Ireland. You can expose them to cold by sowing them outdoors in the fall, or by refrigerating them for a week before starting them indoors.

Maintenance:

Keep bells of Ireland consistently moist.

Bells of Ireland are top heavy, and they may topple over after a heavy rain or in areas exposed to wind. Stake the blooming stalks, grow the compact variety, or grow them in a sheltered area to keep the spires upright.

Bells of Ireland don’t rebloom, so you can remove plants past their prime without guilt. However, you may want to leave them in place long enough for the seeds to mature and scatter, as these annuals are self-sowing.

Design Tips:

Bells of Ireland flowers are easy to dry, and they add interest to fresh cut flower arrangements. The lime green flowers make an attractive foil for wine or magenta colored flowers, like ‘Red Velvet’ celosia,
globe amaranth, or
‘Purple Prince’ zinnias.

If you harvest Bells of Ireland for fresh or dried bouquets, wear gloves to protect your hands from the small spiny thorns that grow along the stems. The stiff calyces of bells of Ireland last up to two weeks in fresh arrangements, but the flowers don’t maintain their green tint as dried specimens. The bells will gradually turn tan when they dry.

Varieties:

Pixie Bells: A compact variety of the heirloom species, topping out at two feet tall

Moluccella laevis (Bells-of-Ireland, Bells of Ireland, Molucca balmis, Shellflower, Shell flower) rumor has it that the pollinator of this Lamiaceae is the common house fly. By ‪CarolSpears, via Wikimedia Commons

Nicotiana langsdorfii

Supplier of Nicotiana langsdorfii from Europe

Supplier of Nicotiana langsdorfii' from USA

Pale apple green tubular flowers flared at mouth dangle delicately. Annual. 36″

Nicotiana are a great family of very long-flowering half hardy annuals, many of them with lovely evening and night scent. Nicotiana are moth pollinated, so pour out the fragrance when the moths are around.

Nicotiana langsdorfii. By Kurt Stueber via Wikimedia Commons

Nicotiana alata (Flowering tobacco)

Supplier

Supplier of Nicotiana alata Grandiflora Plants

Supplier of Nicotiana alata 'Lime Green' from UK
Supplier of Nicotiana alata 'Lime Green' from USA

The best form is still the species N. alata (often called Jasmine Tobacco) which produces tall, graceful stems of pale, nodding flowers with starry faces. Its soft, sweet perfume peaks at dusk on warm nights, attracting exotic pollinators and domestic gardeners to its calming presence. Bloom starts in July and continues into fall in a protected spot. These 3-4ft plants stand up to rough weather without staking and are not fussy about soil. A half day of sun is plenty, which makes it easy to tuck them in near a door or window and get their perfume indoors.

Nicotiana alata 'Lime Green' has velvety, acid-green trumpet flowers that mix with any colour. One of my absolute cutting garden staples.

This tends to get mildew in my garden, so keep it well watered, or to be extra safe, consider a douse of Bordeaux mixture.

Nicotiana are a great family of very long-flowering half hardy annuals, many of them with lovely evening and night scent. Nicotiana are moth pollinated, so pour out the fragrance when the moths are around.

Nicotiana alata. By Carl E Lewis via Wikimedia Commons

Amaranthus caudatus 'Viridis'

Supplier

Amaranthus caudatus 'Viridis' has long, soft tassels of pale, fresh acid-green. This makes one of the best upper level foliage plants for an elegant, mixed arrangement. Perfect for mixing with dahlias and sunflowers, or arranging in a large vase on its own.

Amaranthus caudatus. By Kurt Stüber via Wikimedia Commons

Zinnia elegans 'Benary's Giant Lime'

Supplier

To 3’ tall, we love these large flowered Zinnias with blooms 4”-5” across. Nice double flowers on well-branching plants, Benary’s Zinnias are prolific, drought tolerant & mildew resistant. Grow in the foreground of darker foliage or purple-blue blooming Salvias or mix all the shades for a carnival of color! Excellent cut flower & attracts butterflies! Rich soil for best show.

Echinacea
'Green Jewel'
(coneflower)

Supplier

Position: full sun

Soil: most soils, except very dry or boggy

Flowering period: June to September

Very floriferous in summer, this fresh-faced coneflower sets off rich plums and purples to perfection. It is a neat grower and the tips of the ray-florets have a slightly feathered effect, which gives them a subtle softness.

Echinacea purpurea, flower head before blossom. By tracy from north brookfield, Massachusetts, usa via Wikimedia Commons

Echinacea
'Green Envy'

Supplier

Broad-petalled flowers open deep green, red spreading from the centre as they mature Jul-Oct. Sturdy 90cm, hardy perennial. Found by Mark Veeder - well done!

Petunia 'Crazytunia Green with Envy'

Supplier

Flowering Period: June, July, August, September, October

Position: full sun

Marvel at the unique blooms of Petunia 'Crazytunia Green with Envy' as they slowly change colour before your eyes. The contrasting pink markings gradually takes over each lime green petal until the blooms are almost entirely pink. This compact, upright petunia has a robust habit and superb weather resistance which ensures a brilliant performance throughout summer. Plant them in beds, containers and baskets for a magnificent display that will stop people in their tracks. Height: 25cm (10"). Spread: 30cm (12").

Bupleurum rotundifolium 'Green Gold' (Thorow-Wax, Common Hare's Ear)

Supplier

This useful hardy annual adds zingy spring freshness to borders and cut flower arrangements later on in the season. Euphorbia-like, citrus green flowers bloom on tall stems from July to September. Versatile and easy to grow, Bupleurum riotundifolium 'Green Gold' makes a superb filler for summer borders. Sow it alongside tall Ageratum, such as 'Timeless' for beautiful cut flowers, or interplanted with wildflowers for a stylish Cottage Garden look. If you like the look then let it set seed in late summer for drifts of fresh seedlings next year. Height: 80cm (31"). Spread: 40cm (16").

Flowering Period: July, August, September

Sowing Months: March, April, May

Position: full sun

Bupleurum rotundifolium (sensu Fischer et al. EfÖLS 2008)

Location: field near Niederhollabrunn, district Korneuburg, Lower Austria - ca. 340 m a.s.l.

Habitat: field border. By Stefan.lefnaer via Wikimedia Commons

Hemerocallis

Further information is available from The American Hemerocallis Society

There are so many green varieties of daylilies to choose from; the reblooming ‘Green Flutter’ variety. ‘Green Iceburg,’ ‘Green Puff,’ and ‘Green Glitter’ are some other daylilies that display greenish-yellow blooms. Try planting them alongside one of the hundreds of daylily cultivars that feature green throats.

So, Should You Eat Your Daylilies?

I look forward some day soon to writing an article about eating daylilies where I can affirm that not only are they good for you, they are completely safe to eat. As of now, too much controversy exists about the daylily being a safe food. Until that affirming day, use your judgment, informed by the information referenced in this article and by the advice of real-life daylily-eaters you know, before you introduce this nutritious and beautiful plant into your diet. As with all new and exciting adventures you approach, begin with moderation.

There are more than 330 American Hemerocallis Society Display Gardens throughout the United States and parts of Canada where you can view a variety of modern daylilies in a garden setting.

Gladioli

Further information from The British Gladiolus Society and North American Gladiolus Council

Gladiolus flowers are one of those blossoms that provide gardeners with an acid green accent that pairs well with other neon hued flowers in the garden. Buy the biggest bulbs you can find of green types like ‘Green Star’ to reap dramatic spikes for your flower arrangements. These tender bulbs aren’t hardy in areas colder than zone 8, so you must dig them up if you intend to keep them from year to year.

Green flowers aren't everybody's first choice but if you've ever grown them you know how useful they are for creating a buffer between hot shades. They're also welcome additions to arrangements, framing brighter blooms like foliage does, but with more interesting form. The professional flower arrangers we know wouldn't be without them. Green Star is a very good grower for early season plantings and performs nicely for later plantings, too.

Hellebore

Ashwood Nurseries has 34 Hellebores with green flowers in the UK and Carolyn's Shade Gardens in USA has some

Sometimes called the Lenten Rose because of its early bloom time, the hellebore was recognized as the perennial plant of the year by the Perennial Plant Association in 2005. This perennial is valued for its shade tolerance and hardiness, surviving zone 3 winters if grown in a sheltered area. In addition to mint green flowers, your plants may display white or purple flowers, and cross-pollination often leads to unexpected flower colors.

Would you like to know how to grow hellebores?  Nursery owner John Massey gives his advice and tips on how you can grow hellebores in your garden.

Hellebores are easy to grow providing a few simple guidelines are followed. They prefer a rich soil with plenty of  available moisture during their flowering period, but they also require excellent drainage: they are after all ‘snow-melt’ plants and, if you can grow them on a slope, they will naturally be well drained. Most are found on slightly alkaline soils in their natural habitat, but it really doesn’t matter too much whether the soil is neutral or slightly acidic, so long as there are plenty of nutrients.

During Winter in Bloom (January and February) there are special exhibits and displays with ideas on how to create a beautiful winter garden, plus a programme of hellebore tours, lectures and a garden open day.

Zinnia - a burst of hot flower colors from Zinnias

Supplier of Zinnia ‘Envy’ in the UK and this one in the USA

This flower will prove to you that green really does go with everything. The brilliant chartreuse color of zinnia ‘Envy’ can look cool or electric, depending on whether you pair it with white or bright flowers. Plant this hot weather lover at the same time you set out your tomatoes, when night temperatures average 60 degrees.

Green Flowers for Gardens and Flower Arrangements from Dengarden:-

Green flowers are unusual in a world where people look for more traditional colors. But green blooms can add a unique touch to a flower garden and are often featured in floral designs. In an all white garden, some green flowers add a change where most green appears only in foliage.

In general, pollinators like bees and butterflies are attracted by bright colors. That is why we usually see blooms in shades of red, pink, yellow, and orange. A few oddballs are pollinated by flies. The smell of a flower that attracts flies may be unpleasant to people as flies are famously attracted to the odor of garbage and rotting organic matter.

Some of the green flowers presented here have been hybridized or genetically modified to produce green blooms. Many of these types are hard to grow and are produced by commercial growers. A few are not flowers at all, but large green bracts that resemble blooms.

Orchids - the Largest Group of Green Flowers

There are thousands of orchid varieties that come in many colors, patterns, and forms. The color green can be found in so many types it would be difficult to list them here. Whether small blooms that appear in sprays that make beautiful bouquets or larger flowers used for corsages, green orchids go well with white, pale pinks, or pale yellows.

Phalaenopsis or Moth orchid is a very popular orchid because it is easy to grow for commercial uses and makes a wonderful house plant.

Cymbidium orchids are the thick, waxy flowers seen in old fashioned corsages. They come in various shades of green (as well as other colors) from pale yellowish green to dark green. Cymbidium also appears in a cascading form with small flowers blooming on long pendulous spikes grown in a hanging basket.

Easy to Grow Green Flowers:-

Corsican Hellebore or Helleborus corsicus is a lovely evergreen perennial that blooms in late winter. Round green cup shaped blooms hang below 3 leaflets.

Plant in light shade in moist, well drained soil. Divide rhizomes in Spring after flowering. Corsican hellebores are deer resistant and toxic. They are poisonous if eaten. Handling may cause skin irritation in sensitive people.

Clematis florida Alba plena is a 6 - 8 foot vine with beautiful double blooms that come in cream colored then turn green as they mature. Flowers are 3 - 4 inches wide.

Plant in partial shade or full sun. Cut back dried vine to lowest bud in late winter. Clematis prefer good drainage but enjoy watering during hot summer. The vines need support and will grow nicely on fences or porch rails.

Jack-in-the-Pulpit or Arisaema triphyllum is a low growing woodland plant that is native to the US. The flowering part of the pant is the spike (spandix) that grows in the center of a spathe that wraps around it. The spathe comes in a pale green then matures to a vivid green with purple or brown vertical stripes.The 2 foot tall plant blooms in Spring. Jack-in-the-Pulpit can be grown at home in a shaded area. Do not remove this plant from forests or parks but purchase in garden shops that specialize in native plants.

Jack-in-the-Pulpit is pollinated by flies.

Green Tulips - Green accents occur in several varieties of tulips. Tulip Viridiflora is a white tulip with green shading that blooms late in Spring. Tulip formosa is a yellow flower with a greenish tint. Tulip China town is light pink with green accents. Tulip Greenland is bright pink with green accents. Tulip Spring green is white with vertical green strips.

Plant tulip bulbs in Fall with the pointy side up. Sprinkle bone mean in the hole before covering with soil.

Green Flowering Shrubs:-

Hydrangea paniculata Little Lime or Mini Limelight are hardy, deciduous shrubs that flower in Summer and retain blossoms into Fall. The light green flowers turn pink in Fall.

Hydrangea paniculata Limelight is larger and features 6 - 12 inch bloom clusters. Remove lower branches to produce a tree like form. The flower clusters of Hydrangea paniculata are more cone shaped than the rounded mop head type hydrangea. Cut flowers are long lasting and dry well. The lime green flowers of Limelight turn white with age.

Allow hydrangea paniculata some afternoon shade. Water in hot weather. Plant in US Zone 3 - 8.

Mediterranean Spurge or Euphorbia characias is a shrubby non-succulent euphorbia that grows up to 3 feet tall with a 3 foot spread in US Zone 7 - 11. The stems have a purple tinge with bluish green leaves. Leaves are 4 - 6 inches long and densely packed. There are several green flowering cultivars of this tough,drought resistant plant. Tiny flowers grow inside bright green bracts Spring through Summer.

Mediterranean spurge can be invasive in some areas. Cut flowers before they go to seed to avoid unwanted spread. Grow in full sun with some afternoon shade. This plant produces a toxic sap that can cause skin irritation if touched so wear gloves.

Herbs With Green Flowers:-

Angelica (Angelica Archangelica litoralis) or Wild Celery is an herb native to Northern Europe. A biannual, meaning that it flowers in the second year, Angelica dies after flowering. It grows up to 6 feet tall. Angelica prefers cool, moist soil Tiny light green blooms appear on large umbells. Angelica has medicinal and industrial uses and has been used to produce liquors. Wild celery is beautiful in a cottage or wildflower garden.

Lady's Mantle or Alchemilla vulgaris is a clump forming herbaceous perennial. It is a low growing plant with pretty, scalloped, grayish green leaves. Flowers appear in small clusters from late Spring through Summer. Grows well in US Zone 3 - 8.

This low growing plant does well in rock gardens or in well drained neutral to alkaline soil. Though a slow grower it may be invasive in some areas. Pluck off faded blooms to avoid spread. Lady's Mantle has herbal and medicinal uses.

The name "alchemilla" means "little magical one," perhaps for its ability to hold dew drops, adding a sparkle to the garden in early morning.

Rare Green Flowers:-

Chrysanthemums are popular Fall flowers that make for long lasting cut flowers. Most green chrysanthemums are grown commercially.

Feeling Green is a button mum with tightly packed petals. This perennial is bushy and low maintenance. It produces small, apple green blooms. Grow in full sun in well drained soil. Pinch back buds throughout the summer. (If buds open in hot weather they will not last)

Apple Crisp Green is white with a green center

Anastasia Green is grown commercially. It is hard to find and more finicky than the usual home grown chrysanthemum.

Most carnations in florist shops have been dyed. You can do this at home (but probably not as well) by placing a white carnation in water with green food coloring. Make green edged white carnations by removing the flower just when the edges go green.

Prado is a natural green carnation with very light, mint green petals.

A new "carnation" is making a big noise in some circles. Dianthus barbatus Green Bell and Green Trick are not actually green flowers. These genetically modified Frankenflowers resemble a ball of bright green moss on the end of a traditional carnation stem.

"Raising Annuals in Greenhouse or Frame" by E.H. Jenkins from Chapter 2 of Annuals & Biennials, the best annual and biennial plants and their uses in the garden by Gertrude Jekyll published in 1916 and republished by Forgotten Books in 2012 (Forgotten Books is a London-based book publisher specializing in the restoration of old books, both fiction and non-fiction. Today we have 372,702 books available to read online, download as ebooks, or purchase in print.):-

Annuals roughly divide themselves into 3 classes:

• "hardy", those which may safely be sown in the open air;
• "half-hardy", those which should be raised in greenhouse or frame and subsequently transferred to the open ground; and
• "tender", such as require to be raised and grown under glass, to bring them to perfection.

It should be stated, however, that quite a large number of the obviously hardy kinds are annually sown under glass, some for convenience; others, and these largely in the majority, for market work or commercial purposes. Others, too, as Penstemons and Antirrhinums, which, being perennial, have no claim to be classed among annuals, give such excellent results when treated as such, that each year considerable quantities are sown in warmth under glass during January and February, and with correct cultivation produce sturdy little bushes for planting in the open in April or quite early May. Many perfectly hardy kinds, as Sweet Pea, Cornflower, Nasturtium and Chrysanthemum, are also raised in this way, or, its near equivalent, the frame.

Raising seeds under glass, therefore, be it greenhouse or frame, is possessed of many advantages. In the first place, the seed-pans or boxes are under control. Removed from the interferences of birds and animal pests, and secured from extreme changes of weather, a maximum seed-production results. These are important. It has, however, its drawbacks and disadvantages - pitfalls alike to the amateur and inexperienced, from which the more expert cultivator is immune. They are chiefly errors of cultivation:

• too much heat and moisture, and
• inability to anticipate the need for pricking off or transplanting at the right moment.
• There are errors of judgement. too, which, in conjunction with some or all of the above, may be attended by fatal results or poor success. The worst of these is a too early sowing of the seeds, and, transplanting neglected, thin, lank plants result, and, becoming hide-bound as they not infrequently do, never subsequently develop. It is the over-anxious - often impetuous - and too enthusiastic amateur who invariably does this kind of thing; the more thoughtful worker, having bought and paid for his experience, starting 2 or 3 weeks later, winning in a canter in the end.

Hence, while greenhouse and warmth might prove great time-savers on the one hand, a misuse of them on the other would be prejudicial to good results at the times of planting and flowering. The aim should be to provide sturdy, free-developing plants of medium size at the right moment, to the exclusion of thin and overdrawn, or others of excessive size. The former never develop; the latter rarely transplant well. In these circumstances those thirsting for knowledge would naturally inquire what is
The Right Time to Sow, and what is the right temperature? For the former only an approximate correct date can be given; the requisite temperature may be stated more definitely. As to sowing,

• except for such things as Heliotrope, Lobelia, Verbena, and other fine foliage subjects used in bedding arrangements, and which require to be sown during February or early in March in a temperature in a temperature of 55 degrees Fahrenheit (13 degrees Celcius),
• the majority may be sown from the middle to the end of March, in a temperature of about 45 degrees Fahrenheit (7 degrees Celcius).

From the moment the seed-leaf stage is passed the seed-pans or other receptacles should be arranged near the glass in a light, well-aired position to promote a sturdy growth, transplanting the seedlings when 1 or 2 rough leaves have been formed. Great care and vigilance will be needed in supplying water at such times, and a watchful eye must be kept so that the soil does not dry up too frequently. Chronic root-dryness can only end in failure, and must be guarded against. It is not infrequent where shelves are employed. Arranging the seed-pans on an improvised or temporarily raised stage near the glass on ashes or cocoa-nut fibre is to a great exyent a safeguard against such a happening. Something should also be said in respect of
The Best Receptacles for Sowing - Those most commonly employed are boxes and pans, though pots (Jiffy Pots are very useful with their Jiffy Greenhouses ) will do equally well, if taking more space. Boxes are cheapest, but are liable to dr up quickly. Square seed-pans are somewhat expensive, but, with care, last for years. Practical and experienced cultivators prefer the boxes called "seed-trays". They are light, easily handled, and cheap, and are about 2 inches (5 cms) deep, 9 inches (22.5 cms) wide by 15 inches (37.5 cms) long. The bottom boards are slighlty parted to assist drainage and covered with a little cocoa fibre; no further drainage material is necessary. Pans are procurable in various sizes and should be well drained. Pots, if employed, should be filled to nearly one-half their depth with drainage material. All receptacles should be dry and quite clean.

Soil for Seed Sowing should be fairly rich, finely pulverised by passing through a small mesh sieve, and moderately dry. A mixture of light loam, well-decayed leaf-mould, and sharp sand in about equal parts will be quite suitable. A slight addition of old manure, freed of worms and other insectr life by heating in an oven or under the stoke-hole fire, may also be employed. It is, however, not essential. All receptacles should be made ready in advance, the soil pressed moderatley firm in process of making up, and well saturated with water 24 hours in advance of being required for use. This is important. The covering soil for all seeds should be of the finest description, varying in thickness of 0.125 of an inch (3mms) for the finer seeds to 0.25 of an inch (6mms) for those of larger size. Seeds of certain plants, eg the Chinese Primulas, though moderately large, are impatient of much soil soil covering, a point worth remembering. Begonia and Calceolaria among the finer seeds may be sown practically on the surface, a shilling-thick covering of clean well-washed silver sand sufficing for the purpose.

To prevent loss and to avoid an irregular vegetation of the crop all seeds should be sown on a moderately firm and quite even surface. In the case of pans and boxes, a small section of floor boarding lightly pressed over the surface will accomplish this. In the case of pots the flat base of one of like size as the receptacle will do quite well. With the seeds sown and covered in, all should be watered gently overhead from a fine rose can. From this time onwards to the vegetating of the seeds it is important that neither excess of moisture nor dryness be permitted to exist. Equally important is it that too frequent watering should be avoided. To this end and to avoid undue evaporation of moisture all seed-pans should be protected from strong sunlight by shading with brown paper or thin tiffany. Given this, a mist-like spray from the syringe daily will often suffice for days together. It should be done in the early fornoon. A good plan with the finest, most lightly covered seeds is never to water overhead, but to hold the receptacles nearly their full depth in a vessel containing water for a minute or 2 when necessary. Once the seeds have commenced to grow, the soil should be on no account be suffered to become dry. Many failures are due to this alone. Excess of wet is equally bad, and the "damping-off" fungus (Pythium) resulting, seedlings perish wholesale. With the appearing of the seedlings the permanent shading should be removed, a thinner shade being employed when necessary during strong sunlight a few days longer.

Sowing the seeds thinly - Despite the fact that the injunction to "sow thinly" has been reiterated a 1001 times, the opposite extreme is still a commonplace with gardeners and amateurs alike. Seeds sown after the manner of mustard and cress are hampered from the very moment they appear, and, with timely thinning neglected, foredoomed to partial or complete failure. The thick sowing of seeds of all descriptions is in some measure due to their cheapness, plus not a little ignorance of the early development of the seedling. These things are opposed to success, and a sturdy plant is impossible. Hence once again it is necessary to urge the hackneyed phase, "Sow thinly." The smallest seeds produce often enough large cotyledons (seed leaves), the still larger often laterally disposed rough leaves following immediately, hence the difficulty of laying down any hard-and-fast rule from the seeds alone. On the diameter of a shilling a hundred or five times that number of seeds may find room in a single layer, while to sow them thinly a 10-inch (25 cms) square seed-pan may be none too large. In sowing the smaller seeds a peppering of clean silver sand first given to the sowing area will assist the operator to a more uniform - also thin - distribution of the seeds. On darker soils it is not possible to see where the seed falls.

Thinning and pricking off - These bear some relation to each other and to the seed-sowing, and follow next in order and importance. Timely pricking off, wheile no panacea against the dangers arising from thick sowing, certainly reduces some of its risks ans should be indulged in as early as possible. With many seedlings the appearing of the first rough leaf is considered a good time, the seedlings then having a sufficiently advanced root-system to admit of the work being done with safety. Even in the case of thinly sown seeds, pricking off should not be unduly delayed since the isolation the operation affords in conjunction with better soil is calculated to give the youngster a good start in life. Tap-rooted or sparsely-rooted subjects rarely prick off well, hence the need for greater care in dealing with them. Here a word of warning to the amateur may not be out of place, the professional is already aware of it. It is this. Don not rely too much on the more vigorous seedlings to the discarding of the smaller; the latter give, frequently enough, the finer varieties. The soil for pricking off should be of rougher texture than that recommended for seed-sowing; it should also contain less sand and more finely sifted manure (I tend to favour used cow manure from winter bedding over that from horses).

Raising in frames does not differ materially from raising in the greenhouse, and is, at most, but a question of degree. There are of course, the differences of the warmed and cold frames and each has its own value. A well-managed hot-bed of leaves and manure is indeed, one of the best places to raise seedlings, Cineraria, Calceolaria, Zinnia and China Aster, among others, revelling in the dgree of warmth, humidity, and the ammonia-charge atmospheric conditions that obtain. To some extent the seedling plants, too, are more immune from the attacks of aphides (green and other fly pests) than those raised under ordinary conditions. The ordinarily made dung-bed will require greater care. Excessive heat and rank steam are injurious, therefore to be avoided. Ventilation, too, is important. A safeguard against the former is a shallow bed of manure, say 12 inches (30 cms) thickness when settled down, or 18 inches (45 cms) when first made up. Watering, too, must be done with care, the amount of humidity in the frame and the condensing moisture playing important parts. Watering with tepid water is to be recommended, likewise the use of a thermometer. A temperature between 45-50 degrees Fahrenheit (7-10 degrees Celsius) will do quite well.

The cold frame should occupy a sun-kissed spot. It is of especial value in cold districts and in gardens generally where, by reason of heavy and retentive soil conditions, seed-sowing in the open air rarely brings success. In certain other instances - the small amateur more particularly - the frame often enough is the only bit of glass existing, though, to his credit be it said, it is frequently engineered with skill, and prodigal of good results. As an adjunct to the greenhouse and warmed frame it also merits attention, a two-light frame with division being alike useful for raising seedlings and for hardening off. Seedling-raising in the cold frame is naturally a slower process though assisted by increasing sunlight and sun-heat. At the same time the plants so raised are of a sturdy and hardy nature and with ordinary care transplant well. Mid-March to early April will be found a good time to make a start, keeping the seed-pans or other receptacles quite near the glass. Less water will be needed generally, though soil dryness must always be guarded against. Confined damp - a stuffy condition - whether here or in the heated frame, must be avoided; nothing so much favours the creation and spread of the "damping-off" fungus as this and too frequent watering. In other respects, the cultural conditions already given apply, the measure of success attained being also the measure of the prevailing intelligence and enthusiasm of individual workers.

Annuals and Biennials for Autumn Sowing:-

• Alyssum
• Asperula
• Bartonia
• Cacalia
• Clarkia
• Collinsia
• Cornflower
• Crepis
• Delpinium
• Erysimum
• Eschscholzia
• Gilia
• Godetia
• Gypsophila
• Iberis
• Kaulfussia
• Larkspur
• Lavatera
• Leptosiphon
• Limnanthes
• Linaria
• Nemophila
• Nigella
• Omphalodes
• Papaver
• Phacelia
• Platystemon
• Saponaria
• Scabiosa
• Silene
• Sweet Pea
• Sweet Sultan

"Alphabetical list of the best Annuals and Biennials in 1916" from Part II of Annuals & Biennials, the best annual and biennial plants and their uses in the garden by Gertrude Jekyll published in 1916 and republished by Forgotten Books in 2012 (Forgotten Books is a London-based book publisher specializing in the restoration of old books, both fiction and non-fiction. Today we have 372,702 books available to read online, download as ebooks, or purchase in print.):-

h.a denotes hardy annual
(See its Page)

height in inches (cms)

h.h.a denotes half-hardy annual
(See its Page)

height in inches (cms)

g.a denotes greenhouse annual
(See its Page)

height in inches (cms)

biennial
(See its Page)

height in inches (cms)

Alyssum maritimum (Sweet Allyssum)

6 (15)

Ageratum mexicanum

18 (45)

Browallia speciosa major

12 (30)

Althaea rosea (Hollyhocks are really perennials, but they are commonly grown as biennials)

Anagallis indica (Blue Pimpernel)

12 (30)

Alonsoa warscewiczii

18-24 (45-60)

Celosia plumosa (The Feathered, not the Crested Cockscomb

Anchusa italica (A perennial, but best treated as an annual)

36-60 (90-150)

Antirrhinum (Snapdragon is a short-lived perennial in some soils and best treated as an annual)

Amarantus

12-36 (30-90)

Cobaea scandens

Bellis perennis (Double Daisy, They are more or less perennial, but they are apt to deteriorate and are best treated as biennials)

Argemone (Mexican Poppy)

36 (90)

Arctotis grandis

18 (45)

Campanula pyramidalis (Chimney Bellflower - A short-lived perennial, but usually treated as a biennial)

60-84 (150-210)

Asperula azurea setosa (Blue Woodruff)

9 (22.5)

Bartonia
is h.a or h.h.a

18 (45)

Cheiranthus cheiri (Wallflower)

9-24 (22.5-60)

Borago officinalis (Borage)

24 (60)

Brachycome iberidifolia (Swan River Daisy)

12 (30)

Dianthus barbatus (Sweet William)

Cacalia coccinea

12 (30)

Callistephus hortensis (China Aster)

Digitalis purpurea

60-84 (150-210)

Calendula officinalis (Pot Marigold)

18 (45)

Cosmos bipinnatus

72 (180)

Erygium giganteum (Silver Thistle)

36 (90)

Campanula macrostyla

24 (60)

Cucurbita (Gourd)

Campanula medium (Canterbury Bell)

24-36 (60-90)

Datura

Centaurea cyanus (Cornflower)

24-36 (60-90)

Dianthus (Indian Pink)

9 (22.5)

Centaurea moschata (Purple Sweet Sultan), Centaurea margarita (White) and Centaurea suaveolens (Yellow Sweet Sultan)

18-24 (45-60)

Diascia barberae

9 (22.5)

Chenopodium atriplicis purpurascens (Atriplex hortensis)

Didiscus coeruleus

18 (45)

Chrysanthemum

24-36 (60-90)

Dimor-photheca aurantiaca

12 (30)

Clarkia elegans and Clarkia pulchella

24 (60)

Eccremocarpus scaber

Collinsia bicolor

12 (30)

Collomia coccinea

12 (30)

Convolvulus major (Ipomaea purpurascens)

96-120 (240-300)

Convolvulus minor (Convolvulus tricolor)

12 (30)

Coreopsis tinctoria

36 (90)

Crepis barabata rubra (Hawkweed)

12 (30)

Delphinium (Larkspur)

24-48 (60-120)

DESIGNING WITH ANNUALS
How to use annual plants and flowers to add personality to your garden
By Jenny Andrews:-

As garden centers start to fill up with enticing displays of annuals, it's easy to grab everything you can and think about where to plant it all later. If you want a cohesive design (face it, we all know that looks better), here are a few essential tips for designing with annuals:

• Before you get in your car to go plant shopping, evaluate the areas in your garden where you want annuals. Measure the size of the spaces, know the sun and shade patterns throughout the day, think about how the areas will be viewed and take stock of what plants are nearby.

• In a bed of strictly annuals — unless you're buying a mix of plants that is intended to go together, as with some pansies — stick to larger quantities of a few types of plants, rather than the overbusy look of a few of everything.

• Not all plants need to have flowers to be great additions to the garden. Foliage plants such as coleus, Persian shield, 'Magilla' perilla, Joseph's coat and copper leaf add color and texture whether used as filler or focal point.

• Color combinations can complement, contrast or match. Too much contrast can be jarring, and too much of the same color can be monotonous. Use several colors in a limited palette that work well together for a cohesive and pleasing look. Arrange samples on the ground at the garden center to see if they will work — chances are, if they look good together in a flat, they'll look good in the garden!

• Repeat colors and forms to lead the eye through the garden.

• Use a variety of textures to give the garden energy. Too many plants with either a fine or a bold texture can be boring to look at.

• If you're tucking annuals into a perennial bed, keep in mind the ultimate sizes of the annuals and the perennials so that none of the plants are later overwhelmed by their neighbors.

STAGE 2
INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERY 1 PAGES

Site Map

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages

Website Structure Explanation and User Guidelines

Plant Type
 

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements

Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers)

Alpine Shrubs and Conifers

The Alpine Meadow
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3

The Alpine Border
1, 2

Alpine Plants for a Purpose

The Alpines that Dislike Lime 1, 2

Alpines and Walls
Dry Sunny Walls 1a, b
Tops of Walls 2a, b
Dry Shady and Conifers 3a, b

Alpines and
Paving
1, 2

Sink and Trough gardens
1, 2

Aquatic
(Water Plants) for

Anti-erosion River-bank

Marginal Plants (Bog Garden Plants)
1, 2

Oxy-genating Weeds

Water Lilies

Floating Plants

Water-side Plants
and Plants for Dry Margins next to a Pond
1, 2

Wildlife Pond Plants

Annual for

----------------

Exposed Sites

Sheltered Sites with Green-house Annuals from 1916

Extra Poor Soil with Half-Hardy Annuals from 1916

Very Rich Soil with Biennials from 1916

Gap-filling in Mixed Borders with Hardy Annuals from 1916

Patio Con-tainers

Cut Flowers
1, 2, 3 Ever-lasting Flowers with Red Flowers from 1916

Attract-ing bene-ficial insects
1, 2

Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916

Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers

Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals
1, 2

Low-Growing Annuals
1, 2

Medium-Growing Annuals

Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916

Black or Brown Flowers

Blue to Purple Flowers

Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916

Red to Pink Flowers and Cut Flowers
Page
1, 2, 3

White Flowers
1, 2

Yellow or Orange Flowers
1, 2

Dec-orative Foliage

Moist Soil

Shade
1, 2

House-plants with Yellow Flowers from 1916

Edging Beds

Hanging Baskets

Vining Annuals

Bedding for

Spring Bedding

Summer Bedding

Autumn/ Winter Bedding

Bedding for Light Sandy Soil

Bedding for Acid Soil

Bedding for Chalky Soil

Bedding for Clay Soil

Black Flowers

Blue Flowers

Orange Flowers

Pink Flowers

Long Flowering

Coloured Leaves

Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths

Purple Flowers

Red Flowers

White Flowers

Yellow Flowers

Multi-Coloured Flowers

Aromatic Foliage or Scented Flowers

Bedding Plant Use

Flowers with 2 Petals

Flowers with 3 Petals

Flowers with
4 Petals

Flowers with 5 Petals

Flowers with 6 Petals

Flowers with more than 6 Petals

Use in Hanging Baskets

Flower Simple Shape

Shape of
Stars

Shape of
Bowls, Cups and Saucers

Shape of
Globes, Goblets and Chalices

Shape of
Trumpets and Funnels

Shape of
Bells, Thimbles and Urns

Use in Pots and Troughs

Flower Elabo-rated Shape

Shape of
Tubes, Lips and Lobes

Shape of
Slippers, Spurs and Lockets

Shape of
Hats, Hoods and Helmets

Use in
Screen-ing

Use in
Window Boxes

Shape of
Stand-ards, Wings and Keels

Shape of
Discs and Florets

Shape of
Pin-Cushions and Tufts

Shape of
Rosettes, Buttons and Pompons

Use in Bedding Out

Use in
Filling In

Biennial for

Cottage and Other Gardens
1, 2

Cut Flower with Biennials for Rock Work from 1916

Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory

Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916

Scent with Biennials for Sunny Banks or Borders from 1916

Bulb for
--------------
Explan-ation Intro to Bulbs
--------------
725 Blue, White, Yellow, Unusual Colour, or Red-Purple-Pink flowering Bulbs in each month they flower.

Indoor Bulbs for
Dec-ember
January
February

Indoor Bulbs for
March
April
May

Indoor
Bulbs for
June
July
August

Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember
October
November

Bulbs in Window-boxes
1, 2

Bulbs in the Border

Bulbs natural-ised in Grass

Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in
Dec-Jan
Feb-Mar

Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in
Apr-May
Jun-Aug 1, 2, 3, 4

Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in
Sep-Oct
Nov-Dec

Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens

Bulbs for the Bulb Frame

Bulbs in the Wood-land Garden

Bulbs in the Rock Garden

Bulbs in Green-house or Stove

Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums

Clivias,
Colo-casias, Crinums, Cyclam-ens, Cyrt-anthuses, Euchar-ises, Urceo-charis, Eurycles

Freesias, Gloxinias, Hae-manthus, Hipp-eastrums

Lachen-alias, Nerines, Lycorises, Pen-cratiums, Hymen-ocallises, Richardias, Sprekelias, Tuberoses, Vallotas, Watsonias, Zephy-ranthes

Bulbs in Bowls

Bulbs in the Alpine House

Hardy Bulbs

Aconitum, Allium, Alstroe-meria, Anemone 1, 1a

Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline,

Aspho-delus, Belam-canda, Bloom-eria, Brodiae, Bulbo-codium

Calo-chorti, Cyclo-bothras, Camassia, Col-chicum, Con-vallaria,
Forcing Lily of the Valley, Corydalis, Crinum, Crosmia, Mon-tbretia , Crocus

Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis

Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis

Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots,
Scilla, Pusch-kinia, Chion-odoxa, Chiono-scilla, Muscari

Iris,
Kniphofia, Lapey-rousia, Leucojum

Lilium,

Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots

Orni-thogalum, Oxalis, Paeonia, Ran-unculus, Romulea, Sanguin-aria,
Stern-bergia,
Schi-zostylis, Teco-philaea, Trillium

Tulip,
Zephy-ranthus

Half-Hardy Bulbs

Acidan-thera, Albuca, Alstroe-meri, Andro-stephium, Bassers, Boussing-aultias, Bravoas, Cypellas, Dahlias, Galaxis,
Geis-sorhizas, Hesper-anthas

Gladioli, Ixias,
Sparaxises, Babianas, Morphixias, Tritonias

Ixio-lirions, Moraeas, Orni-thogal-ums, Oxalises, Phaedra-nassas,
Pan-cratiums, Tigridias, Zephyr-anthes, Cooper-ias

Bulbs for Bedding

Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for
Spring
1, 2
or
Summer
1, 2

Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with

----------
Choosing the right Plant

1a.
The Base -
Base of Wall Plants

1b.
Annuals

1c.
Herbs and Vege-tables

1d.
Cut
flowers, Cut Foliage

1e.
Scented flower or foliage

1f.
Foliage use only

2a. 1,2,3,4
The Prime - Wall Shrubs

2b.
Fruit trees

3a.
The Higher Reaches -
House-wall Ramblers

3b. 1,2
Non-House-Wall - Climbing Twiners

3c.
Non-House-Wall - Self-clinging Climbers

Raised
Bed for Wheel-chair Users

Plants for Wildlife-Use as well

Fastest Covering

Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained

1, 2
Evergreen

Use as
Hedge

Exposed Positions

Use as Ground-cover

1,2
Ornam-ental Fruit

Scented Flowers

1, 2
Autumn Foliage Colour

Winter Bark

Winter and Early Spring Flowers

Summer Colour or Shape of Foliage

Edible Fruit

Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house

Large
Pots and Con-tainers
1, 2

Cut Flowers

Attractive to Bees

Climber - Simple Flower Shape

Stars

Bowls, Cups and Saucers

Globes, Goblets and Chalices

Trumpets and Funnels

Salver-form

Bells, Thimbles and Urns

Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape

Tubes, Lips and Straps

Slippers, Spurs and Lockets

Hats, Hoods and Helmets

Stand-ards, Wings and Keels

Disks and Florets

Pin-cushions, Tufts, Petal-less and Cushions

Umbels, Buttons and Pompoms

Site design and content copyright ©April 2016.
Top menus revised June 2018. Chris Garnons-Williams.

DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site.  

Ivydene
Horticultural
Services

Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:-
This comprehensive book looks at scented flowers and leaves of plants from all over the world. The work has been prepared to the standards of the Index Kewensis, and is filled with the most interesting facts about the scented flora of the world.

I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to
The RHS Companion to Scented Plants Hardcover – 16 Oct 2014 by Stephen Lacey (Author), Andrew Lawson (Photographer) ISBN 978-0-7112-3574-8 even though this is the only major reference work on scent and scented plants which is endorsed by the Royal Horticultural Society. See reasons for stopping infilling of previous Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page.

The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines.

The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
described in Sanders' Encyclopedia of Gardening in The Gardeners' Golden Treasury, revised by A. G. L Hellyer F.L.S, Editor of 'Amateur Gardening', (thirty-first impression of original published in 1895) was published in 1960 by W. H. & L. Collingridge Limited,
between:-

• Stage 1 - Garden Style Index Gallery (in this Table) and Stage 1 Fragrant Plants (in Table on left), then
• Stage 2 - 3 Infill Plants Index Galleries (in Table on right), then
• Stage 3a - All Plants Index Gallery with each plant species in its own Plant Type Page followed by choice from Stage 4a, 4b, 4c and/or 4d REMEMBERING THE CONSTRAINTS ON THE SELECTION FROM THE CHOICES MADE IN STAGES 1 AND 2 (in this Table)
• Stage 3b - All2 Plants Index Gallery for Alpines without a Garden for your health and productivity (in this Table)
• Stage 4a - 12 Bloom Colours per Month Index Gallery (in Table on right)
• Stage 4b - 12 Foliage Colours per Month Index Gallery (in Table on right) with
  column for Deciduous / Herbaceous plants with the same foliage colour during their growing season and
  column for Evergreen plants with the same foliage colour during the entire year
• Stage 4c - Cultivation, Position, Use Index Gallery (in Table on left)
• Stage 4d - Shape, Form Index Gallery (in Table on left)

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY
It would be useful if when you decide to change your garden that you use a uniform garden style throughout your garden and the GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY aims to provide pointers.
The new pages (April 2016) in the gallery will have a suitable list of plants on each page (as that plant gets further detailed in the ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY), then each row containing that plant name in the GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY will also be updated. I aim to input details of plants starting with A in alphabetical order to Z.

Private Garden Design:-
What is your Budget and What are the purposes for your garden?
Designing for a purpose: Areas which require answers before answering your Designing for a Purpose Questionaire.
Then, do the Site Survey with Photographs, before putting the Current Garden Design on paper or in your computer.
Using the Broad Design elements of Scale, which Garden Style to use:-
Low Maintenance Garden Style, Cottage Garden Style, Wildlife Garden Style or Japanese Garden Style and the
Hard and Soft Landscaping elements, create the Broad Proposed Design. Then, the Detailed Design of each Hard Landscaping item followed by the Soft Landscaping elements: The Soil, changing the Microclimate; and the
Plant Selection is influenced by the Colour Wheel, with Plant Quantities determined by time to establish versus width between plants and Companion Planting will provide helpful neighbouring plants
or
Click on text in cells below to jump to that page describing that data.

Container
Gardening at my work-place

<----

Yes
|
v

Do you want to garden and grow plants?

No

Cannot be bothered.
If you wish to improve your productivity and health, then, plant an Alpine Pan in your work area or at home using the information within Alpines without a Garden by Lawrence D. Hills, using these pages:-

Potted
House-plant

<----
|
|
v

No
Garden

At Home with Gard-ening Area

Yes

---->

Balcony Garden or Roof Garden

Yes
---->

Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden

Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour

STAGE 3b
ALL2 PLANTS INDEX GALLERY
|
v

Conservatory Gardening

|
<--
|

|
No
-->

Outside Garden
|
v

Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
6, 7, 8, 9, 10,
11, 12, 13, 14,
15

The beginner's dozen for the small pan

Plants for the pan gar-den

Stovehouse for Tropical Plants

|
<--

An extra dozen for the larger pan

Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices

|
|
v

Miniature trees and shrubs for pan

The leafy soil pan

The gritty soil pan

The Limy Soil Plan

Blue Flower Colour Pan Plants

Lilac, Violet and Purple Flower Colour Pan Plants

Reds, Carm-ines Flower Colour Pan Plants

Pinks Flower Colour Pan Plants

White Flower Colour Pan Plants and Bicol-ored

Yellow Flower Colour Pan Plants

Blue Flower Colour Trough Plants

Violet, Lilac and Purple Flower Colour Trough Plants

|
|
v

Reds and Carm-ines Flower Colour Trough Plants

Pinks - all shades Flower Colour Trough Plants

Yellow Flower Colour Trough Plants

White and Cream Flower Colour Trough Plants

Bi-colour-ed Flower Colour Trough Plants

Feb Flower Season Pan

Mar Flower Season Pan

Apr Flower Season Pan

May Flower Season Pan

Jun Flower Season Pan

Jul Flower Season Pan

Aug Flower Season Pan

Sep Flower Season Pan

|
|
v

Oct Flower Season Pan

Nov Flower Season Pan

Pans for Semi-shade

Pans for In-doors

Mini-ature Pot

Feb Flower Season Trough

Mar Flower Season Trough

Apr Flower Season Trough

May Flower Season Trough

Jun Flower Season Trough

Jul Flower Season Trough

Aug Flower Season Trough

Sep Flower Season Trough

|
|
v

Oct Flower Season Trough

Nov Flower Season Trough

Dec Flower Season Trough

Bulb Pan

Bulb Cover-ing Carp-eters

Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5

Trough and Window-Box Background Colour

Pan Plant
Alpines without a Garden

ABC 1
Pan Plants

DEF 1
Pan Plants

GHI
Pan Plants

JKL 1
Pan Plants

|
|
v

MNO 1
Pan Plants

PQR 1
Pan Plants

STU 1
Pan Plants

V 1
Pan Plants

WXYZ 1
Pan Plants

You need to know the following:-
1. How much time per week are you prepared to look after your garden or prepared to pay someone else to do it for you?
2. How much are you are prepared to spend on creating your garden and then on its maintenance for its feeding and replacement of its plants and hard landscaping?
3. In order for you to go into your garden, there must be mystery in it, so that from any position in the house you cannot see all the garden, otherwise you will not be tempted to go out into it.
4. You must decide what garden style you are going to use THROUGHOUT the garden and make sure of using 3. the mystery in it as well.
5. What plants do you want to keep in your existing garden and incorporate into your new garden?
6. What Human Problems do you have and what Site Problems are there?

A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the
B) Bee Pollinated Bloom in Month galleries and
C) extra Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers.

<----

Human Prob-lems
v

---->

Blind,
Deaf,
in a Wheelchair, or
you cannot bend easily

Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above

Classic Mixed Style

<----

Cottage Garden Style

<----

.
v

---->

Naturalistic Style

Formal English Garden

Mediterranean Style

<----

Meadow and Corn-field

<----

.
.
v

---->

Paving and Gravel inland,
Coastal Conditions near the sea, Seashore with shingle/sand

Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above

Exposure to Wind

<----

Excess Shade

<----

Exce-ssively Dry Shade

<----

<----

.
.
.
.
.
v

---->

Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants

Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage

Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden

Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay.

<----

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
v

---->

Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house.
2. Clay soil of Garden slopes towards house with no drainage of this rainwater by the house wall.

In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:-
1. The ground plan usually depends upon 1 or more unalterable existing features. The position of the doors of the house will dictate the positions of paths, the shortest route to the kitchen may indicate the best place for a paved area for eating and drinking out of doors, or the kept trees/shrubs may indicate what garden style is used.
2. Rules of Proportion -
A. A border should be roughly 1/2 as wide as the hedge or wall behind it.
B. The proportion of planted areas to paved or turfed areas should be 1/3 to 2/3, or a 1/4 to 3/4, not 1/2 and 1/2.
C. Within a bed or border, unless a 2-dimensional pattern on the ground is the objective, the height and bulk of the plants should be varied to avoid monotony; it is particularly important to provide strong planting, in terms of either height or bulk or both, at either end of a long bed.
D. The ground surface provides a background to the plants that is as important as the hedges, walls or fences that surround it. Grass is perhaps the most satisfying carpet to use, the cool green forming a restful antidote to the dancing colours of the flowers. Use different coloured pea-shingle inside Cedar Gravel for people in wheelchairs, or infirm in their legs or who suffer from Hay Fever.

Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders.
ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:-

|
v

After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:-

Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders

Fragrant Plants:-
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Leaves 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Bark 1, 2, 3
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for an
Acid Soil 1, 2, 3, 4
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Chalky or Limestone Soil 1, 2, 3, 4
Shrubs bearing Scented Flowers for a
Sandy Soil 1, 2, 3
Herbaceous Plants with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3
Herbaceous Plants with Scented Leaves 1, 2, 3
Annual and Biennial Plants with Scented Flowers or Leaves 1, 2
Bulbs and Corms with Scented Flowers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5
Scented Plants of Climbing and Trailing Habit 1, 2, 3
Winter-flowering Plants with Scented Flowers 1, 2
Night-scented Flowering Plants 1, 2
Scented Aquatic Plants.
Plants with Scented Fruits.
Plants with Scented Roots 1, 2
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Wood.
Trees and Shrubs with Scented Gums.
Scented Cacti and Succulents.
Plants bearing Flowers or Leaves of Unpleasant Smell 1, 2

Flower Perfume Group:-
Miscellaneous Group with scents - Balm, Brandy, Cedar, Cloying, Cowslip, Cucumber, Damask Rose, Daphne, Exotic, Freesia, Fur-like, Gardenia, Hay-like, Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hops, Hyacinth, Incense-like, Jasmine, Laburnham, Lilac, Lily of the Valley, Meadowsweet, Mignonette, Mint, Mossy, Muscat, Muscatel, Myrtle-like, Newly Mown Hay, Nutmeg, Piercing, Primrose, Pungent, Resinous, Sandalwood, Sassafras, Seductive, Slight, Soft, Stephanotis, Sulphur, Starch, Sweet, Sweet-briar, Tea-rose, Treacle and Very Sweet.

Flower Perfume Group:-
Indoloid Group.
Aminoid Group with scent - Hawthorn.
Heavy Group with scents -
Jonquil and
Lily.
Aromatic Group with scents - Almond,
Aniseed, Balsamic,
Carnation, Cinnamon, Clove,
Spicy and
Vanilla.
Violet Group.
Rose Group.
Lemon Group with scent -
Verbena.
Fruit-scented Group with scents -
Apricot,
Fruity,
Green Apple,
Orange, Pineapple,
Ripe Apple , Ripe Banana and
Ripe Plum.
 

Flower Perfume Group:-
Animal-scented Group with scents -
Cat,
Dog,
Ferret,
Fox,
Goat,
Human Perspiration,
Musk,
Ripe Apple and
Tom Cat.
Honey Group.
Unpleasant Smell Group with scents -
Animal,
Fetid,
Fishy,
Foxy,
Fur-like,
Garlic,
Hemlock,
Manure,
Nauseating,
Perspiration,
Petrol,
Putrid,
Rancid,
Sickly,
Skunk,
Stale Lint
Sulphur and
Urinous,

Leaf Perfume Group:-
Turpentine Group.
Camphor and Eucalyptus Group.
Mint Group.
Sulphur Group.
Indoloid Group.
Aminoid Group.
Heavy Group.
Aromatic Group.
Violet Group.
Rose Group.
Lemon Group.
Fruit-scented Group.
Animal-scented Group.
Honey Group.

Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Aromatic Group.
Turpentine Group.
Rose Group.
Violet Group.
Stale Perspiration Group.

Scent of Fungi Group:-
Indoloid Group.
Aminoid Group.
Sulphur Group.
Aromatic Group.
Rose Group.
Violet Group.
Fruit Group.
Animal Group.
Honey Group

Sense of Sight

Emotion of
Hot /Cool; Calm / Agitated

Emotion of
Low-key / High Key

<----

.
.
.
v

Emotion of
Inviting
/ Forbidding

Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional

Sense of Touch

Sense of Taste

Sense of Sound

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for
lists of plants of 1 plant type for 1 cultivation requirement is in Table on right

STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY
Click on Blue or underlined text to jump to page comparing flower thumbnails of that blue colour in the
Other Plant Photo Galleries. RedPP is Red, Pink, Purple and Other is Unusual or Other Flower Colour.

Plant Type
with links to Other Plant Photo Galleries

ABC

DEF

GHI

JKL

MNO

PQR

STU

VWX

YZ

Alpine in Evergreen Perennial,
Herbaceous Perennial and Rock Garden

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Aquatic

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Annual/ Biennial

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Bamboo

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Bedding, 25
RHS Mixed Border Beds 75 and
Flower Shape, Flower Colour and Bedding Plant Use

1

Blue

1

Green

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

RedPP

1

Purple

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Bicolour

Other Flower Colours

White / Colour Bicolour

Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of
Allium / Anemone, Colchicum / Crocus, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Narcissus and Tulip

1

Blue

1

1

1

1

RedPP

1

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape

1

Blue

1

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

RedPP

1

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Conifer

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour

1

Blue

1

1

1

1

RedPP

1

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Deciduous Tree

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals

1

Blue

1

1

1

1

RedPP

1

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour

1

Blue

1

1

1

1

RedPP

1

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Evergreen Tree

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Fern with 706 ferns
within 21 types and 41 uses

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Grass

1

1

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

Herbaceous Perennial 91,
RHS Mixed Border Beds 176 and
Peonies 46 with Flower Colour/Shape

1

Blue

1

1

1

1

RedPP

1

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Herb

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Odds and Sods

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Rhododendron, Azalea, Camellia

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use

1

1

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

RedPP

1

 

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Other

Soft Fruit

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Sub-Shrub

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Top Fruit

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Vegetable

1
 

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

1

Wildflower 1918 with
Plants used by Egg, Caterpillar, Chrysalis and Butterflies in the UK
I am inserting the plants described in Sanders' Encyclopedia of Gardening into STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY

1

Blue

1

Green

1

Orange

1

Pink

1

Red

1

Purple

1

White

1

Yellow

1

Multi-colour

Cream

Mauve

Brown

Shrub and Small Tree

Botanical Names Page

Common Names Page

Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed.
Companion Planting - A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, N, O, P, Q, R, S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z
Pest Control using Plants

STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY
The planning a Rose Garden chapter from Rose Gardens by Jane Fearnley-Whitingstall ISBN 0 7011 3344 9 and
Plant Solutions by Nigel Colborn provides information for this gallery.

STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left

STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY
In addition to these 10 galleries, there are links to the Other Plant Photo Galleries in the table above like Bulb , which have plant descriptions accessed by clicking a flower thumbnail in its flower comparison page. Click the respective flower colour - like Green - to change page to that flower colour comparison page. Then, you can also choose these other plants.
It will also state the Plant Combinations for each plant from The Ulimate Visual Guide to Successful Plant Harmony - The Encyclopedia of Planting Combinations by Tony Lord ISBN 1-55209-623-8

STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Some extra details about the Cultivation Requirements of Plant:- Outdoor /Garden Cultivation, Indoor / House Cultivation, Cool Green-house Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter, Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year, and Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants

Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
I worked for a lady, who with her husband took 35 mm slides of plants in the 1960's and 1970's. She allowed me to digitise some of her Kodachrome slides, which I have used in my website. I discovered that at least the green colour of the foliage became very much darker over that period of years to 2008, by comparing wildflower photos from her slides with digital photos supplied by a current Wildflower mail-order nursery, so I stopped creating my Foliage Galleries.
I bought myself a camera some years ago and started taking photos, some of which have been put into the website. I started taking photos of the Heathers at the Royal Horticultural Society at Wisley garden. I have displayed the Heathers foliage in closeup since their leaves are 2mm long and in macro-scale in the Heather Galleries - sometimes the foliage colour at the terminal end of the foliage stem is only a few leaves, whereas others have the same foliage colour throughout the stem. I discovered that some of the heathers did not have the correct plant label, since the flower colour did not correspond with the flower colour in the literature. I was informed that since kids have free rein, that perhaps they move the plant labels. Since, I cannot rely that the heather plant label next to the heather plant is valid, I have stopped taking photos of those heathers.
This leaves a small problem, especially since very few gardens open to the public have their plants labelled so that the public can use the data on their label to buy that named plant from a nursery or garden centre. Currently (June 2018) I insert photos from Wikimedia Commons as well as my own.
I have found the above book - which does not contain any colour plant photos. Since it had the following experts help in creating it, I have decided to use its information in these 10 galleries to help the public:-

• T.W. Sanders Editor of Amateur Gardening in 1895.
• A.J Macself Editor of Amateur Gardening in 1926 - both Sanders and Macself had worked entirely to the handlists published by the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew
• A.G.L. Hellyer in this work of revision and also in checking the all-important cultural notes sought the help of experts in the various classes of plant:-
  • Mr S.A. Pearce, Assistant Curator at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew undertook the revision of those genera of plants which in this country are mainly grown under glass.
  • Mr Will Ingwersen dealt with the Rock plants,
  • Mr N. Catchpole made himself responsible for trees and shrubs;
  • Mr G.A Phillips for herbaceous plants,
  • Mrs Francis Perry for water plants,
  • Mr A.J. Macself for ferns,
  • Mr E. Cooper for orchids,
  • Mr J.S Dakers for annuals,
  • Miss Doreen Crowther for fruit and vegetables

with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet.
In this edition of the book Sander's Encyclopaedia, the individual soil mixtures to grow plants have been retained, for it was considered that many gardeners might still wish to use them in certain circumstances. The John Innes mixtures may be substituted wherever desired. Details of these individual mixtures will be put into these galleries.