Ivydene Gardens Stage 4c - Cultivation Requirements, Position and Use Index Gallery: |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 4c - Cultivation Requirements, Position and Use Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
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Pages of Growing Plants for the Church:- |
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Growing Plant Material for the Church chapter in Flowers in Church by Jean Taylor. Published by A.R. Mowbray & Co, Ltd. originally in 1976 and New Impression 1981 states the following:- Many members of the congregation may be happy to grow plant material for the church flower arrangements, especially if they know what is wanted. Some plants are more useful than others because they may last well when cut; provide berries or seedheads, preserve or dry successfully; provide reliable foliage. In a church the roof is higher than at home, spaces are larger, light can be dimmer. This means that taller stems, definite shapes, brighter colours are more effective. If a number of people set aside a small part of their garden to grow flowers for the church, one member's garden is not denuded of colour to provide cut flowers.
Longlasting flowers
Hardy Perennials |
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Achillea filipendula |
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July |
24 x 230 |
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Angelica archangelica |
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Arum italicum |
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Astilbe |
July |
30 x 18 |
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Astilbe 'Rheinland' |
June, July |
18-24 x 18 (45-60 x 45) |
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August, September |
48 x 24 |
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August, September |
8-12 x 10 |
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Bergenia (Elephant's ear) |
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Mid-Pink
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March, April, |
12 x 16 |
Mid Green that turns Dark Red in Winter |
Bergenia is a tough and hardy grower that thrives in just about any position. It can’t be beaten as an evergreen ground cover plant. |
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Pure White
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March, April |
18-24 x 26 (45-60 x 65) |
Dark Green |
Companion plants to Bergenias are Omphalodes, Brunnera macrophylla, Hamamelis, Primula, Helleborus, Ophiopogon and Chaero-phyllum. |
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Red |
March, April |
18-24 x 24 (45-60 x 60) |
Dark Green, bronze tinged |
Bergenias are good for softening edges of beds, at their best when mass planted. Use with bulbs whose flowers will rise above the leaves. |
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Purplish-Red |
March, April |
21 x 24 |
Reddish-Green foliage that turns Purple in Winter |
Leave the dead bergenia leaves on to provide the ground cover and prevent light reaching annual weed seeds to germinate them.. This plant has "bright magenta flowers. Inter-planted with yellow tulips will form an absolutely stunning display in Spring. |
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Bright Carmine-Pink |
April, May |
15 x 15 |
Dark Green |
Further details about Bergenia species from Wikipedia. |
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Purple-Red |
March, April |
18 x 12 |
Dark Green in Spring, then Purple foliage in winter. |
Clump-forming form. Harbours snails!! See Pest Control in Companion Planting to provide plants to ward off snails. |
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White turning Pink with age, Red centre |
April, May |
12-18 x 26 (30-45 x 65) |
Dark Green |
Strong grower. Common names of Elephant's Ears, Pigsqueak, Megasea. |
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Chrysan-themum maximum (Shasta Daisy) 'Wirral Supreme' |
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Cortaderia (Pampas grass) |
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White. |
June, July |
60-100 x 40-60 |
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Curtonus paniculatus |
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Purple. |
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Cynara cardunculus |
Purple. |
June, July, August, September |
60 x 48 |
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Cynara scolymus (Globe artichoke) |
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July, August, September |
60 x 18 |
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Doronicum 'Harpur Crew' (Leopard's bane) |
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Eremurus (Foxtail lily) |
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Eryngium (Sea-holly) |
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Eryngium alpinum |
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Eryngium giganteum (Miss Willmott's ghost) |
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Euphorbia (Spurge) polychroma |
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Euphorbia robbiae |
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Euphorbia characias |
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Euphorbia wulfenii |
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Filipendula |
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60-100 x 20-40 |
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September, October, |
60 x 18 |
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Helenium decapetalus |
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Helleborus foetidus |
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Hosta (Plantain lily) |
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Deep Violet |
August |
20 x 36 |
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July |
36 x 48 |
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HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL Gallery with 7 Flower Colours (Red, Pink and Purple on same page) per Month in Colour Wheel. Click on Black or White box in Colour of Month. |
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To compare |
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HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL INDEX -
The respective flower thumbnail, months of flowering, height and width, foliage thumbnail, form thumbnail use and comments are in the relevant index page below:- |
FLOWER COLOUR RANGE IN 71 PARTS OF RHS WISLEY MIXED BORDER DURING
The variety of plants that can be used in alpine gardening is obviously very large and very bewildering at first approach. With a view to easing the task of selection here are lists of alpines most likely to thrive and flourish under certain easily defined conditions and for special purposes, with The standard potting and seed-soil recipes from The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills are at the bottom of the page on Alpine - Sink and Trough Gardens. |
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with 7 Flower Colours - Blue, White, Yellow, Green for Unusual, Red, Orange and Pink per Month in Colour Wheel below. Click on Black or White box in Colour of Month. |
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The Herbaceous Perennials in this gallery are not compared with other Herbaceous Perennials in the HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL GALLERY, but they are compared with each other in the Mixed Border Garden Design Gallery using the above 7 Flower Colours per month Wheel. |
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Ivydene Gardens Stage 4c - Cultivation Requirements, Position and Use Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name from Growing Plant Material for the Church chapter in Flowers in Church by Jean Taylor. Published by A.R. Mowbray & Co, Ltd. originally in 1976 and New Impression 1981. with link to |
Church Use from Growing Plant Material for the Church chapter in Flowers in Church by Jean Taylor. Published by A.R. Mowbray & Co, Ltd. originally in 1976 and New Impression 1981. |
Flowering Colours from The Judith Blacklock Encyclopedia of Flower Design by Judith Blacklock. Published by The Flower Press Ltd in 2011 ISBN-13: 978-0- |
Months of Usage in Church from The Judith Blacklock Encyclopedia of Flower Design by Judith Blacklock. Published by The Flower Press Ltd in 2011 ISBN-13: 978-0- |
Flower Form of Round, or Foliage Form of Round, from The Judith Blacklock Encyclopedia of Flower Design by Judith Blacklock. Published by The Flower Press Ltd in 2011 ISBN-13: 978-0- |
Comments from The Church Garden chapter of Church Flowers by Judith Blacklock. Published by The Flower Press Ltd. Reprinted 2017. ISBN-13: 978-0-9552391 and Flower Arranging The Complete Guide for Beginners by Judith Blacklock. Published by The Flower Press Ltd in 2012. |
Form
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Achillea filipendula 'Coronation Gold' Other Achillea (milfoil, yarrow) have flowers from April-July of yellow, gold, white, peach, pink and terracotta. |
Dries well. |
Mustard-yellow flowers in dense, flattened, plate-like, compound corymbs up to 4 inches (10 cms) across on stiff, erect stems typically rising 24-36 inches (60-90 cms) tall. |
April-July |
Round |
Easily grown in the garden. It dries well on the stem, so if you are looking for fresher flowers search for stems that are greener rather than brown. The tiny flowers making up the bloom should not be crushed or broken. Achillea millefolium is available in gentler colours - cream, pink and lemon - but the stems and flowers are not as robust. Plant randomly amongst ornamental grasses such as Stipa calamagrostis. |
Alchemilla mollis (Lady's mantle) Flowers from April-November of yellow, green. |
Long flowering. |
Tiny, star-shaped, chartreuse flowers in loose, spreading clusters atop stems rising above the foliage to 12-18 inches (30-45 cms) in June. It has long-stalked, circular, scallop-edged, toothed, pleated, soft-hairy, light green leaves (to 6 inches - 15 cms -across) each with 9-11 shallow rounded lobes. |
April-November |
Spray |
The lime-green flower is perfect in any bouquet of mixed flowers. Grow it in your garden in a shady spot and it will spread as a useful groundcover under shrubs in shade and part shade. Triteleia laxa 'Koningin Fabiola' provides vibrant saphire flowers to mounds of soft lime-green Alchemilla mollis. Both plants enjoy well-drained soil. |
Angelica archangelica Flowers from June-August of greenish-white |
Short-lived, seeds itself. |
Tall green Seedheads In the first year, it produces a clump of compound leaves. In the second year, a hollow-but-stout stem rises to 72 inches (180 cms) tall bearing numerous tiny greenish-white flowers combined to form large, globular, compound umbels (each to 6 inches - 15 cms - diameter). |
June-Sep The flowers bloom in early summer of the second year, followed by seed that ripens in that late summer. Plants die after the seed ripen. |
Spray of flowers in second year with Line of leaves in first year. |
Easily grown in rich, slightly acidic, medium to wet soils in full sun to part shade. Do not allow soils to dry out. This plant is a biennial (plants die after producing seed in the second year) that produces foliage in the first year and flowers in the second year. Plants may be grown from seed and may self-seed in optimum growing conditions if spent flower umbels are not removed. May also be propagated by root cuttings taken in the second year. Space new plants 48-72 inches (120-180 cms) apart in the landscape. |
Arum italicum (Italian arum, Italian lords-and-ladies) All parts of this plant are toxic. |
Good winter leaves |
After bloom, the leaves and spathe die back leaving only the thick spadix which develops attractive, bright orange-red berries in August. |
Dec-Aug Each flower during May-July consists of (1) an erect, finger-like spadix covered with minute, creamy white flowers and (2) a large, sheath-like, light green spathe (bract) which subtends and partially envelops the spadix like a hood. Flowers produced in spring. |
Line Flower, Line Seedhead with Round leaves New leaves emerge in autumn (September) and are evergreen in warm winter climates. Arrowhead-shaped, long-petioled, glossy grayish-green leaves with pale green midribs are 8-12" long. In all climates, foliage goes dormant in summer from late May. |
Best grown in medium moisture, consistently moist, humusy, organically rich soils in part shade to full shade. |
Astilbe |
Plume-like heads Astilbes’ flower clusters vary in size from 6 inches to 2 feet (15-60 cms) and their height ranges from 6 inches to 5 feet (15-150 cms), depending on the variety. |
White ('Deut-schland'), Pink (chinensis var. pumila), Red ('Fanal'), Peach |
April-November |
Line Flower A water-loving plant that dries out quickly. Check that the leaves are not curling or the tips wilting through lack of moisture. The National Collection of Astilbe is held at Marwood Hill Gardens, Barnstaple, Devon. |
Astilbes prefer a site that receives light to moderate shade; they will burn in full sun. |
Bergenia (Elephant's ear. Pigsqueak for the sound it makes when 2 leaves are rubbed together) |
Large, short-stemmed leaves for all the year |
Bergenias will grow a spike from 12 to 16 inches (30-40 cms) tall, and the tiny, bell-shaped blooms will cover the spikes in pink, white or purple flowers. These flowers remain for a number of weeks, then begin to die off. |
March-May for flowers and new spring foliage. Rest of year for mature foliage which may be tinged purple in winter. |
Round foliage and There is a National Collection of Bergenia at Cambridge University Botanic Garden. |
They prefer any good, deep, fairly heavy soil in light shade beneath tall trees. Plant 12-18 inches (30-45 cms) apart early in the spring. Keep the dead, brown leaves on the plant to provide ground cover from year to year - it prevents the germination of summer weed seeds because they are shaded from the sun. Mulch with 2 inch (5 cms) depth of leaf compost after planting. |
Chrysan-themum maximum (Shasta Daisy) 'Wirral Supreme' |
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Double White |
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Cortaderia (Pampas grass) |
Tall, everlasting grass |
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Crambe cordifolia |
Very big. |
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Curtonus paniculatus |
Acormous plant with giant montbretia-type flowers |
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Cynara cardunculus (Cardoon) |
Grey-green leaves, for pedestals. |
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Cynara scolymus (Globe artichoke) |
Use its seedheads. |
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Delphinium elatum |
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Doronicum 'Harpur Crew' (Leopard's bane) |
Yellow, daisy-type flowers |
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Eremurus (Foxtail lily) |
Tall, spikey flowers. |
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Eryngium (Sea-holly) |
Dries well |
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Eryngium alpinum |
Fluffy bracts |
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Eryngium giganteum (Miss Willmott's ghost) |
Big (dies after flowering) |
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Euphorbia (Spurge) polychroma |
Bright yellow in spring |
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Euphorbia robbiae |
Rosette-shaped foliage |
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Euphorbia characias |
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Euphorbia wulfenii |
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Filipendula |
Closely related to Spiraea and useful 'filler' |
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Helenium autumnale |
Long-lasting, daisy-type flowers |
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Helenium decapetalus |
Long-lasting, daisy-type flowers |
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Helleborus foetidus |
Apple green flowers in winter. |
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Hosta (Plantain lily) |
Summer foliage in many variations |
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A useful book on Perennials is the Hillier Gardener's Guides Herbaceous Perennials by Andrew McIndoe and Kevin Hobbs. Published by David & Charles in 2005. ISBN: 0 7153 2024 6. |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
STAGE 4C |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
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Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
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Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
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Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
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Annual for ----------------
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Cut Flowers |
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Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
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Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
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Vining Annuals |
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Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
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Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
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Bedding Plant Use |
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Use in Hanging Baskets |
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Flower Simple Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Use in Pots and Troughs |
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Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in |
Use in |
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Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in Bedding Out |
Use in |
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Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
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Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
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Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
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Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
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Hardy Bulbs
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Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
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Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
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Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
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1a. |
1b. |
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2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
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Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
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Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
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Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
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Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape |
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DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
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I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
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The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
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Saving the Common Yew at St. Margarets Church, Rainham, Kent (written 31 July 2009 for the congregation). Over the years, damage has occurred to the branches coming from this multi-trunked yew tree. Some of this is where a branch has broken off or broken at the junction with its trunk leaving a jagged edge. When it rains, the water collects in this jagged edge and provides a carrier for rot bacteria to enter and break down the strength of the Heartwood. This has happened down the middle of most of the trunks. Mr Noakes (Churchwarden) and I are excavating and removing as much of this rot as possible before replacing it with Polycell Expanding Foam (which contains Diphenylmethane-4, 4-diisocyanate) and empty bottles. The empty bottles reduce the number of cans of Polycell Expanding Foam used. This Foam is normally used in the construction industry to fill the space between Windows and Walls and thus prevent draughts round the edge of the windows. In this case, it fills all the space occupied by the removed rot and if any beastie tries eating it, it will be killed by the cyanate in it. This also prevents the bacteria from having access to air/rain; thus hopefully stopping any further internal rot. Unfortunately the Foam is attacked by light, becomes brittle and flakes off, so we are painting it twice with Black Masonry Paint to prevent that. The Masonry Paint is a plastic film which is flexible, so if the tree moves the paint will move with it rather than cracking apart. |
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The following Diagram is from Wikipedia.org/wiki/wood.jpg:-
When a tree grows it has Bark on the outside, which is the tree's growth area.
Inside that are the xylem sections which are responsible for the transport of water and soluble mineral nutrients from the roots throughout the plant.
Inside that is Heartwood. Heartwood is wood that has become more resistant to decay as a result of deposition of chemical substances (a genetically programmed process). Once heartwood formation is complete, the heartwood is dead. Some uncertainty still exists as to whether heartwood is truly dead, as it can still chemically react to decay organisms, but only once (Shigo 1986, 54).
The Bark and Xylem sections on the outer part of the trunk or branch are quite thin. The Heartwood does the structural support of the entire tree. The Heartwood is dead and therefore if anything attacks it, the tree cannot defend itself from woodworm, wet rot, dry rot, honey fungus etc. Therefore if the Heartwood is exposed it needs to be defended against attack. It used to be done using concrete, but unfortunately concrete shrinks when it cures and therefore it allows for air and water to get at the heartwood again. If the tree bark and cambium layer is broken apart all the way round a trunk so that the lower liquid in it cannot connect with the liquid in the higher trunk, then all the trunk above that will die. Some of the branches have fallen away from the trunk and are almost on the ground, but are supported on thin branches from them to the ground (the next paragraph explains how we will provide nutrients for these thin branches in the ground). We will replace the rot at the trunk-branch connection with Foam and apply the Masonry Paint. All the exposed Heartwood on these branches and the rest of the tree will also be liberally painted with the Black Masonry Paint to prevent woodworm or anything else from eating or changing it thus removing its function of holding up the rest of the tree. The colour of the paint is immaterial but black is easy to buy and does not draw attention to the fact that 20% of the tree will have to be painted, unless you wish us to create a painted work of art! The roots of a tree are generally embedded in earth, providing anchorage for the above-ground biomass and absorbing water, air and nutrients from the soil. It should be noted, however, that while ground nutrients are essential to a tree's growth the majority of its biomass comes from carbon dioxide absorbed from the atmosphere. Some of the area round the tree has been used to dump the subsoil from digging graves. Subsoil has no nutrients and so is not a benefit for the yew tree. We can change the subsoil into topsoil by mulching it with organic material which the worms will take down into this subsoil. It is suggested that all the flowers and foliage from the church and churchyard are placed on top of the pile of branches on the ground next to the trunk between 9.00 and 10.00 o’clock when looking at the tree from Station Road. These can then be spread over the area (under the tree not cut by the lawnmowers) before covering it over with a thin layer of shreddings of tree prunings to make it look tidy. The shreddings will come from professional tree surgeons; and as they decompose this mulch will replenish the minerals for the tree. You will notice in a natural wood, that when the leaves and branches fall on the ground, they are not removed but are recycled by the worms and bacteria for the trees to reuse the minerals for future growth. This new mulch will duplicate this natural process in a neater fashion. This repair and restorative work will take some time for David and I to complete. |
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The Yew Tree of St Margaret’s Church, Rainham, Kent, written by Clifford Hansford. Contributory Member of the Ancient Yew Group www.ancient-yew.org
Observations of the tree’s current restoration/conservation work now nearing completion, 15th February 2010. The following observations have been recorded in response to a request from Tim Hills (Ancient Yew Group) for information relating to the particular method currently being used to rescue and protect the above yew from further decay. It is hoped that the information will be of use to assist Mr Russell Ball, President of the United Kingdom & Ireland International Society of Arboriculture, in assessing the methods’ acceptability for such a task. Having learned of the tree’s plight from a colleague at the Kent Wildlife Trust, and visited the yew on Sat’ 13th February with Mr Chris Garnons-Williams, who is undertaking the work, my understanding of the situation is as follows:- 1: This yew (recorded in the AYG Gazetteer) is believed by the church to be an ancient yew of approximately 1300 years old. 2: Concern was raised by members of the church regarding the way in which the open centre of the yew retained water. Such water retention was believed to be accelerating the decay already prevalent in this area of the yew. Also, it was noted that other areas of the yew were displaying similar symptoms, particularly where a large branch had partially broken away from the main trunk. 3: Having engaged the services of Chris Garnons-Williams, the proprietor of Ivydene Horticultural Services (www.ivydenegardens.co.uk) a horticulturalist, it was agreed to implement the current method of recovery and conservation as Chris has proved it successful when used on other types of tree. Firstly, all old decayed material is removed. All hollows and cavities are then back-filled with a combination of empty bottles (supplied by the pub next door to the church) and expandable polystyrene foam. The bottles are used to help fill the cavities, thus saving money on the use of foam. Care is taken to ensure the foam forms around the bottles, and mates with all areas of surrounding heartwood. Finally two coats of black masonry, water based paint is applied to both the foam and locally exposed heartwood (Without a paint covering the foam decays if directly exposed to sunlight). 4: To date £700 has been spent on this work, (£200 donated directly by a group of church members and the remainder supplied from church funds). Notes: An assortment of different size bottles, ranging from whiskey and wine (large bottles) to the smaller fruit juice bottles, are used depending on the size of the cavities/gaps to be filled. In hindsight, Chris would recommend the use of high-pressure water to remove the decayed wood rather than screwdrivers and other blade-type implements. The residual water left from the process would help to set the expandable polystyrene foam. Work started in August 2009, with a break during the cold weather, and is still ongoing. A further five to ten days is anticipated for completion. All old, firm wood has been left in situ. Lots of new shoots are now forming. Between Chris and myself we were able to measure the girth of the yew as being 26 feet at its base. It just so happened that on the day Chris and I met for the first time (13 Feb 2010), the church had its annual open day. This gave me an opportunity to learn from church members how very determined they are to preserve this much respected yew.
Western facing aspect.
View of Eastern aspect.
View of Southern aspect
View of Northern aspect which indicates the open centre before preservation action.
View of Northern aspect with Clifford Hansford - after preservation action.
Bottle-filled foam repair.
View showing filled split in a limb growing from a fallen branch. . Information about this yew tree on 22 March 2020 from rainhamchurch.co.uk website. |
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IMPROVING ST BARTHOLOMEWS CHURCHYARD, CAN YOU HELP? I visited this churchyard on 19 May 2013 and found that the clearing work I had started in July 1999 had been considerably further extended, so now there is a glorious view beyond the church of the surrounding hills and valley. The current very elderly yew trees on the left as one comes into the churchyard have rotten open trunks, which could have the earth removed from inside together with the heartwood rot using trowels and chisels. Then, use a high-pressure water hose to remove yet more of the internal rot, before following what was done to protect the Common Yew at St. Margarets Church, Rainham, Kent as detailed in this Introduction Page . |
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IMPROVING ST BARTHOLOMEWS CHURCHYARD, CAN YOU HELP? Written for the congregation in July 1999 when I was clearing its weeds and brambles as the volunteer. I mulched round the shrubs/trees with the shredded prunings and mown weeds.
The following plants are all rabbit-resistant, suitable for clay soils and for flower arranging. The areas under the yew trees have been used by the gravediggers for the excess soil. The intention is to plant around these trees to make the churchyard more attractive and to provide the church flower arrangers with foliage and flowers throughout the year . |
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Plant |
Attractive to Birds (Bi), Bees and Butterflies (Bb) |
Scented Flowers (Sc), Aromatic Foliage (Ar) |
Uses in flower arranging/ Churchyard |
Ajuga |
Bb |
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Miniature arrangements/ Groundcover. Plant with the irises and geraniums |
Aucuba japonica ‘Rozannie’ and ‘Variegata’ |
Bi |
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All-year-round shiny foliage with berries in autumn and winter/ Groundcover. Plant with orange-cupped daffodils |
Berberis |
Bi, Bb |
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Foliage spring to autumn with flowers in spring and berries in autumn/ Groundcover and autumn foliage |
Buddleia davidii |
Bi, Bb |
Sc |
Fragrant flowers in summer/ |
Choisya ternata ‘Sundance’ |
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Ar |
Fragrant flowers in summer with yellow foliage all year/ Groundcover. |
Cotoneaster adpressus praecox and dammeri |
Bi, Bb |
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/Groundcover. Plant with buddleia and ribes |
Eucalyptus gunnii |
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Ar |
Silver-blue foliage all year/ |
Geranium |
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Ar |
Flowers late spring to autumn / Groundcover |
Hypericum androsaemum and Calycinum |
Bi, Bb |
Ar |
Golden-yellow flowers summer to autumn/ Groundcover |
Iris |
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Winter to early summer flowers/ Groundcover |
Lonicera |
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Sc |
Scented flowers in summer and autumn/ Climber |
Narcissus (Daffodil) |
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Sc |
Spring flowers/ |
Rhododendron |
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Sc, Ar |
Foliage all year with flowers in summer/ Groundcover |
Ribes alpinum ‘Aureum’ |
Bi, Bb |
Sc |
Spring flowers/ |
Rosa |
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Sc |
Scented summer and autumn flowers/ Groundcover bushes |
Rosa |
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Sc |
Scented summer flowers/ Climber |
Solidago ‘Goldenmosa’ |
Bb |
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Summer and autumn long-stemmed flowers/ |
Spiraea japonica |
Bb |
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Spring flowers/ |
Syringa meyeri ‘Palibin’ |
Bb |
Sc |
Fragrant spring flowers/ |
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Soil contains living material that requires the right structure and organic material to provide food for plants. If the structure of the soil tends towards a loam of about 20-50% sand, silt and 20 - 40% clay with a pH between 6 and 7.5, then this suitable for a high proportion of plants. Otherwise an application of a mulch of sand and horticultural grit for clay, or clay and horticultural grit for sand, is required to improve plant growth. If an annual mulch of organic material (Spent Mushroom Compost, Cow Manure, Horse Manure does contain weed seeds and should only be used under hedges or ground-covering trees/shrubs) is applied of 100mm (4”) thickness to the soil, then the living material in the soil can continue their role of feeding the plants. This mulch will stop the ground drying out due to wind or sun having direct access to the ground surface. The annual loss of organic matter from soils in cool humid climates is about 6lbs per square metre. If there is also a drip-feed irrigation system under the mulch (which is used for 4 continuous hours a week - when there is no rain that week from April to September), then the living material can get their food delivered in solution or suspension. If the prunings from your garden are shredded (or reduced to 4” lengths) and then applied as a mulch to your flower beds or hedges, followed by 0.5” depth of grass mowings on top; this will also provide a start for improvement of your soil. The 0.5" layer can be applied again after a fortnight; when the aerobic composting stage (the aerobic composting creates heat and 0.5" - 1 cm - thickness does not become too hot to harm the plants next to it) has been completed during the summer. Anaerobic (without using air) composting then completes the process. Application of Seaweed Meal for Trace Elements and other chemicals required to replenish what has been used by the plants in the previous year for application in Spring are detailed in the How are Chemicals stored and released from Soil? page.
You normally eat and drink at least 3 times every day to keep you growing, healthy and active; plants also require to eat and drink every day. Above 5 degrees Celcius plants tend to grow above ground and below 5 degrees Celcius they tend to grow their roots underground. 2 minor points to remember with their result-
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Soils and their Treatment
Soil Improvement |
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and • Watering Schedule - Far and away the best course of action against slugs in your garden is a simple adjustment in the watering schedule. Slugs are most active at night and are most efficient in damp conditions. Avoid watering your garden in the evening if you have a slug problem. Water in the morning - the surface soil will be dry by evening. Studies show this can reduce slug damage by 80%.
• Seaweed - If you have access to seaweed, it's well worth the effort to gather. Seaweed is not only a good soil amendment for the garden, it's a natural repellent for slugs. Mulch with seaweed around the base of plants or perimeter of bed. Pile it on 3" to 4" thick - when it dries it will shrink to just an inch or so deep. Seaweed is salty and slugs avoid salt. Push the seaweed away from plant stems so it's not in direct contact. During hot weather, seaweed will dry and become very rough which also deters the slugs.
• Copper - Small strips of copper can be placed around flower pots or raised beds as obstructions for slugs to crawl over. Cut 2" strips of thin copper and wrap around the lower part of flower pots, like a ribbon. Or set the strips in the soil on edge, making a "fence" for the slugs to climb. Check to make sure no vegetation hangs over the copper which might provide a 'bridge' for the slugs. Copper barriers also work well around wood barrels used as planters.
• Diatomaceous Earth - Diatomaceous earth (Also known as "Insect Dust") is the sharp, jagged skeletal remains of microscopic creatures. It lacerates soft-bodied pests, causing them to dehydrate. A powdery granular material, it can be sprinkled around garden beds or individual plants, and can be mixed with water to make a foliar spray.
• Electronic "slug fence" - An electronic slug fence is a non-toxic, safe method for keeping slugs out of garden or flower beds. The Slugs Away fence is a 24-foot long, 5" ribbon-like barrier that runs off a 9 volt battery. When a slug or snail comes in contact with the fence, it receives a mild static sensation that is undetectable to animals and humans. This does not kill the slug, it cause it to look elsewhere for forage. The battery will power the fence for about 8 months before needing to be replaced. Extension kits are availabe for increased coverage. The electronic fence will repel slugs and snails, but is harmless to people and pets.
• Lava Rock - Like diatomaceous earth, the abrasive surface of lava rock will be avoided by slugs. Lava rock can be used as a barrier around plantings, but should be left mostly above soil level, otherwise dirt or vegetation soon forms a bridge for slugs to cross.
• Salt - If all else fails, go out at night with the salt shaker and a flashlight. Look at the plants which have been getting the most damage and inspect the leaves, including the undersides. Sprinkle a bit of salt on the slug and it will kill it quickly. Not particularly pleasant, but use as a last resort. (Note: some sources caution the use of salt, as it adds a toxic element to the soil. This has not been our experience, especially as very little salt is used.)
• Beer - Slugs are attracted to beer. Set a small amount of beer in a shallow wide jar buried in the soil up to its neck. Slugs will crawl in and drown. Take the jar lid and prop it up with a small stick so rain won't dilute the beer. Leave space for slugs to enter the trap.
• Overturned Flowerpots, Grapefruit Halves, Board on Ground - Overturned flowerpots, with a stone placed under the rim to tilt it up a bit, will attract slugs. Leave overnight, and you'll find the slugs inside in the morning. Grapefruit halves work the same way, with the added advantage of the scent of the fruit as bait.
• Garlic-based slug repellents
Laboratory tests at the University of Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (UK) revealed that a highly refined garlic product (ECOguard produced by ECOspray Ltd, a British company that makes organic pesticides) was an effective slug killer. Look for garlic-based slug deterrents which will be emerging under various brand names, as well as ECOguard.
• Coffee grounds; new caffeine-based slug/snail poisons - Coffee grounds scattered on top of the soil will deter slugs. The horticultural side effects of using strong grounds such as espresso on the garden, however, are less certain. When using coffee grounds, moderation is advised. |
UKButterflies Larval Foodplants website page lists the larval foodplants used by British butterflies. The name of each foodplant links to a Google search. An indication of whether the foodplant is a primary or secondary food source is also given. Please note that the Butterfly you see for only a short time has grown up on plants as an egg, caterpillar and chrysalis for up to 11 months, before becoming a butterfly. If the plants that they live on during that time are removed, or sprayed with herbicide, then you will not see the butterfly. |
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Plants used by the Butterflies follow the Plants used by the Egg, Caterpillar and Chrysalis as stated in |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April |
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Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
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Cabbages - Large White eats all cruciferous plants, such as cabbages, mustard, turnips, radishes, cresses, nasturtiums, wild mignonette and dyer's weed |
Egg,
|
40-100 eggs on both surfaces of leaf. |
May-June and August-Early September. 4.5-17 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
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Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
July or August; hatches in 3 days. |
|
Cabbages:- |
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
|
Cherry with |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
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Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
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(Common CowWheat, Field CowWheat) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Currants |
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
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Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on oak or pine tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 15 days in May-June. |
|
Dog Violet with |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
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Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
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False Brome is a grass (Wood Brome, Wood False-brome and Slender False-brome) |
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
... |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf or stem. |
Hatches after 10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid in the tight buds and flowers. |
May-June 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
1 then |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg at base of plant. |
Late August-April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
10 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
|
Nasturtium from Gardens |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf. |
May-June and August. 7 days. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk |
15 days in July. |
||
Mountain pansy, |
Egg, Chrysalis |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. 3 weeks in September |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on tree trunk. |
15 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid under the leaf or on top of the flower. |
7 days in August. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 16 days in June. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of a flower bud on its stalk. |
7 days. |
||
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg under leaf. |
|
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
6 days in May-June. |
|
Egg, |
Groups of eggs on upper side of leaf. |
- |
||
Egg, |
1 egg laid on underside of leaflets or bracts. |
7 days in June. |
||
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on underside of leaf or on stalk. |
July-August for 17 days. |
|
Violets:- |
Egg, |
1 egg on stem or stalk near plant base. |
July to hatch in 8 months in March. |
|
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. |
2 weeks. |
||
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
||
Egg, |
1 egg on leaf. 5 or 6 eggs may be deposited by separate females on one leaf. |
14 days in July-August. |
||
Willow |
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches encircling the branch of the food plant. |
Hatches after 18-22 days in April. |
|
Egg, |
Eggs laid in batches on the under side of the leaves. |
Hatches after 20 days in July. |
||
Plants used by the Butterflies |
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Plant Name |
Butterfly Name |
Egg/ Caterpillar/ Chrysalis/ Butterfly |
Plant Usage |
Plant Usage Months |
Asters |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
|
|
Runner and Broad Beans in fields and gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Aubretia in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Holly Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Buddleias |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Wood White |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
|
Cabbage and cabbages in fields |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October |
||
Adonis Blue |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Pale Clouded Yellow |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Cow-wheat |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
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Germander Speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys - Birdseye Speedwell) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
30 days in May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-September |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
May-June for 18 days. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
||
Painted Lady |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
|
Marigolds in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June or August till killed by frost and damp in September-November |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September. |
||
Michaelmas Daisies |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September. |
||
Narrow-leaved Plantain (Ribwort Plantain) |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
|
Nasturtiums in gardens |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
April-June or July-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats sap exuding from trunk. |
April-Mid June and Mid July-Early September for second generation. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
May-June. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-October. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
July-May |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
7 weeks in July-August. |
||
Comma |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
July-October. |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
3 weeks between May and September |
||
Trefoils 1, 2, 3 |
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
1 Month during Mid-May to Mid-June or during August-September |
|
Butterfly |
Eats nectar. |
20 days in August. |
||
Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June.
|
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Butterfly |
Eats nectar |
June-July |
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Apple/Pear/Cherry/Plum Fruit Tree Blossom in Spring |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
April-May |
|
Rotten Fruit |
Butterfly |
Drinks juice |
July-September |
|
Tree sap and damaged ripe fruit, which are high in sugar |
Butterfly |
Hibernates inside hollow trees or outhouses until March. Eats sap or fruit juice until April. |
10 months in June-April |
|
Wild Flowers |
Large Skipper |
Butterfly |
Eats Nectar |
June-August |
Links to the other Butterflies:- Black Hairstreak |
Topic - Wildlife on Plant Photo Gallery. Some UK native butterflies eat material from UK Native Wildflowers and live on them as eggs, caterpillars (Large Skipper eats False Brome grass - Brachypodium sylvaticum - for 11 months from July to May as a Caterpillar before becoming a Chrysalis within 3 weeks in May) chrysalis or butterflies ALL YEAR ROUND. |
Wild Flower Family Page (the families within "The Pocket Guide to Wild Flowers" by David McClintock & R.S.R. Fitter, Published in 1956 They are not in Common Name alphabetical order and neither are the common names of the plants detailed within each family. The information in the above book is back-referenced to the respective page in "Flora of the British Isles" by A.R. Clapham of University of Sheffield, |
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When you look at the life history graphs of each of the 68 butterflies of Britain, you will see that they use plants throughout all 12 months - the information of what plant is used by the egg, caterpillar, chrysalis or butterfly is also given in the above first column.
THE LIFE AND DEATH OF A FLAILED CORNISH HEDGE - This details that life and death from July 1972 to 2019, with the following result:- End note, June 2008. I hear spring vetch has been officially recorded somewhere in West Cornwall and confirmed as a presence in the county, so perhaps I can be permitted to have seen it pre-1972 in the survey mile. I wonder where they found it? It's gone from hedges where it used to be, along with other scarcities and so-called scarcities that used to flourish in so many hedges unrecorded, before the flail arrived. I have given careful thought to including mention of some of the plants and butterflies. So little seems to be known of the species resident in Cornish hedges pre-flail that I realise some references may invite scepticism. I am a sceptic myself, so sympathise with the reaction; but I have concluded that, with a view to re-establishing vulnerable species, it needs to be known that they can with the right management safely and perpetually thrive in ordinary Cornish hedges. In future this knowledge could solve the increasingly difficult question of sufficient and suitable sites for sustainable wild flower and butterfly conservation - as long as it is a future in which the hedge-flail does not figure.
CHECK-LIST OF TYPES OF CORNISH HEDGE FLORA by Sarah Carter of Cornish Hedges Library:-
Titles of papers available on www.cornishhedges.co.uk:-
THE GUILD OF CORNISH HEDGERS is the non-profit-making organisation founded in 2002 to support the concern among traditional hedgers about poor standards of workmanship in Cornish hedging today. The Guild has raised public awareness of Cornwall's unique heritage of hedges and promoted free access to the Cornish Hedges Library, the only existing source of full and reliable written knowledge on Cornish hedges." |
UK Wildflower botanical name index in Botanical Names. Recommended Plants for Wildlife in different situations:- |
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The following Container Gardening for Wildlife is from Appendix 1 of The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN
"It is quite possible to entice wildlife into even the most unpromising paved areas by utilising containers. Several mini-habitats can be created by growing a carefully selected range of trees, shrubs and flowers in pots, tubs, window boxes and hanging baskets. |
DON'T FORGET HERBS Herbs are amongst the most useful wildlife plants, including borage, mint, chives and rosemary, and are ideally suited to container growing. Do allow them to flower though, even at the expense of a continuous supply of leaves for cooking.
FOUR-SEASON WINDOW BOX Try planting a window box with the following selection of evergreens, perennials, bulbs and bedding plants, for an all-the-year-round display. WINTER SPRING SUMMER AUTUMN
APPENDIX 2 has a Traditional Wildlife Garden Plan and a Garden Plan for Urban Wildlife. |
STEP-BY-STEP CONTAINER PLANTING Make sure the container has adequate drainage holes and that they are free of obstruction. Put a layer of broken clay pots or crockery over the base of the container. Half-fill with a multi-purpose potting compost. Place the plants in position and fill around the root ball with more compost. Press down firmly. Water well and add more compost if necessary, to bring the level up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) below the rim of the container. Use the self-watering containers and potting mix detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page rather the the pots or multi-purpose potting compost detailed above. Provide an outside water tap and watering can, so that you can irrigate the pots without traipsing the can through the house.
NOTE |
RECOMMENDED PLANTS TREES Willow (Salix caprea 'Pendula') Weeping form (120 inches (300 cms)). Catkins for insects, young leaves for caterpillars. SHRUBS Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus' (120 inches (300 cms)) Berries and flowers. Hawthorn (Craaegus monogyna) (180 inches (500 cms)) can be pruned hard to keep it within bounds. Secure nesting sites for birds. Berries and flowers. Holly (Ilex aquifolium) (to 180 inches (500 cms)) a male and female bush are needed to be sure of berries. Nesting cover for birds. Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia) Scented and attracts bees, flowers. ---> |
CLIMBERS Ivy (Hedera helix) All-year-round wall and fence cover. Has nectar and flowers. FLOWERS FOR NECTAR
PLAN OF A SMALL ENCLOSED PATIO WITH CONTAINERS |
The following Growing Marsh Plants in Containers is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN Where space is limited, or simply as an alternative to conventional patio plants, it is possible to grow moisture-loving species in pots and tubs. The container needs to retain water - a terracotta pot which has a porouus structure would not be suitable, but a glazed ceramic pot would work well. Plastic pots can also be used - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page. Choose a pot at least 12 (30) deep and 16 (40) across. The best way to ensure the compost stays wet is to stand the whole pot in a substantial tray of water, so that the marsh can draw up moisture as it is needed (there is a water reservoir in the self-watering pots detailed above). Ordinary plant saucers will not hold enough water, and something deeper like a large kitchen roasting tin, which may not look so elegant, will do the job more effectively. |
MOISTURE-LOVING NATIVE PLANTS |
Height
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Flower Colour |
Flowering Time |
Bog Bean (Menyanthes trifoliata) / |
10 (25) |
White |
Mid-Summer |
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Globe Flower |
24 (60) |
Yellow |
Early Summer |
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Oxlip |
6 (15) |
Pale Yellow |
Late spring |
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Primrose |
4 (10) |
Pale Yellow |
Mid-spring |
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Purple Loosestrife |
36 (90) |
Pink-purple |
Summer |
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Ragged Robin |
24 (60) |
Pink |
Summer |
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Sweet Flag |
24 (60) |
Green |
Mid-summer |
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Bog Arum Naturalised in places in Britain |
6 (15) |
Yellow-green |
Summer |
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Hemp Agrimony |
48 (120) |
Reddish-pink |
Late summer |
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Lady's Smock |
9 (23) |
Pale pink |
Spring |
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Marsh Betony |
12 (30) |
Purple |
Summer |
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Marsh Cinquefoil |
9 (23) |
Dark red |
Summer |
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Marsh St John's Wort |
6 (15) |
Pale yellow |
Summer |
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Meadowsweet |
36 (90) |
Creamy-white |
Summer |
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The following Planning a Herb Bed or Garden is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE PREPARING THE SITE If the soil is not ideal (heavy clay for instance), it is possible to add some coarse grit to aid drainage. However, it might be smpler and more productive to grow the herbs in pots - like the self-watering containers detailed in the Vegetable Gallery Site Map Page, putting in a good layer of gravel before adding the compost. The ground should be dug thoroughly, removing any weeds ---> |
and large stones. Lay brick paths, edging tiles or wooden dividers before planting the herbs. HERBS FOR LESS-THAN-IDEAL CONDITIONS Mint (Mentha) can tolerate shade although it does tend to grow towards the light and become crooked and leggy. Tansy (Tanecetum vulgare) is an excellent native plant for butterflies and it is not too fussy about growing conditions. Lovage (Levisticum officinale), a relative of the fennel, is also worth growing for its young leaves which add a celery flavour to soups and stews. It will grow quite adequately in a dark, damp spot and the flowers produced, although not as abundant as they should be, will provide nectar for hoverflies, wasps and bees. Comfrey (Symphytum x uplandicum) should be included purely for its leaves which are a reliable food source for moth and butterfly caterpillars. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is another strong grower in less than ideal conditions. Its white or pale yellow flowers rely on bees for their pollination. ---> |
Garden chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb, greatly prized for the flavour of its parsley-like leaves. It will tolerate some shade, but prefers a well-drained soil. Great burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis) is a tall native herb that prefers a damp habitat and a heavy clay soil. The tiny crimson flowers appear from mid-summer to early autumn. Angelica (Angelica archangelica), originally from central Europe, is widely naturalised in Britain. It will do well in a shady spot in damp soil and has huge seedheads in early autumn. PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE CALENDAR Autumn - Plant shrubs and pot-grown perennials Spring - Sow seeds of annuals Late Spring - Sow seeds of biennials Summer - Keep beds free of weeds; water container plants. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3 Instead of snipping off the flowers as they appear, leave a few plants of parsley, mint, marjoram and lemon balm to flower naturally. Many more insects will visit the plants and consequently the herb garden will be a richer feeding ground for birds. |
TOP HERBS FOR WILDLIFE Borage (borago officinalis) Chives (Allium schoenoprasum) Comfrey (Symphytum uplandicum) Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare0 Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis) Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Marjoram (Origanum vulgare) Mint (Mentha - all types) Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) Thyme (Thymus - all types) |
The following Recommended Bulbs is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN RECOMMENDED BULBS Crocus (Purple) (Crocus tomasinianus) Crocus (Yellow) (Crocus chrysanthus) Grape Hyacinth (Muscari neglectum) Ramsons Garlic (Allium ursinum) Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) Wild Daffodil (Narcissus pseudonarcissus) Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis) |
The following Incorporating Wildfflowers into an existing lawn is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN INCORPORATING WILDFLOWERS INTO AN EXISTING LAWN SOWING WILDFLOWER SEED INTO AN EXISTING LAWN ADDING POT-GROWN WILDFLOWERS TO AN EXISTING LAWN |
TYPICAL MEADOW MIXTURE SPRING-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS SUMMER-FLOWERING MEADOW PERENNIALS
Lindum Turf sell wildflower Mats for your new wildflower lawn instead of part of your old lawn as or |
The following Establishing a 'No Go' Area is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN It is important to nominate a part of the garden as a 'no-go' area for humans, which can be left deliberately untidy. Usually this is some spot well away from the house and preferably shielded by shrubs or trees, but it might equally be behind a garden shed or garage.
THE WOODPILE The first wildlife to inhabit the pile will probably be fungi in the early autumn, but in time it will become home to spiders, beetles, wood wasps, solitary bees, slugs and snails. These will then attract bird predators, particularly wrens and blackbirds, who will pick over the pile in search of a meal. The insects will also provide food for wood mice, voles and hedgehogs. First-year newts, after leaving the pond, may well spend large amounts of time in the damp shelter of a log pile. ----> |
GROWING NETTLES FOR BUTTERFLIES As the emerging caterpillars prefer fresh, new leaves to feed on, it is a good idea to cut back half the patch in early or mid-summer to encourage new growth. This is particularly important for commas and small tortoiseshells who regularly have 2 broods a year - the first in the spring, the second in mid-summer. The adults will seek out the new shoots to lay their eggs. Nettles can be introduced into the garden if they are not growing naturally. In late winter, dig up some roots about 4 (10) long which are bearing yound shoots. Bury the roots in pots of garden soil and keep cutting back the shoots to 3 (7.5). By late spring the new plants can be put out into the untidy area. The life-cycle of many butterflies extends over much of the year, so if you can put the plants that are used in its 4 stages in that untidy area, then it is more likely that you will see the butterfly, since YOU WILL NEVER BE TIDYING UP THAT NO-GO AREA. ----> |
LEAF PILES AND HEDGEHOG HABITATS Use an upturned wooden box (untreated wood) and cut an entrance out of one of the side panels, 4-5 (10-12) square. This is large enough to allow the hedgehog to enter but small enough to prevent dogs or foxes getting in. A covered entrance tunnel can also be constructed using 2 rows of house bricks stood on their sides and a plank of wood. This helps to keep the interior of the box dry, but is not essential. Cover the box with a sheet of polythene to keep out the rain, and a mound of dry leaves or brushwood to disguise the exterior. Add a handful of straw or dry leaves as bedding. HABITAT BOOSTERS |
The following Planting in Gravel and Paving is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN Many plants enjoy the dry growing conditions and refected warmth of gravel, stone chippings or paving. It is relatively easy to incorporate native species into existing paving schemes or to lay areas of gravel. MAKING A GRAVEL BED Cover the area with a layer of sand 1 (2.5) deep. Finish the bed with a 1 (2.5) layer of gravel or 0.25 (0.5) stone chippings. Water plants well before removing them from their pots. Use a narrow trowel to make holes the same size as the root ball and firm them in gently. Water new plants thoroughly and sprinkle more gravel over the surface if necessary |
PLANTING IN PAVING The simplest way is to take up some of the stones, perhaps create a chequeboard effect. This is better done in a random pattern, rather than taking out every other stone. The earth beneath the stones shuld be workable and weed-free. Dig out the earth to a depth of 6-9 (15-23) and mix with an equal quantity of gravel or stone chippings. Replace the soil mixture and plant in the normal way. Brick paths or patios can be planted in the same way. Take out any bricks that are already damaged or crumbling and fill the gaps as above. |
PLANTS FOR PAVING AND GRAVEL Broom Common Toadflax Globe Thistle Great Mullein Hawkweed Lady's Bedstraw Maiden Pink Thyme Trailing St John's Wort White Campion Yarrow |
The following Constructing a Rock Bank is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN If the garden has no manmade rock garden or natural outcrops of rock for planting, it is possible to make a rock bank to provide a useful wildlife habitat. This is a simple construction and far less costly than a full-scale rock garden. Stack the stones randomly to form a double-sided wall to the desired height and length. Between each layer of stones, add a mixture of stone chippings or gravel and loam potting compost (this makes a good growing medium for rock plants, but if not available any poor, stony garden soil can be substituted). There are better soil mixtures detailed for many rock garden plants in Colour Wheel Rock Gallery. Leave some gaps between the stones without any soil, to allow access to the interior for small mammals and creatures. Lay more stones or rocks across the top of the structure to form a 'lid'. The planting pockets can be planted with any of the rock or wall plants listed in the next column and the column below it. |
RECOMMENDED PLANTS FOR ROCK BANKS AND GARDENS Common Pink Hairy Thyme Harebell Hebe 'Autumn Glory' Hebe 'Carl Teschner' Herb Robert Ling (Heather) Purple Saxifrage Rock Rose Spring Gentian |
The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN Different types of hedges were planted for different purposes: a double hedge would mark an important boundary whilst a hedge designed to contain livestock would be particularly impenetrable at the base. Almost incidentally they became shelters and pathways for wildlife, harbouring birds, mammals and insects. In the garden, a hedge of native species can serve both as a wildlife provider and as an effective division between neighbouring plots. CHOOSING THE SPECIES |
TREES/SHRUBS SUITABLE FOR HEDGING Alder Buckthorn Beech Blackthorn Crab Apple Dog Rose Elm Field Maple Hawthorn Hazel Holly Wild Privet Yew |
HOW TO PLANT A HEDGE Choose two-year-old seedlings, which are large enough to handle, but should not need staking. Mark out the length of the hedge with canes and string. It does not have to be a straight line, a curving hedge works just as well. Dig a trench in front of the line, 24 (60) wide and 18 (45) deep, running the entire length of the proposed hedge. Remove weed roots and large stones whilst digging. Add a layer of organic matter (garden compost or well-rotted manure) and mix with the loose soil at the bottom of the trench. Set the plants, 12-18 (30-45) apart and at the same depth as they were in the nursery (shown by the soil mark on the stem), adding more soil to the bottom of the trench, if necessary, to ensure the plant will sit at the right depth. Holding the plant upright, fill around the roots with loose soil, until it reaches the soil mark, firming it down well. IMMEDIATE AFTERCARE Water the new plants thoroughly, making sure the water soaks down around the roots. Cut back the top and side growths by at least one third - this will encourage side branching and bushy growth. |
WILDLIFE USES FOR HEDGING Caterpillars of brimstone butterflies feed on alder buckthorn. Blackthorn, hawthorn, hazel and privet provide nectar for many species of butterfly. Thrushes, dunnocks, garden warblers and finches use the hedgerow for nesting Hedgehogs, voles and woodmice shelter and feed in the hedge bottom. Hawthorn, blackthorn and holly provide berries for birds in winter |
FLOWERING WALL PLANTS Hoary Cinquefoil Houseleek Ivy-leaved Toadflax London Pride Red Valerian Round-leaved Cranesbill Stonecrops Wallflower Wall Rocket Arabis Yellow Corydalis |
The following Planting a Native Hedge is from The Wildlife Garden Month-by-Month by Jackie Bennett. Published by David & Charles in 1993. ISBN MAINTENANCE Each spring, whilst the hedge is still forming, prune the top and side shoots by one third. Do not leave the central stem to grow to the desired height of the hedge before cutting back. Regular pruning will ensure that by the time the hedge does reach its final height, it will have developed a strong, dense framework It is a good idea to apply a mulch of garden compost, leaf mould or chopped bark around the plants each spring (if you have trees growing besides the public road on its verge, then in the autumn when its leaves fall to the ground below, you can use your rotary mower to mow them up and put them as a mulch in the the hedge bottom.). This will discourage weeds (which may strangle the young hedge) and form a good environment for hedgerow plants and microscopic creatures. Adas Colour Atlas of Weed Seedlings by J.B Williams and J.R. Morrison provides photos to the 40 most common weeds afflicting gardens and arable farm land. ISBN 0-7234-0929-3 |
CLIPPING The main difference between conventional hedge care and those managed for wildlife is in the clipping. Wildlife hedges should never be clipped before nesting is completely finished; usually it is safe to do so in late summer or early autumn, but in doubt, leave until the winter. WILDLIFE TO EXPECT Blackbirds, thrushes, dunnocks, sparrows, greenfinches and bullfinches all prefer the dense, protected growth of a hedge to any other nesting site. They will be joined in the summer, by shy, ground-feeding wrens, who search the leaf litter beneath the hedge for spiders and other insects. Many other garden birds like tits and robins will use the hedge simply as a convenient perch, for picking off caterpillars from the leafy growth. The hedge foliage is a particularly good breeding ground for moths such as the privet hawkmoth, garden spiders who leave their mark in the shape of finely woven webs and the often heard, but rarely seen, bush cricket. At ground level, the wildlife residents are most likely to be hedgehogs, wood mice and bank voles, although toads and frogs often hide in the shelter of a hedge bottom. In time a native hedge will become a busy wildlife corridor offering shelter, food and a convenient route from one part of the garden to another |
HEDGEROW FLOWERS Although the soil at the base of the hedge may be poor, a surprising number of wildflowers seem to thrive here. The orientation of the hedge will determine which flowers may be grown. South-facing hedges receive a good deal of sun whilst north faces may be in almost complete shade. Choose a selection of plants to suit the position of your hedge. |
RECOMMENDED NATIVE HEDGEROW FLOWERS Plant - Betony (Stachys officinalis) Bluebell Common Dog Violet Garlic Mustard Greater Stitchwort Hedge Wounwort Hedgerow Cranesbill Lesser Celandine |
Primrose Red Campion Selfheal Sweet Cicely White Deadnettle |
The Bumblebee Pages website is divided into five major areas:
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Plants for moths (including larval food plants and adult nectar sources) from Gardens for Wildlife - Practical advice on how to attract wildlife to your garden by Martin Walters as an Aura Garden Guide. Published in 2007 - ISBN 978 1905765041:- |
Marjoram - Origanum officinale |
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Wildlife-friendly Show Gardens
Many of our gardens at Natural Surroundings demonstrate what you can do at home to encourage wildlife in your garden:-
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The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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<---- |
Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
1 (o) |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |