Ivydene Gardens Stage 3b - All2 Plants Index Gallery: |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY
Cultivation Requirements of Plant |
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Outdoor / Garden Cultivation |
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Indoor / House Cultivation |
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Cool Greenhouse (and Alpine House) Cultivation with artificial heating in the Winter |
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Conservatory Cultivation with heating throughout the year |
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Stovehouse Cultivation with heating throughout the year for Tropical Plants |
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Sun Aspect |
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Soil Type |
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Soil Moisture |
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Position for Plant |
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Ground Cover 0-24 inches (0-60 cms) |
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Ground Cover 24-72 inches (60-180 cms) |
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Ground Cover Over 72 inches (180 cms) |
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1, 2, |
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Use of Plant |
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STAGE 4D Plant Foliage |
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Flower Shape |
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Number of Flower Petals |
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Flower Shape - Simple |
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Flower Shape - Elaborated |
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Natural Arrangements |
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STAGE 4D |
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Form |
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STAGE 1
Fragrant Plants adds the use of another of your 5 senses in your garden:- |
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STAGE 2 Fan-trained Shape From Rhododendrons, boxwood, azaleas, clematis, novelties, bay trees, hardy plants, evergreens : novelties bulbs, cannas novelties, palms, araucarias, ferns, vines, orchids, flowering shrubs, ornamental grasses and trees book, via Wikimedia Commons |
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Ramblers Scramblers & Twiners by Michael Jefferson-Brown (ISBN 0 - 7153 - 0942 - 0) describes how to choose, plant and nurture over 500 high-performance climbing plants and wall shrubs, so that more can be made of your garden if you think not just laterally on the ground but use the vertical support structures including the house as well. The Gardener's Illustrated Encyclopedia of Climbers & Wall Shrubs - A Guide to more than 2000 varieties including Roses, Clematis and Fruit Trees by Brian Davis. (ISBN 0-670-82929-3) provides the lists for 'Choosing the right Shrub or Climber' together with Average Height and Spread after 5 years, 10 years and 20 years. |
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STAGE 2
The Book of Bulbs by S. Arnott, F.R.H.S. Printed by |
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STAGE 4D Trees and Shrubs suitable for Clay Soils (neutral to slightly acid) Trees and Shrubs suitable for Dry Acid Soils Trees and Shrubs suitable for Shallow Soil over Chalk Trees and Shrubs tolerant of both extreme Acidity and Alkalinity Trees and Shrubs suitable for Damp Sites Trees and Shrubs suitable for Industrial Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Cold Exposed Areas Trees and Shrubs suitable for Seaside Areas Shrubs suitable for Heavy Shade Shrubs and Climbers suitable for NORTH- and EAST-facing Walls Shrubs suitable for Ground Cover Trees and Shrubs of Upright or Fastigiate Habit Trees and Shrubs with Ornamental Bark or Twigs Trees and Shrubs with Bold Foliage Trees and Shrubs for Autumn Colour Trees and Shrubs with Red or Purple Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Golden or Yellow Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Grey or Silver Foliage Trees and Shrubs with Variegated Foliage Trees and Shrubs bearing Ornamental Fruit Trees and Shrubs with Fragrant or Scented Flowers Trees and Shrubs with Aromatic Foliage Flowering Trees and Shrubs for Every Month:- |
STAGE 3b |
STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY PAGES Links to pages in Table alongside on the left with Garden Design Topic Pages |
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Plant Type |
STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 with its Cultivation Requirements |
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Alpines for Rock Garden (See Rock Garden Plant Flowers) |
Alpines and Walls |
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Aquatic |
Water-side Plants |
Wildlife Pond Plants |
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Annual for ----------------
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Cut Flowers |
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Scent / Fra-grance with Annuals for Cool or Shady Places from 1916 |
Low-allergen Gardens for Hay Fever Sufferers |
Annual Plant Pairing Ideas and Colour Schemes with Annuals |
Medium-Growing Annuals |
Tall-Growing Annuals with White Flowers from 1916 |
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Black or Brown Flowers |
Blue to Purple Flowers |
Green Flowers with Annuals and Biennials from 1916 |
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Vining Annuals |
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Bedding for |
Bedding for Light Sandy Soil |
Bedding for Acid Soil |
Bedding for Chalky Soil |
Bedding for Clay Soil |
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Attract-ive to Wildlife including Bees, Butterflies and Moths |
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Bedding Plant Use |
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Use in Hanging Baskets |
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Flower Simple Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Use in Pots and Troughs |
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Flower Elabo-rated Shape |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in |
Use in |
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Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
Shape of |
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Use in Bedding Out |
Use in |
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Biennial for |
Patio Con-tainers with Biennials for Pots in Green-house / Con-servatory |
Bene-ficial to Wildlife with Purple and Blue Flowers from 1916 |
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Bulb for |
Indoor Bulbs for Sep-tember |
Bulbs in Window-boxes |
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Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type (some grown in Cool Green-house) Bloom-ing in |
Any Plant Type Blooming in Smallest of Gardens |
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Bulbs in Green-house or Stove |
Achi-menes, Alocasias, Amorpho-phalluses, Aris-aemas, Arums, Begonias, Bomar-eas, Calad-iums |
Clivias, |
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Hardy Bulbs
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Amaryllis, Antheri-cum, Antholy-zas, Apios, Arisaema, Arum, Aspho-deline, |
Cyclamen, Dicentra, Dierama, Eranthis, Eremurus, Ery-thrnium, Eucomis |
Fritillaria, Funkia, Gal-anthus, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hemero-callis |
Hya-cinth, Hya-cinths in Pots, |
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Lilium in Pots, Malvastrum, Merendera, Milla, Narcissus, Narcissi in Pots |
Half-Hardy Bulbs |
Gladioli, Ixias, |
Plant each Bedding Plant with a Ground, Edging or Dot Plant for |
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Climber 3 sector Vertical Plant System with
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1b. |
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2b. |
3a. |
3c. |
Raised |
Plants for Wildlife-Use as well |
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Least prot-ruding growth when fan-trained |
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Needs Conserv-atory or Green-house |
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Climber - Simple Flower Shape |
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Climber - Elabo-rated Flower Shape |
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DISCLAIMER: Links to external sites are provided as a courtesy to visitors. Ivydene Horticultural Services are not responsible for the content and/or quality of external web sites linked from this site. |
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Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders - was first published in 1977 and this paperback edition was published on 1 August 1994 ISBN 0 7090 5440 8:- |
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I am using the above book from someone who took 30 years to compile it from notes made of his detailed observations of growing plants in preference to |
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The Propagation of Alpines by Lawrence D. Hills. Published in 1950 by Faber and Faber Limited describes every method of propagation for 2,500 species. Unlike modern books published since 1980, this one states exactly what to do and is precisely what you require if you want to increase your alpines. |
Ivydene Gardens Stage 3b - All2 Plants Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
Flowering Seasons |
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5-petalled, yellow-eyed, single flower atop a stem, White aging to pink; occasionally Pink |
May-Jun Suitable for Rock Garden, |
2 x 4 Mat-forming |
Dark Green
Use soak-up system watering in summer. |
Rocky and lime or See 20 photos of this plant. Other Androsaces in Evergreen Perennials and Alpines |
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Arenaria purpurascens |
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Arenaria tetraquetra |
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Asperula suberosa |
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Campanula arvatica |
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Campanula pusilla |
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Campanilla pusilla alba |
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Campanula Zoysii |
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Dianthus alpinus |
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Dianthus arvernensis |
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Dianthus glacialis |
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Dianthus haematocalyx |
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Douglasia laevigata |
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Douglasia Vitaliana |
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Calluna vulgaris 'J.H. Hamilton' Calluna vulgaris 'H.E. Beale' |
Purple-pink Full Sun |
Wrightman Alpines Nursery in Canada |
6 x 12 Mound-forming, Ground cover, in clumps on Rock garden, edging and rest of border. A neat, dense, compact plant. Alpine trough. |
Bright Green Lime-free soil, enriched with peat or leaf-mould. Needs good drainage Heathers are tough little guys, and they make excellent companion plants for rhodo-dendrons and Brooms. |
Sh E Acid, Peat, Sand
ALL PLANTS
There are many Calluna in Shrub Calluna B Gallery |
Erigeron uniflorus |
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Erinus |
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Erodium Reichardii roseum |
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Erythrea diffusa |
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Fuchsia pumila |
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Genista pulchella |
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Helianthemum alpestre |
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Iris lacustris |
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Iris mellita |
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Laurentia tenella |
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Linaria globosa rosea |
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Micromeria Piperella |
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Morisia hypogaea |
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Phlox Douglasii |
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Pimelia coarctata |
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Potentilla nitida |
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Potentilla verna nana |
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Rhododendron radicans |
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Rosa 'Oakington Ruby' |
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Rosa pumila |
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Saxifraga Aizoon varieties |
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Saxifraga primulaize |
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Sedum brevifolium |
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Sedum hispanicum |
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Sedum hispanicum minus |
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Silene acaulis |
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Silene acaulis exscapa |
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Thlaspi rotundifolium |
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Townsendia Wilcoxiana |
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Viola hederacea |
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Wahlenbergia serpyllifolia |
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Wahlenbergia tasmanica |
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Ivydene Gardens Stage 3b - All2 Plants Index Gallery: |
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Botanical Plant Name with link to |
Flower Colour Sun Aspect of Full Sun, with link to external website for photo/data |
Flowering Months with link to |
Height with Spacings or Width (W) in inches (cms) 1 inch = |
Foliage Colour followed by with link to Australia or New Zealand mail-order supplier
with data for rows in |
Plant Type is:-
followed by:-
with links to |
Links to the 15 pages of Pan, Trough and Window-box Odds and Sods Section
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The following table shows the linkages for the information about the plants
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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Private Garden Design:- |
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<---- |
Yes |
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No |
Cannot be bothered. |
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At Home with Gard-ening Area |
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Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
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Grow flowers for flower arranging and vegetables on Balcony Garden or Roof Garden |
Pan Plant Back-grou-nd Colour |
STAGE 3b |
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Outside Garden |
Pan, Trough and Window-Box Odds and Sods |
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Kinds of Pan Plants that may be split up and tucked in Corners and Crevices |
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Trough and Window-box plants 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 |
Pan Plant |
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You need to know the following:- |
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A) Bee Pollinated Plants for Hay Fever Sufferers List leads onto the |
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Human Prob-lems |
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Blind, |
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Garden Style, which takes into account the Human Problems above |
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Classic Mixed Style |
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Cottage Garden Style |
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Naturalistic Style |
Formal English Garden |
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Mediterranean Style |
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Meadow and Corn-field |
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Paving and Gravel inland, |
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Problem Sites within your chosen Garden Style from the above |
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Exce-ssively Hot, Sunny and Dry Site is suitable for Drought Resistant Plants |
Excessively Wet Soil - especially when caused by poor drainage |
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Control of Pests (Aphids, Rabbits, Deer, Mice, Mole, Snails) / Disease by Companion Planting in Garden |
Whether your Heavy Clay or Light Sandy / Chalk Soil is excessively Alkaline (limy) / Acidic or not, then there is an Action Plan for you to do with your soil, which will improve its texture to make its structure into a productive soil instead of it returning to being just sand, chalk, silt or clay. |
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Problems caused by builders:- 1. Lack of soil on top of builders rubble in garden of just built house. |
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In planning your beds for your garden, before the vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman planting is inserted into your soft landscaping plan, the following is useful to consider:- |
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Reasons for stopping infilling of Sense of Fragrance section on 28/07/2016 at end of Sense of Fragrance from Stephen Lacey Page. From September 2017 will be creating the following new pages on Sense of Fragrance using Scented Flora of the World by Roy Genders. |
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After you have selected your vertical hard-landscaping framework and the vertical speciman plants for each bed or border, you will need to infill with plants taking the following into account:- |
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Sense of Fragrance from Roy Genders Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Flower Perfume Group:- |
Leaf Perfume Group:- |
Scent of Wood, Bark and Roots Group:-
Scent of Fungi Group:- |
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Sense of Sight |
Emotion of |
Emotion of |
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Emotion of |
Emotion of Intellectual versus Emotional |
Sense of Touch |
Sense of Taste |
Sense of Sound |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 for |
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STAGE 3a ALL , 3 AND 4 PLANTS INDEX GALLERIES with pages of content (o) |
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Plant Type |
ABC |
DEF |
GHI |
JKL |
MNO |
PQR |
STU |
VWX |
YZ |
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Alpine in Evergreen Perennial, |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Annual/ Biennial |
1 (o) |
1 (o) |
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Bedding, 25 |
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Bulb, 746 with Use, Flower Colour/Shape of |
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Climber 71 Clematis, 58 other Climbers with Use, Flower Colour and Shape |
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1 (o) |
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Deciduous Shrub 43 with Use and Flower Colour |
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Evergreen Perennial 104 with Use, Flower Colour, Flower Shape and Number of Petals |
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Evergreen Shrub 46, Semi-Evergreen Shrub and Heather 74 with Use and Flower Colour |
1 (o) |
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Fern with 706 ferns |
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Herbaceous Perennial 91, |
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Rose with 720 roses within Flower Colour, Flower Shape, Rose Petal Count and Rose Use |
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Sub-Shrub |
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Wildflower 1918 with |
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Finally, you might be advised to check that the adjacent plants to the one you have chosen for that position in a flower bed are suitable; by checking the entry in Companion Planting - like clicking A page for checking Abies - and Pest Control page if you have a pest to control in this part of the flower bed. |
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STAGE 1 GARDEN STYLE INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 2 INFILL PLANT INDEX GALLERIES 1, 2, 3 Reference books for these galleries in Table on left |
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STAGE 3a ALL PLANTS INDEX GALLERY |
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STAGE 4C CULTIVATION, POSITION, USE GALLERY |
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Since 2006, I have requested photos etc from the Mail-Order Nurseries in the UK and later from the rest of the World. Few nurseries have responded.
with the aid of further information from other books, magazines and cross-checking on the internet. |
Copied from January Blooms Page in Colour Rock Photos Gallery |
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PAGES FOR PHOTOS OF ROCK GARDEN PLANTS WHO DO NOT HAVE THEIR OWN PLANT DESCRIPTION PAGE Small size plant in Flower Colours FLOWERING IN MONTH Dark Tone or Shades |
ROCK GARDEN PLANT INDEX
LISTS OF PLANTS SUITABLE FOR VARIOUS SITUATIONS AND PURPOSES:- Early Bloom in the Rock Garden. Summer Bloom in the Rock Garden. Late Bloom in the Rock Garden. Rock plants of Creeping and Trailing Habit. Rock plants with Evergreen Foliage. Rock Plants with Silvery or Variegated Foliage. Rock plants needing the protection of Sheet of Glass in Winter. |
LISTS OF PLANTS SUITABLE FOR VARIOUS SITUATIONS AND PURPOSES:- THE WALL GARDEN - Plants for sunny sites in the Wall Garden. Plants for Shady Sites in the Wall Garden. Plants for a Dry Site on a Wall. Plants for a Moderately Dry Site on a Wall. Plants for a Moist Site on a Wall. Plants for Positions on Top of Walls. Plants to Hang Down from the Upper Parts of a Wall.
DETAILS OF PLANTS IN LISTS FOR THE ROCK, WALL, PAVED, WATER AND BOG GARDENS Some Good Rock Plants with Some on Moraine Plants for the Miniature Rock Garden with some Bulbs Moisture-loving Trees and Shrubs for Bog or Water Garden |
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Rock Plant Colour Wheel - Flowers Link Map Click on Number in Colour Wheel or Black sections below:- |
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Some abbreviations have been used in compiling the list of Rock Plants for small gardens in order to make it possible to provide all the required information at a glance in a condensed form within the Rock Garden Plant Index Pages. |
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Name |
First is the name of the genus to which the plant belongs which is given in capitals. Under the generic name the names of the species and varieties are recorded. Link to photos, cultivation details or mail-order business that sells it. Link in *** to Rock Garden Colour Wheel Page with photo of the plant at bottom of page. |
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Suitability |
Details of which container to grow the plant in:-
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Type |
Abbreviated to:-
followed by
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Height and Spread |
The approximate height is given first in inches, followed by the approximate spread, when mature. 1 inch (") = 25.4 millimetres (mm) |
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Soil |
The figures A, B, C and D denote that the plant in question requires one of the following soil mixtures:-
which may be followed by Where no additional letter is given, the plant will thrive under either condition. |
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Position and Protection |
The following terms and abbreviations used singly or in combination will minimize the risk of planting in an unsuitable spot:-
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Flower Colour, Nearest Colour Wheel - Flowers Colour and Months of Flowering |
These 3 columns are self-explanatory;
A double entry such as |
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Propagation |
A general idea to the best method of increasing the stock:-
may be followed by
A combination of the above will denote that the plant can be increased by all the methods which those abbreviated letters stand for. |
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The Moraine or Scree Garden - Many of the alpines will not prosper in the ordinary rock garden. They require that the natural conditions under which they live in the wild state shall be copied as nearly as possible in the rock garden. The plants to which we refer grow on mountain slopes covered with loose stones, where the melting of the snow during summer provides them with plenty of ice-cold water and where a blanket of snow protects them during the winter. The conditions we must endeavour to reproduce are, therefore: adequate moisture for the roots in summer while the plants are growing, but at the same time good drainage: Making the Moraine Protection of Plants in Winter |
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There are other pages on Plants which bloom in each month of the year in this website:-
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Copied from Ivydene Gardens Photos of Rock Garden Plants Suitable for Small Gardens: |
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I am taking photos of rock garden plants suitable for small gardens and if they do not have their own Plant Description Page in this website, then each photo of each plant will be located at the bottom of the relevant 1 of 52 Rockgarden Flower Colour Wheel pages. Usually a link in *** to that page will be included in the Name field of the respective Index Page. If there is more than 1 photo for that plant that I wish to display then, this Gallery will have photos of that plant in its page. |
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There are 256 plant photos in the following flower colour months in this Gallery:-
There are 35 plant description pages in this Gallery:-
The Site Map which links to all the |
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" Pans are used in preference to the wooden flats for raising alpine plants from seed and there are 3 reasons for their use:-
All pans must be scrupously clean for seed raising and these and all crocking materials are best washed in hot soapy water. Give these a good scrubbing with a pot brush to remove all dirt and stains. After this treatment a plunge into a strong solution of permanganate of potash, to act as a partial steriliser and a deterrent to formation of fungi, lichens, etc. The pans should then be placed on one side to dry, but do not allow them to become too dry, otherwise they will extract all the moisture from the seed compost. Wet pans must not be used for they will cause the soil to adhere to the sides. Thus when attempting to remove the seedlings it will be found that both the soil and roots of the seedlings have become attached to the pans and a subsequent loss of seedlings is likely to occur. New pans must not be used straight from the makers, for they will have been kiln fired and therefore need soaking for at least 24 hours before use. Then, these also must be partly dried after the potash of permanganate plunge. The preparation of the pans for raising plants from seed is simple. At the same time it is necessary to take care, for there is a possibility that they will have to remain in use for a long period. First of all a piece of perforated zinc should be placed over the vent of the pan. This is preferable to crocks which are often used, for the zinc will prevent the entry of undesirable pests such as woodlice, slugs, worms etc., from making a home in the drainage, to say nothing of the damage these will do to the young seedlings. After the piece of zinc, an inch of drainage material is put in. This can be of broken brick, chippings or the residue of Cornish sand after being riddled though a 1/16 inch sieve. On top of this a thin covering of peat roughage or flaked leaf-mould should be placed, just enough to prevent the seed compost from filtering down and blocking up the drainage. Lastly, the compost suited to the seed is used and the pan filled to within 0.5 inches of the top and made firm. It is essential that the soil around the sides of the pan be also firmed, otherwise there will be poor germination in this area. After completion of this firming process evenly over the surface, the seed pans should be placed in a container holding 2 inches (5 cms) of water and left there until the surface of the compost darkens, then the pans should be removed and all surplus water allowed to drain away." from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. |
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" No matter what type of material is to be used for cuttings, it must always be borne in mind that on no account must they be taken from flowering shoots. These will not strike, or if they do will rarely grow into first class plants. This is easily understood, for their natural aim is reproduction of the species and as nature's normal method in this matter is the production of seed; then all the available strength is diverted to the buds with this aim in view. The following are the 5 different kinds of cuttings from which new plants can be raised:- 1 - Green Cuttings These are best rooted in a closed sunny frame if at all possible, but a great deal of watering will be necessary for on no account must the compost be allowed to dry out. Many will root in a matter of days in a frame of this type. If rooted in a part shade frame, which requires less watering, from 1 to 2 weeks will suffice. Naturally everything depends on the season and type of weather experienced at the time the cuttings are taken, but in normal weather conditions May and early June are the best times. If spring is early, the date can be advanced a week or two, or retarded if spring is late or cold. All dates quoted are for the south of England, in the midlands an extra week's growth will be necessary, while in the north and Scotland up to 2 weeks. 2 - Half-ripened Cuttings 3 - Hardwood Cuttings 4 - Root Cuttings The plant is carefully removed from its pan and after taking away all drainage material, the roots are gently washed free of soil and then the thong-like roots, not less than the thickness of a pencil, are chosen for propagation. Only 1 or 2 can be taken if the plant is not to suffer unduly and these are cut into pieces 0.75 to 1 inch (2-2.5 cms) in length. Smaller sections should be avoided, as they will not root. The base of the cutting should be cut slightly on the slant so the propagator knows which is the base and which is the top when inserting the cuttings. Reversing the cuttings will almost certainly result in failure. They are not likely to strike unless placed in the rooting medium in the correct position. The pieces of root are best inserted in pans, the mixture being equal parts of leaf-mould and sharp sand. The top of the root cutting should be just above the surface of the compost. Another inch (2.5cms) of Cornish sand is placed over this and the compost is well watered. The pan is then plunged in a closed frame where fresh growth will soon take place. They should be allowed to grow on steadily for 6 weeks to 2 months keeping the soil just moist. The cuttings can then be treated as rooted cuttings and potted on in the appropriate mixture. April and May are the ideal months for taking this kind of cutting. 5 - Leaf Cuttings All chippings and loose soil should be removed from around the collar of the plant to be propagated. The leaf must then be held firmly, as near the base as possible, and given a sharp downward tug so that the whole leaf, complete with its short basal stalk, is removed. It is very important that the base of the stalk is intact for it is the point where the base was joined to the main stem of the parent plant that the embryo plant is contained. Although not strictly leaf cuttings, a plant that makes a thick fleshy main stem, such as some of the European primulas, Primula marginata and its varieties for instance, sometimes begin to rot at the apex of the stem, owing to water having lodged there. If the top is completely cut away back to a healthy stock, then all foliage removed, it will be found that at the junction where the foliage joined the stem; small fresh rosettes will appear. After a few weeks, but still while small, they can be removed and dibbled into rooting compost, where they will soon make sturdy young plants. For leaf cuttings a pan should be filled with equal parts of finely sifted leaf-mould and Cornish sand. The sand should be sifted through a 1/16 inch (2mm) sieve, well mixed with the leaf-mould and thoroughly moistened, and the whole made firm. The leaf cuttings are laid horizontally on the surface of the compost and the short basal stalk pressed into the mixture, making this firm so the leaf cannot move, for firmness is essential for rooting. This can be accomplished by using a piece of bent wire or, what I consider preferable, a small stone placed over the base of the leaf. Not only does the stone protect the base but also this vital part is kept moist and cool. The pan is then placed in the cutting frame which must be kept closed. Rooting actually takes place quickly, but new rosettes are generally slow to form. A careful watch must be maintained for as soon as these are discernible; the stone must be removed. After approximately 4 to 6 weeks the young plantlets will be ready to pot on in the suitable compost. " from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. . |
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" Pans A good supply of pans will be required for a really representative collection of alpines. I have always used half pots, not the so-called alpine pans, which in my opinion are too shallow for the cultivation of alpines. This is a personal preference but I have found that alpines, being naturally long rooting plants, require a deeper root run than is generally supposed. They also need good drainage, at least an inch (2.5 cms) of which has to be used, thus very little room is left for the growing compost if shallow pans are used. A number of the following sizes will meet most requirements, depending on the extent of the collection, but allowance should be made for plants that are naturally fast growing. Nothing is more annoying than to find that pans are not available when plants need repotting. This sometimes leads to putting off what is an important job, the health of the plants suffering in consequence. It is not only cheaper to purchase complete casts of the different sizes of pans, but also all pans in each individual cast will be of the same size, quite a labour saver when plunging plants.
The measurements are taken 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) down inside the rim. The following is Chris Garnons-Williams idea of the minimum depth for these pans for alpines:-
A number of square pans are useful and take up less room on the staging, besides being easier for packing if exhibiting, but the cost is much greater than that of the orthodox round pans. These square pans can be constructed at home quite cheaply, all that is required is a wooden former or formers, the size or sizes depending entirely on the purpose for which they will be needed. The small wooden bung is cut from a broom shank and is needed for the drainage hole. The following Fig 16 gives a good idea of the method and used in conjunction with these notes it will be possible to produce first class containers. A sheet of brown paper larger than the required size of the pan is laid on a flat surface and the wooden former is placed in the centre. A mix is made consisting of
all ingredients should be well mixed dry first and then a little water added until the whole is just moist. This is important for the cement is applied by hand, about 0.5 inches (1.25 cms) thick and just smoothed out with a trowel; if too wet the mix will not retain its shape. Cover with a damp sack or rags and leave for at least 9 days, when the complete pan can be gently eased out of the former, which can be used over and over again. Naturally if a selection of formers is made up, it is possible to build up a good collection of pans over a period of time. Another advantage is that knowing the size of the available space on the alpine house staging it will be possible to build the square pans to size so that the maximum number of plants can be accomodated. Another type of pan that is often used for growing the rarer high alpine plants, especially those with a long rooting system, is called the 'Long Tom'. This is at least twice the depth of the normal pans thus allowing the room needed for extra drainage material, required for this type of plant. Most gardeners will want to raise plants from seed as this method is very often the only way of obtaining plants from abroad. To do this seed pans will also be required. Shallow pans are quite suitable, approximately 3 inches (7.5 cms) in depth, irrespective of the size of pan. Pans are generally preferable to the old shallow wooden seed boxes which are used for raising annual bedding plants each year, which are not only perishable, lasting but a year or two, but also provide a congenial home for woodlice and other pests. A number of small pots used for cacti, 1.5 inches (3.75 cms) in diameter for the first potting up of seedlings will also be found useful. No new bisque-fired clay pan must be used before having soaked for at least 24 hours in water. It is surprising the amount they will absorb during this period, the reason being that every trace of moisture has been extracted during the oven firing process. Failure to do this will have disastrous results, for any moisture in the compost when used for potting up will be absorbed by the dry pan instead of by the plant. Cleanliness is essential when dealing with pans. It is the dirt adhering to the pan, especially at the base where the drainage goes that is the very thing you wish to avoid, and is only waiting the opportunity to infest what is otherwise clean compost. Here is the breeding home of nematodes, woodlice, slugs, etc. All pans should be scrubbed after use and before using for new plants. Warm water is best and add a soap powder. Special care should be taken that all dirt is removed from the base of the pan. A rinsing in clean cold water to which has been added a few crystals of potassium permanganate will complete the job. " from Collector's Alpines by Royton E. Heath published in 1964 by Collingridge Limited. |
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Further details on Seed Pans, Cuttings and Pans for Rock Garden Plants in the Flower Shape and Plant Use of |